Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Yup

Opps I meant the RED one. ^

Thanks. I did end up using a sharp knife to pierce the clear coats and applied the SET, the effect improved slightly.

I've very puzzled because the surface was glossy and I've been doing this for years...very odd! May have to just live with it, the effect can only be seen from extreme angles.

Anyone still have silvering issues AFTER taking correct steps? Have a R2 Excelsior model, decals went down fine and looked good after using the setting solutions, even during gloss coat phase they looked fine. But when I applied the dull coat there was all this reflective film over most of my decal ...

Guys, thank you so much. This was so helpful, exactly the kind of info I needed!

Hi Greg

Is it true that airbrushes can spray anything (acrylic/enamel etc), as long as you use the correct thinner/solvent?

I have a NEO and need to use some lacquer paint, will this work out ok?

Thanks.

Kylwell wrote:That can happen as the Sol softens the surface of the clear coat. Let it sit & it'll usually return to clear.

Interesting! I'll try that out, the part looks better now than it did originally so you might be right. I additional coat of clear might improve things.

Thanks

Recently decided to try the Humbrol acrylic clear as a replacement to Tamiya's clear spray and noticed something weird when I applied some decals to a test piece using my usual MicroSOL/SET combo. The Micro SET seems to not interact with the clear at all and go on fine but the SOL seems to produce t...

Thanks, just needs glue paint (in the mail) Ignore the wobbly engine core, it's a dry fit for now.
Thanks for your help guys, I'll post some finished pics in the next couple of days hope you check em out!

well thanks for all the tips guys, but in the end I couldn't get to the bottom of it because I couldn't get any information on the resistors from the supplier. No matter, I simply used two separate power sources for the landing lights and the core. Here's a dry fit light test. http://i236.photobucke...

Thanks I'll give it a shot!

Thanks for your reply! Both the LED tape and the singles work perfectly (separately) I will double check but I'm sure my connections were ok. Since it's a draft system ill tidy up some of the wires and try again maybe I'm missing something if crossed wires could be the only problem. It's not a case ...

Can you post a picture on how you have it wired? I'd be embarrassed to.. I'm lighting two models concurrently (first time lighting) and it has gone perfectly so far. But I've tripped up on my second model that uses both LED tape and single LEDs. I'll attach a pic of my lighting system that I'm havi...

Hey, my lighting rig consists of a single strip of LED tape, and three conventional LED's but when all hooked up to a 9V bat only the three single LED's light up?

Any tips would be cool, thanks!

Anyone get cloudy looking aftermarket decals after they've dried (after using both Micro Set/Sol? White cloudy areas? Yes. It's the Future. Let it sit for a week. Usually goes way if not brush some more Microset on it. Or was it Microsol... whichever you put on second. I ended up doing just that, t...

Anyone get cloudy looking aftermarket decals after they've dried (after using both Micro Set/Sol?

In between airbrushes at the moment, going to get a can of Krylon acrylic matte to try on a test part.

Still needing some advice on this one, I now have two models in need of a dull coat.

DP

They discontinued TS13? Weird, I just bought one!

Anyway, is TS 80 flat coat the only Tamiya spray flat coat? I'm looking for a product that will flatten my TS 13 gloss coat on my model that isn't lacquer based as I used Tamiya acrylic colours on my model..

Thanks!

I've also heard that milk jug plastic is a great diffuser

Thanks! That was helpful, and you're right the colour does effect the light output, thanks for pointing the out as I had no idea! I bought white, red and blue LEDs. The blue ones are rated at 450-550 mcd and red at 500-600 mcd, and are both diffused LEDs. The white ones don't specify but they are la...

Hey, I'm finally taking the dive to build my first lighted kit, I just bought some 5mm LED's online. Will these be bright enough for my kit? (I'm lighting the Monogram Maquis Raider) I think I should need about 14 LED's (blue, white and red ones) for the kit but wanted a second or third opinion! I'm...

If you're in NZ then the Tamiya brand should be widely available? That's what I use here. I've been using Tamiya TS-13 clear coat, a synthetic lacquer, which apparently fully cures in about an hour. -Given a thinish coat. You shouldn't have any problems with using a mixure of acrylic or enamel paint...

Is it recommended that I spray Tamiya TS-13 clear over my decal sheet in a thin coat before I cut out and apply the decals to my model? Also, after applying the clear coat to my model, is 24 hours the best time to wait before applying my decals? Should I also wait 24 hours for the thin coat of gloss...

Water starts coming through your airbush when your painting, change the filter? Yes?

I remember this also, geat to see it in the works again!

I've drilled out my windows on my Enterprise-D. And I've purchased Envirotex Lite as my clear resin. If I understand what's been posted here, it sounds like my next step is to cut rectangles of cellophane tape them in place from the outside. Then fill in with the clear resin from the inside. Or sho...

Yeah same, holy hell!

Love to hear where you've gotten with this