Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

I wouldn't use Super Glue... it is a CA glue and it will make the fiber very fragil and breakable... I use 5 min epoxy.

I'm wondering if anyone can recommend some decal paper to use with my HP inkjet printer? I was hoping I could design some images with GIMP and print them out easily. Just wondering if you need any special hardware or ink or anything. Thanks I get my paper from Bell Decals http://www.belldecals.com/...

Arthur Pendragon wrote:You just need to coat the decals with a clear acrylic gloss and it's ready for applying at the model !

Also with thse C-63???

Babaganoosh wrote:

Marcal wrote:

I know! I hate it when retail sites don't have the products they carry in the stores!

No, I meant I hate you... I'm still working on my desk...

The problem is that I'm always afraid that the glue will mess up the paint... not to mention what's up with the seams. I've seen some on-line build ups where people paint at first and then glue on models I also have done and I had a hard time putting...

I was wondering... is there any good tip to do that?. I mean to paint at first and the glue parts together?

I tried sometime but did not work properly... I guess the first thing is to forget about putty-sand the seams, right?

He's not talking about the paneling but the bussards. Oh, yeah ! right, I was testing if everyone was paying attention... well, in that case... I would paint the bussard collector in yellow or orange as a basecoat and red over it. When dry, I would take a piece of steel wood (or whatever it is call...

Babaganoosh wrote:On the 1:1000, I'd use cardstock or large post-its.

with my 1/1600 3 pieces kit I also used post-its, but I did it with pastels. The effect looks pretty cool.

best option is to ask directly this modeler, but here is how I would do it:

take a piece of cardboar, mask the part you don't want to weather and just airbrush smoothly on the cardboard edge in the right direction.

try it on a scratch before !

I would try to use Methanol, ethanol or isopropanol to thin the putty. Actually I will try it whenI'mback from swimming

pastorgarret wrote:... I believe you (I am good at believing)!...

That was funny !!!

I use Tamiya primer as well (grey) and it works very well, as you said. What it is also useful is to wash the model (before asembling and priming) with water and soap...

The problem is solved !!! I joined the yahoo group and asked them... no response at all, but waiting. I e-mailed a guy who claims he has a win XP drivers suitable to my printer but for copyright issues he is not allowed to distribute them... in the very same e-mail he suggested me to contact ALPS an...

My problem, step by step, is: -I get an ALPS MD-2010 from USA. -I bought also a transformator because in Germany the power is 220 V -I have a PC with XP operating system. -I installed the drivers for win98 but to do so I had to switch on the compatibility for these exe files (the driver program). -I...

zaphod wrote:Check out swanny's models for a huge treatise on Future floor polish. I the the address is www.swannysmodels.com.

Yeah, I actually used this site to find out what was the German equivalnet. I'm using what he says...

And so far as I can tell, Future is absolutely clear. Clearer than gloss lacquer anyway. the one I buy is milky (as I said before), but when it dries the surface is gloss but not shiny gloss... if you know what I mean... Maybe I take some pictures next time I use it... Anyway I think it works the w...

I could clean it at the work place... but it pisses me off.

Maybe I can buy a single-action cheap airbrush only for this use... humm....


By the way: is the Future clear??. Because the equivalent I get in Germany is a little bit milky

Everytime I use Future in my airbrush, everyting becomes a mess. I find very difficult to clean the airbrush after the use... If I use a classic brush with the PL refit it could take much too much time.. So the question is: What about using Futute with those "hand sprays"... you know this ...

I've experienced this thing sometimes too.

To get rid of it, whe it happens I "sand" the model with "steel wool" or whatever it is called in english...

I'm using CREATEX AUTO AIR and works very well. Water soluble and absolutely no problem. Very cool colors.

Box wrote:Damn, should go back to my German study!

B

Never mind, I'am from Barcelona and I don't speak fluent German...

I have just try out two lines of Createx paint: the classic one (general use) and Auto Air (for cars, helmets etc..). I ordered model Air (for modeling) but the shop send me the Auto air... I supose there is no much difference... I ordered pearlescent white. IT WORKS GREAT !!! Ok, it needs a little ...

kylwell wrote:Fix the angles & disances in a trapeziod....Not sure what you're doing here, could you explain it a bit more indetail for me?

for example: I want to do a trapezoid 5 cm high, 8,27 cm on tha base and 3,78 cm on the top...

any idea??

Hi all, I'm trying to do some templates for aztecking panels and so on... I'm trying to do it with adobe Ilustrator althoug I don't know if it is a good tool to do them. Does someone know a good FREE manual, tutorial, or something??? I find the manual from adobe a bit unfriendly.... I would like to ...

Whatever acryllic clear, or gloss varnish or something like this should work. I use Mr. Metal Primer and works fine. The best thing you can do is to try it out before you do the final decals... every ink is a bit diferent from the other and the stuff in the clear liquids could react differently... A...

Usually you have to apply a clear coat before use them, to protect the ink... but everything else works in the same way...

Hi all,

I'm thinkinf of buying Createx Pearl Acryllic paints to do azteking and this sort of things. But I have no experience with this brand...

Someone knows something??, are they OK for modeling??


thanks in advance

You cannopt connect both CCFL into the same inverter unless the inverter is prepared for it. You could burn all the electronics. I see no problem to run the inverter with 9 V instead of 12 V... the problem would be if the inverter needed 9 V and you wanted to run it with 12 V... If you don't know ho...

joey_d1119 wrote:Where can I get thin sheets of styrene?

in any hobby shop, maybe a hardware store...

joey_d1119 wrote:Also, I filled in my windows for my USS Reliant. What can I put over them to mask them when I paint. I want something I can just dab on the windows and peel off after I paint?

Liquid latex works just fine.