Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

I have used the Vphoto cartridge to press down the first white layer before printing if I get that flaking at the edge of the white decals.

It has been a while since I have done it but I do not recall having to change labels.

That was quite neat and interesting what can be done with the arduino these days. I do like the voice description of the settings and the ability to put in your own sounds. You would probably get more interest from the 501st people. The board does look big though but you did say you have a 3D printe...

This sounds like neopixels and it looks like it with the 3 wires going to each LED. It is the programming that takes the most amount of time with these as each LED has to be told what to do. The plus side of these is all you need is 1 wire (data) coming from the arduino. The 2 other wires are power ...

I will spray into a brass pipe or straw into a bottle only what I need to airbrush. Spray slowly as the propellant can make the paint in the bottle splash up. This way the remaining paint stays sealed in the can until next needed. When I get no more propellant out the spray can I will use a can open...

I don't know about square feet of fine mesh but there are some permanent metal coffee filters with a fine mesh. The dollar store has these cooking thing. I call it a thing as I do not know what it is for. It is a big flat circle with a handle and the circle is a metal frame with a fine wire mesh in ...

If you have a silhouette why not cut self adhesive vinyl and stack to desired thickness?

I do not understand what you mean when you said "Am using a Cameo Silhouette to cut them but as thin as they are I haven't gotten one cut yet that I didn't cut through."

I was playing around with a 1" speaker and it was OK but I think it has to be louder in room that has some background noise to it. I was playing with programming the starting lighting sequence of the Refit and wanted to add the audio portion of the movie. I have not tried a larger speaker yet. ...

I have used the Mini USB 64M bit Serial SPI FLASH MP3 Voice Amplifier Module with some success with am Arduino Nano.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181924156736?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

I have been weathering my 1/72 Fine Molds Millennium Falcon kits and the 1/144 Bandai and Fine Molds kits. I have MIG pigments, Quartermaster Depot pigments and Tamiya Weathering Master sets. I found the pigments to be a bit messy and not always easy to control. Although I preferred the Tamiya Weath...

I have a Silhouette cutter. It is advertised as a tool for Scrapbooking. I use it as a vinyl cutter for making masks. I mainly use it to make masks for glass etching but a few times I have used it to make masks for some models. I made the masks so I could paint the markings on the 1:350 TOS Enterpri...

I have used their Ghostbuster LED kit for my 1:1 pack. Much cheaper then any other option out there. My friends and I have so far purchased 4 of these kits.

I would have no problem getting any of their other kits or ordering from them.

For all the steady on lights I would get a white LED for everything and then use the clear paints for the various colours. This way all the steady LEDs would have the same voltage and current draw and would use the same resistor. The flashing lights and stuff I would do with an arduio or some other ...

I would equate buying an airbrush to trying to buy a car by looking at photos and without test driving it. There are opinions all over the place and such a variety of prices. You get the car and then discover so many things about it. Some things you get used to while others bug the hell out of you. ...

When I light a model I tend now to use the same white LEDs This way all the current ratings will be the same.

If I need a colour I will tint the LED with clear paint such as Tamiya.

Q and R look like 3VDC circuits. I measured 2.79VDC with my multimeter. Sounds like the current draw is too much when you plug in the Q and R circuit. I can only guess at the reason. 1. The soldering is not clean and is short will not allow you to draw the higher current. Check the back of the circu...

A lot of wall adapters will give a mA rating.

I checked a listing on ebay and it says a 5m length needs 12V 2A.

So in theory 1.5m will need a minimum of 0.6A or 600 mA.

So you need a 12V DC adapter that puts out at least 600mA.

Sounds like there is a problem with the wire going from the circuit board in the secondary hull to the primary hull. Maybe that wire was somehow plugged in backwards on one of the circuit boards.

Do the navigation lights and individual LEDs work on the primary hull?

I once made a mould and the rubber didn't set in the time the instructions said it would (24 hours). I took the rest of the RTV back and got a replacement. I was not looking forward to cleaning up the master so I left it. I don't know if I had a bad batch or did not mix in enough catalyst but the th...

For wall power supplies I use one of those 110VAC wall power supplies that can change from 1.5VDC to 12VDC. It gives me a variety of choices on how to wire up the LEDs. If I want a self contained unit there are a variety of AA and AAA battery holders for different numbers to give you 1.5VDC, 3VDC, 4...

I used Krylon fusion black paint on the inside of my TOS 1:350 but it does not appear to be enough as the LEDs that come in the light kit are very bright. I will be painting the exterior and hopefully that will help but I am placing aluminum foil where I can to help block/reflect the light. I have a...

I have found soldering much more secure then wire wrapping. Wire wrapping can also take up a lot of room compared to soldering.

I purchased some ccfl kits. They come in various sizes and colours. I purchased some that were 4" and 6" long. Colours blue and white. This will be for my 1:350 Refit. I think these would be too small for the smaller kits. (ie 1:1000 refit) Here are a couple of links for what I am talking ...

If you put an on-off switch in the base then there should be no power running up your plug when you plug and unplug your model. FWIW, 274-286. And that is good to know because... Maybe it doesn't matter in this case, but if you use this jack for power (and the recommended female plugs on the other s...

I have a Sillouette and I can cut vinyl and put an impression into thin styrene (0.010") I can then carefully flex the styrene and it will break along the scored line. I purchased it mainly to cut vinyl. I tried the thin styrene as an experiment. I haven't tried thicker styrene as I don't think...

Where did you get the plans for your build as I have looked around and all the 3D files I have seen have not been accurate.

I have thought about scratch building a large scale Akira at some point

It looks good but I do understand the reasons for not finishing it. Thanks for showing us.

A motor doesn't have much to it so I would not think that is the problem. Either it works or it doesn't

I didn't know there was a capacitor in there but that could be the problem. Those things do store and release energy. Not sure what would happen with a bad capacitor.

Out of your entire list the LED and resistors is the only thing I can think of that is causing your problems.

How did you determine how many LEDs and resistor ratings to use?

What is the voltage of the lights that were in the kit. What is the voltage of your LEDs?

My decals also didn't seem to react to Solvaset but if I put some down before putting the decal on it eventually softened the decal enough to make it conform to curves. It was a long process for each decal. I put my decals over a white semi-gloss paint and they actually didn't silver. I was surprise...

I also sand the tip of the LED to help diffuse the light a bit.