Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

First: you want to decide if you're building parallel or not. With series you'll do that one-to-the-next system you seem to be describing. I would advise a parallel plan. That way your circuit should work even if parts upstream drop out. You should google so you can look at circuit diagrams, that sh...

I would encourage you not to try to use a system that hopes to balance without resistors. Theoretically it can be done, but your work will be much tougher. Just learn how to use resistors. All it requires is Ohm's Law and some extraordinarily cheap components.

As the other dude said, this is easy so long as you follow the logic, just re-order the LEDs in reverse. If you don't know how, you need to learn up or we really can't so much as tell you.

I'm about to embark on a set of warm white interior Federation lighting. I am betting on that, but give me a month or two and I should be able to demonstrate some effect... I hope...

When I went to buy a pin vise the stores I went to would not recognize the name, sadly. They did have them, but thought of them under a name I now no longer recall, sadly.

Thanks for the links. I'll be interested in seeing how this works out. At the moment I am likely to first use an Arduino in a Pegasus build, prepping the on/off color effects for the engine lights.

It's safe to say I await all the gory technical details of this project, the more the better.

I actually misplaced the instructions, so the link is useful for me as well. Hooray!

I am still too new to give much meaningful advice, but remember that you can baffle and frost if you need to tone light down, but finding yourself with too little light means waiting for more hardware to show up.

You reference the engine lights, but do you mean the lights for those windows are not lighting, or is it possible there is an obstruction? Did you do anything to clear a path from your LED lights to the outside of the saucer rim? Bearing in mind that it is partly blocked by the interior circumferent...

While I am a lights newbie myself, I can tell you that you want to assess the amount of light your LED will provide by its rating in millicandelas. That should be part of the specs you reviewed when purchasing. If not, go back and look. You will probably find that color impacts the millicandela outp...

That math works for the first two, but for the max package you have it showing as 10ea again.

The description doesn't seem to match between the count of LEDs overall and the count of quantities and types. What's up with that?

Sloucher, I've seen people talking about/using the Matrix solution for running many LEDs, but I haven't seen a lot on practical implementation. I've also heard that the Arduino solution is somewhat overbuilt and that it can be stripped down to the microcontroller proper pretty easily. Do folks have ...

Thanks for the response. From what I've seen it seems like Arduino's can pass wall wart 9v current along as well as the onboard 3 and 5 volt options. I haven't checked the amperage yet, but I assumed that the board would pass the properties of the power supply along mostly unmitigated.

Is that false?

I've entered a period of relatively little building action as I plan a transition to building lighted kits. I've got a Galor, DS9 and D'Deridex all sitting around either slowly being prepped or waiting for tools/supplies to be acquired. And beyond that horizon I'm about to acquire a Pro-Shop USS Yam...