Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

There’s a tool on Micro Mark for just this scenario. It’s literally an X-Acto blade handle on an adjustable arm. It’s with their model ship kits, as it’s made for scribing plank detail parallel to the water line. Or, there’s the method suggested on these very forums 16 years ago to me when I needed ...

I use them all the time. The printing is vinyl, so there’s not much chemically you can do. I just use a little sanding block and sand one way, pulling away from the center and towards the edge of the piece so I don’t crinkle up the sheet. Most times, it’s not even necessary, though, unless there’s a...

Wug wrote: ↑Thu Aug 10, 2023 9:10 pm Many thanks. You've got the best Wonderfest coverage on the web.

Seconded! A great report that always makes my entries look good.

Kenny

Excellent work, as always. I enjoyed your videos. Just like with your pictures, you made my entry look good.

Kenny

Thanks for the link. I am humbled that my A-Wing made the cut.

Kenny

Rocketeer wrote: ↑Fri Mar 17, 2023 4:47 pm I'd be a little careful when using alcohol to wipe down a model. Once when I fouled up an airbrushed acrylic paint job, I used alcohol to strip it, and it worked a treat.

Of course. My posts above were assuming bare plastic or primed models compatible with alcohol or Windex.

Kenny

A long time ago Polly S (I think that was part of Floquil then) made something that was supposed to take "static" out of plastic models so it would not accumulate dust so easily. I'm not sure it was a "forever" 100% thing? Alas, Floquil is no more and Testors for the most part h...

I wash with Windex or isoporopyl alcohol (90-percent). If there’s any primer that doesn’t like alcohol or Windex, I’ll use water and a lint-free paper towel to clean, followed by a tac rag. I still use the tac rag even if using Windex or alcohol. I switched to alcohol after noticing how badly Stynyl...

I don’t know about those cases but some Novus plastic polish might work for you. That and a polishing kit like those ones sold at Micro-Mark. Use the kit first, wet polishing like you would a canopy, changing water and rinsing the plastic between grits. Rinse again and use the Novus, rinsing after y...

The stuff works great for small applications, like chrome trim pieces or aircraft light reflectors. When used in large applications it looks, like, well pieces of foil burnished down on a model. I considered using it for a project long ago, I remember seeing the builds in FSM and being thoroughly un...

It looks to me as though you’re fighting at least one of two problems. The first is white always being a problem with regards to opacity. Secondly, as others have stated, is how badly Vallejo needs to be shaken. The Model Air variety is not nearly as problematic in this regard but the basic Vallejo ...

If you want to get good at building, you literally have to treat it like a sport. Build a little everyday. Specifically, you’re asking about getting ideas on paper. Well. it’s like any art, in that there’s no best way. What is an absolute though, is that you literally need to figure out the relevant...

If you absolutely have to brush it on, I would get some Liquitex Slow-Dri and some Flow-Aid, if the brand thinner is not doing the trick. However, your best bet would be to mask and airbrush. I assume we’re talking about some pretty light work here, so try something really gentle, like Post-It Notes...

The higher percentage IPA will be “hotter” and thus mire likely to damage undercoats. It depends on the undercoat, but one of three things will happen: 1.) Nothing, on the first time or two. 2.) The undercoat will “frost” like CA does with fingerprints. It can usually be fixed by brushing on some Fu...

What about PVC pipe cement used in plumbing? I’ve always said I would try it of I built a vinyl kit.

Kenny

I have a lot of 30-plus year old Testor’s and Model Master enamels. I don’t airbrush them much but I do end up using them on cockpits and crew figures. I think I do it just so I can use a bit of thr old stuff from the old days, lol. Additionally, I have lots of 15-plus year old Apple Barrel and Vall...

When I work with anything pre-painted, I prime it as I do most other things; before the primer, I will lightly wet sand anything painted with 400- or 600-grit sandpaper. Then, after sanding and priming, I paint as usual. Choice of primer is up to you, but you can’t go wrong with Mr. Surfacer or auto...

I know that the typical answer to this would be, "use a flat or semi-gloss clear coat" or even to, "sand the painted surface after it cures to dull it down",but has anyone attempted using a flattening powder or "base" with a flattening agent in it to completely flatten...

I have to say this about panel lines. A scale of 1/72 is the same as the “real” thing seen from 40 feet away. Panel lines are certainly visible at that distance, so yeah he would want them to be visible. An experiment you can do is to take a photograph of a prototype vehicle with visible panel line...

CA is one of my go-to's. Use thick, don't use an accelerator, as that actually weakens the CS, and don't use talk or baking soda as a thickener/accelerator, as both, after about 20 years, start to dissolve. You have a couple of hours after the CA is dry to sand and scribe, otherwise, as others have...

I don’t recommend the sprue goo for something you’re going to be scribing over. It dries way too soft, IF it dries at all. I’ve experimented with it for filling vehicle gaps as well as seams on figures; Shep Paine is where I learned that trick with figures. It’s not ideal for vehicle seams, because ...

I've used 5 minute steel epoxy instead of regular body fillers. Almost the same deal as using a super glue filler, but a "stronger bind" I.M.O and its not hard to scribe and it stakes tooling pretty well and just as easy to prime. I used steel epoxy about 21-years ago on a scratchbuilt ae...

Don’t use talc and CA in this application. It makes CA softer and that’s not what you want if you’re going to be scribing over it. Just apply the CA and let it dry. Good, old Loctite in the clearish, triangular bottle with the black ribbed cap like you get at WalMart is what you want here. It sands ...

Fighting Pirahna Graphics. You will have to supply them a PDF of the image and be very specific about size, quantity and the like. They do excellent work. If you need the PDF created, and aren’t an Adobe or Gimp guy, I suggest our own Robb “Kylwell” Merrill at Hungry Lizard Studios. Contact him here...

Place a drop of Loctite CA on a palette. Dip the tip of a straght pin into the droplet and then walk the drop along the failed line using the straight pin. Allow to dry for five or 10 minutes. View your sanding/scribing process in relief via using a light source opposite of your face with the subjec...

P.S: I'm still looking for the old article I found many moons ago,but has anyone used or tried the "wax" paint chipping method?It may have even been "future floor wax"(I don't remember).You basically paint in layers then remove the wax with an adhesive strip like tape to uncover...

I had thought of doing something similar not knowing if anyone had done it already or tried it?I was thinking of just mixing some pastel powder with water(or rubbing alcohol),applying them accordingly (as a wash)and allowing them to dry,then maybe rubbing them with a Q-TIP to make it streak,or to r...

Can anyone recommend some good, inexpensive sources for rocket exhaust bells? One inch diameter or smaller... If you're wanting Apollo-ish type bells, perhaps some of the Kotobukiya sets would suit you. They have verniers, weapons, engine bells, grab handles, hatches, etc... They're cheap, too! You...

That thread should still be here somewhere in the Finishing forum. They don't get pruned, so far as I know. That being said, I do not have the time or patience to run it down. I've got building to do

Kenny

Sounds like the OP used a rattlecan lacquer like Testor's Dullcote or somesuch. That's the most likely candidate for washing away acrylic. That, or it was something with a ridiculous amount of alcohol and was soaked on instead of misted.

Kenny