Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

The mass of sand can probably be simulated using the suggestions posted here, but the individual grains may be hard to do.

The beauty of the blue and punk foam is that it is light, cheap and easily carvable or sculptable.

I have had pretty good luck skinning the foam with rolled out sheets of the Blessed Aves

Jon

I do the layout thing that Joe recommends. I also mod or cut up parts to disguise them more.

Sometimes an OOB kit is a nice departure from bashing scratching and super detailing.

I use Krylon grey primer or Mr surfacer.

Warming up the can in warm water is the way to go.

Dru Blair is a very good artist...I've got two limited edition signed B1-B prints of his...the one of the B-1 kicking up a rooster tail over water, and the other one of a B1 buzzing a poor little bunny getting his little bunny eardrums shattered in the desert. I got em when I was refueling B1-Bs in ...

Ye of little faith.

You can use easy water from Woodland, tinted resin or liquitex get medium with some paint mixed in.

What Robb said.

Also look for color pictures of an F100 for reference


The back end of that thing got so hot it would burn off the paint. Even the green and brown Viet Nam F100 had burnt metal back ends.

If you want a liquid mask rubber cement might be a better option.

Where do get it? Any home improvement store...Lowes or Home Depot. Ya got yer blue foam and yer pink foam. As far as cutting rough shapes ....get a Woodland Scenics wire cutter. For more advice...see Joes handout. I don't recall a hunk of foam being 100 bucks...the last 4 by 8 sheet of foam I got wa...

Can yuo sculpt the foam after it cures?

Robb

I'd like to have your light table.



Not a tool...but I;d say a decent set of reference material...books, photos, drawings...and whatnot.

Yep, ol testors glue aint gonna hold the saucer on.

I'd go with an epoxy as advised.

From the Book of Aves...

[b]"With Aves, all things are possible."[/b]

Thou shalt use the putty of all putties.

The blessed Aves.

Welcome, sister Ti.

Of course you know of the Aves Crusades and the Aves Inquisition.



Nobody expects the Aves Inquisition!!!!!!!!!

Welcome, sister Ti.

Of course you know of the Aves Crusades and the Aves Inquisition.



Nobody expects the Aves Inquisition!!!!!!!!!

Isopopyl alcohol works great for smoothing it too.

Yep, Jeff uses an Alps for now.

I think Jeff uses paper from Tango Papa.

I clean up the parts before I prime, prime, check for flaws then prime again.

I know people fear primer filling in details, but I use light mist coats and have had no problems.

Makes ya wonder what Karim is up to.

Do what Karim said.

The do what Robb said.


That join aint breaking after that treatment.

Brother Mike, let us enlighten you. Use alcohol to smooth the aves. You can get it into curvy areas. If you smooth it yea verily, you may not need to sand. Rather than glop alot of aves on...put little bits on at a time, smooth and add more. Airbrushes take time to learn too. With time and paitience...

What must we do, O brother Mike to convert you to the blessed church of Aves?


"And thou went forth and dipped into the Aves and spread thee verily onto the seam...."

Jeez, Kenny, those are good.

Mike

I do as Robb does,,,I tend to leave some extra material in the seam or joint and sand away excess.

Once the inkjet decals are completely dry would the microscale decal film work?

Robb,

I have no advice to offer, but I would refer you to photos of an F-100.

F-100's in Viet Nam were green and brown camo, but at the aft section by the engine the green paint burned away and the bare metal was exposed.