Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

And make sure you are placing them in such a way that they're not overheating as that is death to LEDs. It'll kill a diode faster than overpower it. And how does one achieve that, the way in which the LEDs get placed is pretty much dictated by the model itself? What about securing them in place? I ...

I got some and experimented. I'm dropping that idea has the stuff just isn't bright enough and has way to low a lifespan.

I've begun ordering my LEDs from HDA Modelworks now, as I've been given good references about the quality and sourcing of his LEDs.

I'll probably get some from that model railroad supplier linked above also.

And make sure you are placing them in such a way that they're not overheating as that is death to LEDs. It'll kill a diode faster than overpower it. And how does one achieve that, the way in which the LEDs get placed is pretty much dictated by the model itself? What about securing them in place? I ...

I've been buying the prewired for 12v LEDs from Oznium.com now for many years, I've now had about 15-20 of them fail in the last several projects I've used them in, MONTHS after being tested, installed, and working fine, ruining my projects. I know I'm not over volting them as they are designed for ...

I'm thinking of doing the Raytheon effect for the flood/spot lights on a 1/350 refit, and want to use this stuff to backlight the whole area(s). Where can I buy it in the sizes & shapes I'll be needing? I haven't used the stuff since the mid 90's....

NCC1966 wrote:Very weird! However, seems that you have your issue solved!

Well the colors are now close enough to where I can accept that the difference is the result of the surfaces being steel, and the other painted wood.

Model Master is an excellent brand. I love it and currently is my favorite. Now it's possible that a clear coat give the darkening effect (specially the glossy) but actually it will be acting over all colors and not only this blue. It does mean that the balance of colors will be altered. In any cas...

irishtrek wrote:

Thomas E. Johnson wrote: Vallejo Acrylic Plastic putty is also similar, but thinner, and works great also.

Is this sold in hobby shops and if so does hobbytown carry it or is it also sold on line???

Some shops carry it. You can order it from Megahobby also. It is a regularly stocked item for them.

I first learned about this stuff from Trekworks YouTube videos, and I've seen it mentioned elsewhere. I bought some of it and I use it (it is British made). It works great and I like it a lot. Megahobby.com carries it. I use it for medium gap work, and now use Tamiya putty for smaller seam work. Val...

Certain pigmentation have more coverage power than others. One of the characteristics that make it happens is the amount of solid particles the paint has (that's why metallic paints has an excellent coverage). Enamel paints are made out of a base clear with pigment added to it. It means that the qu...

It only did it with the Deck Blue (very dark blue). Tried several bottles of it also. It didn't do it with the other two colors.

"It has been about 20 years since I've used and airbrushed them" That is probably your answer right there. Your lucky you even could use a 20 year old bottle of enamel! Get some fresh paint and try again. I am also a big advocate for using the manufacturer's thinners. I know it costs more...

I'm using enamel paints (MM) for the most part on my 1/200 Missouri. It has been about 20 years since I've used and airbrushed them. I thinned the Deck Blue with odorless mineral spirits for airbrushing, but it appears to have changed the color of the paint. More correctly, it seems to have lightene...

Yeah - I guess in a YUUUGE scale kit, it would work. You will probably have to overcoat it with something to darken the deck a little, or maybe fade the hull color a litter to look a bit more worn..? I thought about whethering the model, but not quite sure how to create the desired effects in such ...

I can't say much about the pre-stained wood deck. One maker may get the color right while another misses it by a mile... Not a big fan of the whole "real wood" deck thing anyway, since it doesn't really look that scale (remember the graying effect - with range). For small scale stuff yeah...

Well - there are several factors involved, the base tone of the material (wood vs steel), the surface texture and the fact that the wood will absorb some of the paint. I would expect the deck to be a little lighter than the steel sides and superstructure and the deck would look a little rougher in ...

In my experience with real wood, when painted with the same color paint as steel or fiberglass, it still has a different color and appearance than the latter, different color reflectivity I guess. Would this also have been true on ships like US BBs during WWII, that had wooden decking painted with t...

I wouldn't be surprised if they started reintroducing those colors, only in the Ayrcl formula. For a lot of navy colors, I've had to switch back to enamels, because the acrylics I'm unable to source by the bottle in the US. Lifecolor being an example. Can't by the individual colors by the bottle, bu...

I have the Iwata-Medea High Performance Hi Line CH Dual Action Large Gravity Feed Cup airbrush that is listed in the initial posted question. It is the brush that I use for medium areas and fine detail work. I have never had any issues with using ANY type of paint through it. Cleaning it is also inc...

Go Flight wrote:https://www.amazon.com/SEOH-Glass-Dropp ... s=pipettes

HTH

I ordered a pack of these.

I flush it out with lacquer thinner or acetone. Takes about a minute and cleans it thoroughly.

I've been using Testors paint Pippets and they are garbage quality wise. Always split open on the first use. Can anyone recommend a brand and source that is of much higher quality?

He posted on FB last night that he was let go by Hobby Lobby, so I'm sure he will have the time now to get back to his business.

He has gone to work for Hobby Lobby, and has been pulling double OT shifts for the last few weeks.

irishtrek wrote:Almost any paint has little tiny clumps and will eventualy clog ones airbrush.

I've yet to have that issue with Tamiya acyrlics.

Kylwell wrote:They just clump on the odd occasion. Vallejo does it also, once you've opened them. Sometimes a vigorous shaking can emulsify them but it's just safer to run them through a strainer.

I always stir my paints heavily.

Tamyia and Polyscale acrylics are my preferred paints.

Since straining the MM enamels has been brought up, can I take that to mean they are not a fine pigment grind?

Its been over 20 years since I last used enamel paints as I couldn't stand them. They clogged my airbrush regularly no matter how much I thinned them, and smelled really bad and gave me headaches even in a ventilated area.. I prefer acrylics for models, with a good lacquer primer underneath. Now I s...