Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Hi everyone. I love the wet look of Future - it makes my clear parts (epoxy resin) look even clearer. However im still having problems with it not covering all areas evenly. Main question: 1) So how does Krylon Acrylic "Crystal Clear" compare to Future, in regards to the wet look? *Update:...

Ill be more careful with the gloves. It seems I can brush on a layer of Future on spots that didnt get the wet look, by holding the part close to a desk lamp (which gets warm), then brushing over the spot multiple times until the Future dries enough to stick. But actually, getting a good drip on the...

Thanks, ill try 1. Any advice on surfactants which work on clear parts (they dont discolor)? Ive heard of Jet dry but it looks blue. And you dont think thinning the Future with water or alcohol would help at all? Ive been trying to brush Future onto the parts that didnt cure "wet" so ill l...

No. It's epoxy resin which I poured in a silicone mold without mold release, to avoid water marks in the cure (and the mold doesnt seem to need it). After it was cured, I pulled the part out while wearing Nitrile gloves to protect from fingerprints. http://www.harborfreight.com/pack-of-100-powder-bl...

I was figuring on using Smooth-On Crystal Clear 202. Would something with a longer pot/cure time be better in terms of getting pieces with no bubbles in it? A longer cure time could help the bubbles rise before the liquid gels. If it's a small part you can pick out the bubbles with a toothpic or ho...

Wow Future is amazing. I took a part that didnt need sanding (so it was already pretty clear) and dipped it in Future. I let it dry and it kept the wet look which made it even clearer! The only problem I have is it isnt drying evenly over all surfaces of my complex part. So some spots look wet while...

Im dipping a small clear part in Future and brushing on touch up spots. But im having problems with the liquid not “sticking” evenly to all surfaces. It’s like when you spread out a water drop on a surface, and it tries to pull back into itself to make a drop again. The Future is doing this before i...

And most important when using polishing films or sticks, use them wet. You might also try Tamiya's fine polishing paste. It'll put a shine on gloss paint. Thanks. Do you have an idea what grit that is, or where it fits between the other MM or polishes? Also im trying to find a polish that I can buy...

I was searching for this too and went to a hobby store to find chrome paint but they didnt have any real chrome paint. I saw a tray of chrome parts and they told me about a Chrome plating service for plastic: http://www.chrometechusa.com/model-cars-and-collectibles.html I also bought a chrome metal ...

Thanks for the link. Im in California. And you say I can find this at the "nail-care section of your local drug store?" Is "Tri Grit" the brand name or just the name for type of stick that has 3 grits? If Tri Grit is the brand name then Id know if what I find in the drug store, h...

Once I got a resin 'clear' canopy. I polished it, and polished it, and polished it, but surface imperfections refused to go away leaving a less than clear surface. I was stumped until I took a look at the surface with a magnifier. There were TINY bubbles in the resin which made it less than clear. ...

It's a part I made with a 2 part mold. That's why there's a seamline. When I take out the part from the mold, I must shave off some excess material which sometimes creates small scrapes on the part. It's a transparent blue structure-like part for a futuristic look, and light shines through it. That'...

Thanks for the replies. I tried Novus #1 and it doesn’t really do anything. It seems to be only a cleaner and I cant confirm if it has any abrasives. I tried using Future on the part but it didn’t help restore clarity. It also causes watermarks even if I dip it in because it doesn’t dry evenly on th...

I see. I also have Future and I believe you helped me with info on that before. But I brush it on and when I do, it leaves water marks so I would need to sand or polish those out. So can anyone recommend a final polisher which is finer than Novus #2? Im trying to achieve a shiny glass-like surface. ...

Hi thanks for the reply and the info about Meguiars Fine-Cut Cleaner, I can rule that out now. So for clarification do you think the jump from 2500 grit to -> Novus #2, is too big? Or the jump from Novus #2 to -> Novus #1 is too big? And how would Micromesh fit into the steps from heaviest to finest...

