Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

That's very informative, and extremely helpful!! thanks for the post!

en'til Zog wrote:Maybe drill some holes straight into the resin with a letter gauge drillbit, then use the drillbit as a router to connect the holes and route out each trench. Tedious? yes. Possible? also yes.

are there not drill-bits specifically designed for that?

This would be camo for roughly 160 men... SMALL men... i'm not sure where i'd get it or how expensive either... that and CUTTING all those decals to individually do legs, amrs that are in kookey poses sometimes... breastplate armour, HEAVY armour for 20 MORE troops, helmets... bumpy, compound-curvin...

i'm planning on starting an Imperial guard army from Warhammer 40K, and i want to do them in ACU Pattern Cammo like this ... only these guys are this big ... i depirately need tips, tricks, suggestions, even musings on how i could paint these tiny dudes with a realistic looking digital camo HELP PLE...

The way i did my armorcast Vulture was a basecoat of gloss black, and then i LIGHTLY dusted the edges with a dark grey to give it some depth, then put about 6 coats of future on it.

have you tried SHINY black paint?


flat black looks bad, but a gloss will ususally do you fine.


what scale are we talking? how big is the canopy area?

I've been thinking about getting an airbrush to be strictly used for spraying future. I have the Badger model 350 single action external mix in mind. (very cost evective for a special use only brush) Has anybody used one of these for spraying Future? Any opinions? Good? Bad? Yes. i have one, and i ...

uh, to light all the windows with no fibre-optics will likely take more than 'a couple of LEDs'... but i havn't even seen one of those in 4 years... so i'm affraid i can't be of much more help then expect it to take 6 or 7 if you're jut using them as spotlights shining through the windows

i see what Umi's getting at, but wouldn't a wooden dowel work better, ans the wood would absorb some of the resin making an even stronger bond?

what about that blue poster tack stuff? would that work? it's also cheap too!

uh... burnt rubber isn't really ashey... i's more a viscus pool of tar...

madman, you have anny suggestions on good snips for flush-cutting fibers that are reletively inexpensive?

ya.. engraved lines would be great, but THIS is the visor we intend on using... because i can get a "2 replacement visor set" for $30 through some connections at the local sporting goods store... and i don't think it'd be easy to carve something detailed into such compound curves.... which...

i wouldn't think so... but then i've nverer tried it... wait, yes i have... but only with acryllic paints... i don't think enamel would be a probalem, but lacuer might be, i know enamel + lacuer = bad, but i'm not sure about acrylic + lacuer, or acrylic plus enamel... future being acryllic... i'd ad...

Chacal, that's a good idea about the surface-mount LEDs... he has some HUD things he wants me to paint on the helmet... and i'm wondering, would Decals be a better idea? i mean, i can paint the HUD with clear paints , but theres numbers and things that i'd never be able to get that small... would it...

he's leaning towards the idea of a visor as opposed to goggles [future military commando costume]... kinda like the helmets seen in roughnecks, but he'd like a blue or red glow... so this won't be right up to the face, nor will we require a uniform "Flashlight Eyes" effect... where would o...

a friend of mine [who is hopeless when it comes to building anything] has asked me to look into this for him [and to build it for him if i find it's possible]. he's looking to get this type of glowing eye effect either in a pair of goggles or as a whole-face visor for his costume for this upcomming ...

all you need is a photoelectric sensor. it's a little thing that looks like a tiny section of a solar pannel, and it activates depending on the light it picks up [generally it activates when light hits it] spilce it into the circuit like a switch, and when the lights come on [or go off depending on ...

it means it's AC if it plugs into the wall without a DC-converter present[unless there's one on the chord]. unfortunately this also means you're boned.

and now it's my turn to confuse everyone: Electrical theory works backwards from what actually happens. power [electrons] flow out of the - end of a battery, but for simplicity/logic's sake we say power goes + to -... when really it goes - to + :P so it really dosn't matter where he puts the switch,...

Kylwell wrote:Sounds like a smaller version of using sparklers for damage. Looks nice at that scale.

I'm still a dremel, xacto, airbrush and pastels kinda guy.

while i am practicing with those to try to replicate the effects.. i havn't been able to get any that actually look like burns

Now we all know the a beat-up ship just looks cooler than something fresh off the line. i'd like to share a technique i picked up for replicating burn marks on yor model. Cant remember where i picked it up, mybe even from someone on these boards. Matches. That's right: Matches. nothing looks more li...

not only that, but it'll make it look pretty with less work!

[at least that's how I understand it]

cool. i'm quite familiar with the 7400 series thanks to the program i was in at school [they tought us how to program these exclusively because that's becoming an "industry standard IC" apparently]. they're very reliable, and if you have the correct program and a basic knowledge of C++ you...

I think you Discovered the inspriration for the NX-01!!

Hot water and pliers. Yeah, I know this one. But the vaseline is a new one and I won't even eat broccoli, so what makes anyone think that I would touch the rubber band? :sick: If I brough some of that in the house (for the first time mind you) that will open up a lot of questions from the little wo...

what he said... you'll likely have no problems with safety (just don't do anything rash)

the doors on the 29 are pretty unique...


i don't have the money to order aves form the store, and nobody carries it locally (if i order it from the store... more's going in the order than just that!)

i think i'll do the stuff with sprue and putty over it method...

ok, i have 2 mig-29 kits from Zvezda models out of Russia, and before we steryotype the things look great, few parts, and dirt cheap too! fit was good, it's a shame it has raised pannel-lines, but i can hack it (when i get some money i'll have a cheapo-kit to try them new-fangled scribing tools from...

the stuff that comes with the "Skip Doctor" [the handiest F-ing tool i've ever seen for CDs] is [from the back of the bottle]:

99.5% filtered water
0.5% isopropanol (preservative)