Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

I have no idea what that part is based on the description and part number. Is it an antenna? Can you post a link to a photo? Or post a photo to the Starship Modeler Facebook page?

I recommend you skip the Alumilite starter set and just get the Alumilite High Strength 3 silicone rubber and the white "Amazing" casting resin. The rubber is stocked in the same section as the tools and the starter set, but the white resin is in the section with the polymer clays and epox...

Works great on real cars and other vehicles that have to have a good weather-proof coating on them. Scale models, not so much. About the only folks who regularly use 2-part urethane paint on models are car modelers, and they usually only use 2-part clears over lacquer or acrylic basecoats to get a s...

I recently did one of these 1/24 scale Iron Man figures and I had no trouble using Vallejo primer on the vinyl pieces. Here is my build log at The Clubhouse showing my process: http://theclubhouse1.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=110467 Please note you have to be a member there to see topics. Ov...

Try it on a test subject before you commit to using it in your finished models. Since it's so thin, it's easy to get runs if you aren't careful.

I got one of these mill/lathe contraptions several years ago and it actually works pretty well in the mill configuration. As a lathe, not so much, but I used it for a few things before getting a Taig lathe. The hardest part to me about using the Vandalay mill was work holding. The mill table has a l...

It'll work. Same principle as a rigid fiberglass mold. You have to be careful of your draft angle and you can't have any undercuts. And depending on what you're going to use as your casting material, you'll need a very effective barrier coat/mold release, like PVA.

Lacquer primer is fine for vinyl models. I've used Duplicolor lacquer spray primer from the auto parts store and Tamiya spray surface primer with no trouble whatsoever. Vallejo's excellent acrylic primer would probably work just fine (with somewhat diminished adhesion), but enamel is definitely a no...

http://www.texascraft.com/hps/Waterproo ... ive-Vinyl/

Inkjet-printable white vinyl with a non-permanent adhesive. 3mils thick, which is not terribly thick, but may not work on compound curves very well.

I find a convenient spot on the model as close to the balancing point as possible and install a DC jack socket there. Then I epoxy the matching DC jack plug into the top of the brass tube with the power wires hidden inside the tube. This way, the model can be removed from the rod for transport or cl...

Here ya go for your 5" torus as a 3D print:

http://shpws.me/wuAz

Price isn't that bad; just over $20 delivered. It's yours if you want it.

Depending on the size and thickness, it may not be so expensive to have one printed by Shapeways.

I wouldn't pre-thin the paint at all. I'd just mix the two equal parts into one container and use that mixed paint for all my subsequent painting, thinning it as needed.

Got a Harbor Freight Tools store nearby?

Ya, sounds like your mold release between the halves wasn't up to the task. May I ask what you used between the mold halves? There is a lot of very bad information floating around on the various internet forums and it's usually perpetuated by people who don't actually know what they are talking abou...

IMHO, the LED's are the only things of value in that little puck light. I suppose the battery holder is useful if you want to just use 3 AAA's. My basic lighting scheme is to put the batteries into a base and run power into the model through a stand. The flickering LED you referenced is only 1.8mm, ...

I'd suggest contacting Round 2 and inquiring about a replacement decal sheet directly from them.

I'm assuming it's an electric stove; put it on high and let the piece get as hot as possible-- glowing is nice-- and then remove it and let it cool. How large is the piece? I usually just use a Bic lighter or a candle flame to anneal small pieces-- it's a lot faster.

Frog Tape has a yellow tape for delicate surfaces that is virtually identical to Tamiya tape in appearance and performance for a much lower price. I think this particular tape is called Kabuki rice paper tape. It's available at paint supply places like Sherwin-Williams in three different widths and ...

Cotton T-shirt, used dryer sheet, flannel cloth...

That is cool. I wonder if the acrylic "lens" can be cut down at all?

I haven't done any business with this company but I've bookmarked it because they have some really nice stuff and appear to be completely legit.

Rustoleum paints are usually not particularly friendly to most types of styrene used in kits. If you can, go to an auto parts store and get some Duplicolor brand Filler-Primer. Duplicolor paints normally work better on styrene, but keep the coats light so the paint doesn't adversely attack the plast...

use Google to search for circuit simulator software.

I have never heard of this extremely harsh chemical being recommended to strip paint from any sort of plastic/resin kit! Who on earth said this would work?? About the harshest chemical you'd ever need to strip paint would be Easy-Off Oven Cleaner. Usually Super Clean or Purple Power is adequate and ...

Are you using Enamels? There is a product called-- wait for it-- "odorless mineral spirits" that indeed does not smell as bad as normal paint thinner. If you are using lacquer paints, then you are out of luck-- those paints and thinners are just smelly and there's no getting around it.

I wouldn't say there is any one best way to secure the fiber strands. I do know that regular old super glue does damage the typical plastic fibers we use for model lighting. I have used 5-minute epoxy and it works extremely well, and I have heard of guys using a hot glue gun but I have not tried tha...

Testors Decal Bonder is meant to be used as the top sealing coat for inkjet- printed decals. It is not intended for spraying decals that have been applied to a model. I guess you could, since the can I have seems to be nothing more than glosscoat lacquer. The trick to hiding the edges of decals is t...

Have you frosted the inside of the clear pieces but still have hot spots? Filling the space inside the nacelle with white polyester batting should diffuse the LED lights if frosting didn't do the trick.

It's usually a good idea to take a small decal from the sheet, such as part of the manufacturer's identification or item number, and test that piece to see what kinds of problems you might have. You can adjust your application method to overcome any deficiencies in the decal sheet.