Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Kind of like the launch scene at the beginning of the Macross movie.

WOW, old school! No school like the old school! It is a little sad that fewer modelers engage in this kind of craftsmanship. But, time moves on and now 3-D modeling is at the forefront. Personally, I welcome any new tech or materials. When 3-D printing became a thing, there was scorn and derision by...

I didn't even get to render anything - I started crashing my computer while drawing a TOS Enterprise in 3-D. 286 processor and all that.

Watching people using modern mesh programs to push and pull complex shapes is so amazing.

Ah yes, solid wood modeling. I just missed that era when growing up. I do remember a few commercial kits at the store (JP Penny's of all places) of hybrid wood kits with metal accessories. I specifically remember a 747 and F-4 Phantom II. As a little kid, the idea of carving a block of wood to match...

For tires (tyres), the bugaboos are radially indexed items like hub spokes and bolts, and tread blocks unless they are circumferential. I have fixed up plastic kit tire treads, but it is dreadfully tedious. 3-D printing can do the “impossible”, like make parts with 360 degree detail. For example, th...

Yeah, 3-D printing is a game-changer to the way we build models. Like all emerging tech, the first printers were an expensive joke, but now decent prints can be made by even regular folk. Well ones with the know-how and the tools! For me, I want to get into the 3-D game because there are some things...

I usually start with a hand sketch. If it is a vehicle, I try to make at least a plan, side and front view to establish the overall shape and proportions. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51940642439_37c53e48c6_4k.jpg Since I have access to CAD, I'll then take some measurements and draw it on the...

The best method I have found is using stretched sprue from the kit itself. Unlike sprue goo, it is not all soft, and using Tamiya Extra Thin or Gunze's Mr Cement S, it melts into the recesses and dries quickly for sanding, A good bond means you can scribe on top of it without any problems.

I have a gallon jug of Purple Power, and it is effective in removing both the chrome plating and the yellow gooey lacquer undercoat. I recently tossed the chrome sprues from a Revell car kit into a container with PP and left it for 24 hours. When I came back to it, the lacquer was streaming off the ...

For heavy blaster damage, I have used fine wire scrunched up into a ball, heated while holding with tweezers, then pushed onto the surface of the model. By varying the contact area, you can replicate small spall/spatter damage around the primary point of impact. You could use a Dremel tool to do the...

TVGM, it's a vexing problem that seems to have no 100% answer. There was a vinyl spray primer sold in Japan about 20 years ago that was specifically made for kits, but I can't recall the name. In the US there is Krylon Fusion, but I have not tried it. I once used Floquil primer and their railroad co...

Here's a thought - drill the holes first, but oversized. Then take some styrene tube and fit it to the holes, taking time to get them aligned. Use thick CA to give you time to move them. Trim them down flush with the surface, putty as needed. Kev +1 You could also make a simple jig using wire or ro...