Hello I searched around but couldnt find a specific answer. What is a finer (smaller grit) polish than Novus #2? I have a transparent epoxy-resin part with seam-lines. I sanded the seams with 2500 grit wet sand paper, then I polished the surface with Novus #2 and a que tip. I heard that Novus #1 con...

Hi, what can be used to sand a layer of Future, so that it is polished very smooth, without water-lines or paint-lines? I painted on many layers of Future onto a gray model with tiny scratches, using a fine paintbrush (smaller than a cotton cue-tip). But there are tiny water-lines from the liquid Fu...

Here are my results: I painted 1/2 of an acrylic rhinestone with Future as a test. Then I put the rhinestone on Double Sided Scotch tape and put this on top of a cured piece of platinum rubber (Mold Star 15). Then I painted Vaseline (cut with paint thinner) onto the cured rubber. Then I poured liqui...

A small test is curing now, but Im new to Future so I wanted to ask for tips first. I was trying to find the ingredients in Future and some people have said its acrylic. And another site mentioned acrylic-latex something as a possible inhibitor to platinum. Ill update when the rubber cure time is ov...

I read a discussion in a very old thread about using Future in a mold. But the old thread topic wasnt completely related. If I put Future polish on my Master part, then make a mold using platinum cure rubber (Mold Star 15), will the Future inhibit the cure of the rubber? Or does Future peal off surf...

I have a model part that I want to polish before I make a mold out of it, so that the molded parts are polished and glossy. I will be casting transparent resin. The model has a layer of sand-able auto primmer on it currently. And I sanded it up to 2500 grit. Since the Future name is gone, which prod...

well, if you get a pressure pot you wont need to vacuum the RTV moulds, just pressure-cast them also - job done. I was under the impression that if you pressure cast with a mold that hadn't been vacuumed, the mold would collapse. Is this not correct? Vern Hi, I bought a pressure pot and used 39 psi...

Thanks for your reply. Im using the "Clear Casting Epoxy" and I notice even after 24 hours, the part is still soft. And the full cure time is listed at 72 hours. Today im investing $80 in the Harbor Freight Pressure Paint Tank and converting it for pressure casting. http://www.harborfreigh...

Oh. So do you recommend making both parts out of Dragon skin then? I havent used it so im not sure how rigid it is in block formation (ie not used as just a glove mold).

Yes you are correct. One is tin cure, the other is platinum. But I just wanted to be safe and add a Vaseline layer just in case. But do you think the idea of using a 2 part mold, 1 part with Dragon skin (detailed- tight fit part), and the other part with Oomoo 30 (base part) is a good idea/ worth th...

Hi I made a mold using Oomoo 30 but a 1 mm detail ripped off, I think when I pulled the Master part out the first time. I am not sure if I did not pull the part out slow enough, or if there's too much tension on the rubber for my mold design. Should I buy more Oomoo 30 and try again? Or should I pay...

Coating the mold with baby powder will help quite a bit. It will break up the surface tension of the resin and make it flow better. Just make sure to either knock or blow out any excess powder. A fine coating is all you will need. For those who have used baby powder in molds, do you know if its usa...

Thanks for the reply. I had a successful casting of the model by picking out the air bubbles with a plastic toothpick. Even tho I couldnt see in, I just picked at each hole and it worked. But when I cast a 2nd time, it didnt work. Would using a pressure pot at 35-40 psi work at pushing the resin/epo...

Hello im casting a part using "Castin'Craft Easycast Clear Casting Epoxy" and "Oomoo 30" silicone rubber mold. I am getting some tiny bubbles inside the walls of the part which is tolerable. But my big problem is I'm getting bubbles at the edges of fine details, meaning the Epoxy...

I use it for stand-alone clear parts - not as windows cast-in-place Insure you get complete mix, I usually mix for twice the recommended time Pre-heat the mold Once poured, put it all back in the oven - 150f for 30-40 minutes Leave it alone for at least 24 hours - - - - - - Cast in place? Uhhhh.......