Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Hey,

Here is a link to Fine Scale Modeler's Wonderfest Gallery.

https://finescale.com/online-extras/sho ... to-gallery

I humbly submit that my Cursed Starfury is present.

Honored, am I.

I had a few email chats with Zog a long time ago. Seemed like a really nice guy. Too bad he passed.

I actually found "True North Enamels" out of Maine on the web. I have yet to actually try them, but its enamel, and they had the light sea gray I wanted. I have to finish stripping the *)(^&*^ Humbol off my Starfury first though and it takes *forever*. I'm using Simple Green to slowly ...

Yea... the paint in the tin looks like glop... very thick even after several minutes with my power paint shaker. And if its not made right and settles in the cup after just a few minutes... then why am I bothering. I'm really sad to see Model Master go, never had any trouble with that brand. If Humb...

Yea I was kindof afraid of that. Humbrol may just not be intended to be thinned so much for airbrush and I think you're right that its settling in the paint cup, even though I shook it like crazy. Lots of other paints to try.

Hey, I'm using some Humbrol enamel for airbrushing and I'm wondering if I'm doing it right. First, the stuff comes out of the tin pretty thick, so I'm wondering if its gone bad. I use the Humbrol brand thinner but I can't find a specified thinning ratio, so I go with about 1 part paint to 1.5 parts ...

I first discovered SSM back around 2001 I think... I was googling for a model building site and found SSM, CTVM, and a few others. I was working as an IT guy and had recently rediscovered my passion for model building after being burned out from software. Some years later I became guilty of this lit...

I found it with a search engine back in 2008 I think...I was just amazed to find such a thing! Thanks for being here.

Thanks for the tip! I see very few pin holes, most surfaces are in fact so smooth they look shiny, even after an over night wash in soapy water. I'm planning on buying some 2-56 machine threaded brass rod to use as screw material. Its easy to cut, epoxy will stick to it very well, and if I insert it...

So I'm doing my second resin kit and its got metal in it too, fine wires I'll need to bend to shape. Its Howling Wolf's Narn G'Quan Battle Cruiser and its been in box for 10+ years awaiting my attention. I'm really keen to do a first rate job on this one. So I read the entire thread and here's what ...

For those that don't know yet, Madman Lighting has been sold to TenaControls as of February 2018. Its interesting to me to look back on my old posts and see how things have changed in the 12 years since I started. Back then, Social Media was boards like this, Facebook, Twitter, etc all didn't exist ...

I use #80 bits, less slop around the fiber.

Well I can tell you about the Madman kit as I am it's creator. The strength of my kit (and all my kits) is its ease of use. You use wire-wrapping instead of soldering for hookups, but you can still solder if you prefer. My kit definitely works with the Paragrafix bussard photoetch as one of my custo...

Thank You brt!

That lifespan sounds about right to me. When I started Madman Lighting I looked at all the available lighting sources and LEDs beat everything hands down for what I wanted to do, and in the 10 years since, they've just gotten better, by a lot. 10,000 hours is typical for LEDs and I'm sure its better...

Any particular reason to choose that type of lighting?

Granted, its a very even and uniform type of light but its not that bright, requires high voltage, and has a shorter lifespan than LEDs.

A customer had a question today about using the Remote Control feature on our kits. Madman Lighting kits that have a triggerable special FX can now be triggered by push button and a TV Remote Control. This is for firing weapons, changing from Impulse to Warp speed, etc. Annnd... the answer is: Virtu...

Ant is correct. Bigger batteries just last longer because they have more reactants in them. If you change battery TYPE then the voltage will change. For example: if you change from Alkaline to NiCD (and it was 15 years ago) then the total voltage of the battery stack would be reduced slightly. But, ...

Thank you! Thats mine.



Here's the video: https://youtu.be/CNXChc4FJk4

Yup. Over in Dimension 8 that is.

Now get back in your Thermalpod and build something.

Might be for reverse hookup protection, or possible surge protection.

I dunno, I'm just and engineer with a business doing LED lighting.

Next time ask me for one and I will gladly DONATE a kit.

Madman Lighting is on Facebook now and I've posted a number of photos of my own work and several customer's work.

Really nice eye candy.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/MadMan-L ... tos_stream

Thanks.

Redshirt.... Thanks!

I checked out your site and it seems you've been my customer for quite a while now, your "Bad Penny" Starfury has one of my early kits in it. Thanks!

OK, that might be a bit too teeny for my kits. Sounds like you have to practically hand-fit the parts into each nook and cranny to make it work. I would have a hard time offering SMT LED parts pre-wired... I think my wife would kill me if I asked her to start doing it! :shock: No matter, I've got so...

OK, now I can't just sit here ignoring an opportunity like this....! Just exactly what does a Spindrift need for lighting? I can offer the electronics, wires, fiber optics and LEDs but not any clear / translucent parts. What kind of special FX are needed? I can make LEDs blink just about any way you...

I have a new video for everyone. This is a basic how-to tutorial video that explains how to use the Wall Power Supply kit, connect power to the Delux-24 controller, connect LEDs to the controller by wire-wrapping them, and how to trim the leads short and properly insulate them. Here it is on YouTube...

Yes, you can definitely do that.

The push button is a very simple, on-momentary type.

You would also want an off-on switch type button for power.

Thanks!

I'll just add my $0.02 to say that since these are standard white LEDs driving these things, they can easily be driven using my LED controller cards.

Just use them as you would any other LED with my cards. Wire them in series to the controller's LED output and you're up and running in no time.

Hey... don't feel bad.


I r an engineeer and I make dumb mistakes like that plenty of time.

Maybe I should learrn to speeell sometime too.