Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

I haven't used Testors tube cement for years since they came out with this wonderful bottle/applicator:
http://www.testors.com/product/136635/3 ... ement_1_Oz.

If I need a thicker type of cement, that is what I use.

I forgot also that YEAH I would love to have a replica of that early Y-Wing version too.

Actually that design was done by Colin Cantwell who did the original concept models. Mcquarrie used Cantwells Y-Wing mock-up as reference for his paintings.

Here's one of the shots I know I have. http://www.flickr.com/photos/ter-or/2351575734/in/set-72157604192488450/ Yes, Zog did work on the original Star Trek series making props, at least for the pilots. Some of his work is at the Smithsonian. Wow he looks almost exactly how I pictured him in my mind...

I probably communicated with Clyde a few times thru e-mail during the clubs J-57 build days. Funny I never met him personally nor do I know what he even looks like but 'Zog' was often mentioned during club meetings. BTW I'm not sure if I'm remembering this right but was Clyde actually an electrician...

Before the digital camera era exploded on the scene and killed 35mm film, I managed to obtain a huge box of used 35mm disposable cameras. The wealth of detail parts I found in those cameras was amazing. If you happen upon some don't throw them out. Just make sure to discharge the capacitor that feed...

Usually I get the best ideas when I'm not intentionally seeking them. Usually a good long quiet walk will shake out those miraculous visions hiding in your head.

Depending on the job you'll find that having both are good. I just ran into a situation where I had to use both. Pin vise for starting up a hole using a small diameter bit and the Dremel for finishing it up.

I'd recommend getting a Dremel Stylus. It's smaller and not awkard to handle: http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Tools/Pages/ToolDetail.aspx?pid=1100 I went for years using the big corded Dremels and found that this little cordless Stylus (which I bought on an experimental whim) has pretty much displaced ...

Is anyone using a Dremel 100 for any aspect of their build? I have a chance to pick one up, but if it is pointless to have, no sense in getting it. I'd recommend getting a Dremel Stylus. It's smaller and not awkard to handle: http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Tools/Pages/ToolDetail.aspx?pid=1100 I went f...

It's only 1 speed? Forget it. No wonder it's on clearance.

I recommend these:
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories ... px?pid=456

Viagra?

If you already have a lighting kit you gotta plan ahead as to where you want ot hide the wiring or put in LEDS or fiber optics. Ramsayman is correct, you are gonna have to do a lot of drilling and carving out with a Dremel. If you don't have one...get one.

....You really don't need the fancy scribing tools, unless that is what you desire to have... Scott I've bought my share of the fancy scribing tools and from experience found them to be basically a pain in the ass to use. Finicky little tools they are. I'm always ending up going back to the old bac...

How about getting 3-4 of those smallscale waterline battleship kits and just raid them for the small parts. You can then make a gang mold of the choice parts and make multiple castings for your project.

What sort of kit are you trying to add detail too? Because that's important to know on the 'type' of detail you want to throw onto it.

The cheapest way I can think of is to buy lots of Evergreen/Plastruct styrene structural details and just start chopping.

Your aren't gonna get that same effect or paint control with a rattle-can because if you 'could' everyone would be doing it and airbrushes wouldn't exist anymore.
Learn the malarky.

I guess you need to define '...don't have a lot to spend'.

I know someone from the Robot Mafia might need a job:
http://slurmed.com/fanart/leelas-loyal- ... -slave.png

Prismacolor pencils or better yet those blocky pastel sticks.

I've never heard of any cure for that except for re-painting the area. That's the closest 'friendliest' cure I know of. I don't know.

Either your primer is crap and you aren't letting it cure fully. Or there is too much moisture in the air and it has settled on the primed surface.

The only lighting kit I ever bought was from Hyperdyne Labs for my studio scale X-Wing. It was simple and straight forward and I wasn't frightened at all about installing it. I haven't tried any of the other lighting kits that are out there but I would like too. The thing is they have to be 'simple'...

Now that's what I'm talking about! Nice!

My preference is Plasticote Primer (gray/black/ruddy brown for vehicles) (white for figures). I also use Mr. Surfacer 500 for spot filling seams and other imperfections on the surface.

I wonder if the Krylon semi-gloss itself is causing the problem. How thick are you spraying that stuff? Are you using an airbrush or just the can? If just using the can than you might be spraying that stuff on too thick. You might get by with an airbrush with thin coats. However it's also quite poss...

Jon I wish I could 'articulate' into words of how to 'greebly-ize' but I can't. I could say it's all about being extremely random and avoiding patterns. It's sometimes hard to do but if you catch yourself doing it 'Don't Decorate'. Here's a link to the Nostromo restoration to maybe help a little. ht...

I prefer the 'EasyOff' way. Just dump the parts to be stripped inside a 2 gallon Ziplock bag and carefully spray them. Make sure the place is ventilated. Just zip the bag up and let it sit for 20 min or so.

Ziz wrote:http://www.zizolfo.com/models/booth.html

My own design. Easy, cheap and uses commonly available parts. Feel free to tweak it to your own needs. One person around her - Phil Conner, I think - built it with a clear tub to allow more light in.

Nice!