Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Yes it will.

Some automotive primer. Self etching is good, may not be good for airbrush, but I use it anyway.

Actually I found "the touch" real soon. I got very good results almost right away. This technique makes many things so much easier & faster for me. It will be a good seam technique as well. I was aware that you can do this trick for seams, but I didn't know it works for smoothing diffi...

Ah, seems that Hannants in uk works. Though they don't ship it unless you buy a kit. 1/72 tanks here we come!

Kun2112 wrote:I use 91-99% isopropyl alcohol applied to a cotton swab to "sand" Mr. Surfacer

Big thanks! Gotta try that out!

I want some of those, but what would be a good place to get them all the way to Finland???

Alcoholic car window cleaner works very well for cleaning.

No thinning?!? But it's so thick!

Well I used first Tamiya thinner and alcohol based window cleaning stuff. But it didn't mix good. Works fine with water.

Well I just tried the flat recently, unfortunately it really isn't flat. I wonder if I could add Tamiya flatbase in it. I can't say about the thinning ratio, I thin stuff by eye pretty much. I think I thinned it too much though. I am going to try thin it less and add pressure to see if I get it flat...

Less Than Super Ostrich wrote:Those Tamiya weathering kits in the SSM store are awesome. Just used them. They are a little stickier to get the tone to adhere to your model better. Great stuff.

That's nice to hear, I ordered them both a few days ago.

My suggestion is simply to get reference photos of suitable trees and try to imitate them. I would use washes, drybrushing and other stuff to give variation and life to them. Good color choices alone will do a lot.

That sounds a cool diorama, hopefully we'll see pics.

I'd like to know about the oven heating myself...

Kylwell, that's a stunning VF-0S!!! I love it!!! I think your black pre-shade looks so good I will try it myself. Though, I understand what Ter-or is saying also, a dark grey would be the other option. It's possible I go for that too. The only thing I would worry about black pre-shade with white fin...

Pretty good price too!

I guess we have very different airbrushes Sci-fi-bldr. You know, I have Crescendo, it's diffrent from all the other Badgers and has different parts, as far as I know at least. As for the trigger, I don't need to buy anything else than the trigger itself I think. All the Crescendo parts can be change...

sci-fi-bldr wrote:esp. the heads....needles...and LOTS of O-rings....not fun

The same for me with the needless & tips. Which O-rings do you mean btw? I also just noticed my trigger is badly worn out.

The 360 is the most flexible airbrush out there. It's a nice general use brush. Yeah, it sounds pretty amazing, when I read about it now. I guess it's a new model. Any opinions about the Badger 200 NH? I'm really interested to get a single-action airbrush for bigger work (possibly for something els...

Well I have Badger Crescendo. It should be pretty good for a Badger. But I haven't ever even tried any other ab. It's easy to clean and you can change different size needle in few seconds. But I have to say I'm wishing to get a gravitional feed Iwata someday in the distant future. Maybe. More topica...

That might work. Thanks Darth!

I was going to order some bare metal tools also, but they're not sold on that place. I need to think about it. I'm not sure about those shipping costs either. I'm quite n00b to online buying...

I need advice where to buy Microscale products online. International order friendly shop. Bare-metal is not so easy place to get the stuff. I mailed them but didn't get answer, yet at least. But I'd like to know about alternatives. I prefer pay pal payment.

I would appreciate help.

Yes, that's what matters to me too a lot. That they can take handling properly. It's pretty hard to find the "right" supplies sometimes. I'm really looking forward to getting these. I mail them today too. 8)

Are you going to order it from Bare-metal? I just tried, but it seems to be so that international orders must be emailed. I guess I'll do that then. I take 2 bottles of every clear coat, and micro weld, kristal klear & decal set too.

Actually, I was recommended to get Microscale flat clear, by a professional model maker... They sound really promising indeed. I'm very interested to hear about them too. I will order them if people say it's great. Though, I believe the recommendation I got already. Yeah, and the gloss & satin a...

TER-OR wrote: Future is marketed in Europe as Johnson's Kleer.

Actually, it's under different name in every country. Over here it's just Johnson's plastic gloss varnish. In Finnish of course.
Darth, here you can very likely find out what is it in Austria. http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

You don't want to use future. I don't have a problem with that... but why? As for me, I was told today it's so problematic stuff. Until that I was thinking to use it with Tamiya flat base as matt coat. I must say I don't understand why some people keep praising it and others don't. It gives me real...

I tested the Hannants Xtracrylix matt & satin varnishes. They seem to be pretty good stuff. I'm not yet totally sure about the toughness of the surface. But it's very likely I'll be buying bigger bottles of all those varnishes.

Don't mean to hijack the thread, but I'm pretty much in the same situation. I'd like to get opinions about Hannants Xtracrylix varnishes too. Because I happen to have bottles of satin and matt, I just sprayed a little test with them. Are they definitely water proof once dried? I will test it myself ...

Yeah, thanks. I prefer clear coating between different stages myself too.

Little question, can Future be painted over with Tamiya acrylics? I mean, isn't Tamiya's thinner alcohol based and then affect Future coat? Secondly, the same thing about ammonia based masking liquids? Are there ones that aren't ammonia based? Oh, I don't have Tamiyas yet (I have an order coming soo...