Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

May also want to think outside of the box. Plastic pipe from a hardware store, comes in standard dimensions, albeit english ones. For example, I recently bought a very expensive resin kit, and the engine supports exactly fit some plastic pipe I bought at said hardware store, which gives me both a cl...

(IMHO) I believe there aren't any art department blueprints of the AT-AT. I just went through the Rinzler Star Wars: Blueprints book and there are no blueprints of the AT-AT. A bunch for the chicken walker, but only photographs for the AT-AT. My suspicion is that because of the AT-AT stop motion FX ...

Hmm... I may have to learn of this spray on etch-blocker. BTW, for those going with Micro-mark system, the motorized laminator is crucial. There have been hand cranked versions, or even adaptations of pasta makers pressed into service, and the results are disappointing. Even and constant pressure as...

Just elaborating on what Naoto is saying. I've seen many drawings on the internet that are not consistent across views, i.e. the front view has drawn features that should correspond to the same feature in the side view, but do not match. For example, there is a 2 view drawing of the AT-TE (clone wal...

I have had good luck laminating sheet styrene into rods with a particular cross section. For a star, you'll also need to sand your build up to get the star's sharp corners, but should not be too hard. Then cut thin slices to get the pieces you want. Getting them all the same thickness requires eithe...

Trying to not be a crabby naysayer, but at $500, you may want to rethink your budget. There's alot of information you'll need to digest here. I've been researching this topic for a long time. At $500, you will have to be satisfied with a Chinese knockoff. And understand that you'll get what you pay ...

Without sounding like a cranky naysayer, but an egg shape one foot long, you're at the very limits of high resolution model making reproduction. Vac-forms are routinely at these dimensions, but the level of detail with those are limited and their subject matter is often long and skinny, e.g. ships o...

There is also my article: http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/aj_scratch.htm Besides the coating carved foam method, there are a couple of different ways of solving the complex curve problem: 1. carve a male or female mold (balsa or bass wood) and vac-form it. 2. create a prototype/original carving,...

Thanks for the information DonS. As per my usual process for this kind of acquisition, I obsessively collect information until I get a full understanding of the technology. One of the most interesting conclusions, is that MakerBot's latest machine, an attempt to make 3D printing as simple as bringin...

You're not alone with trying to find 1/2 scale kits for your project. From the math I did, an approximately 1/2 scale studio scale Tantive IV worked out to 1/350 scale AND, 1/72 scale tanks kit were well within the 10% fudge factor compared to the 1/35 scale tank kits on the Blockade Runner. So for ...

Appreciate the advice folks. My day job is software development, in the embedded environment, so I'm no stranger to stuff that almost works, needs to be tweaked, sometimes with a hand tool (wink) and trying again. I've been interested in getting computers involved in my model making for about a deca...

I would love to buy/have a 3d printer but the resolution on all the ABS or PLA units is just too far from what I need for parts with any sort of detail. Some of the SLA machines offer high enough resolution, but the build envelope at hi-rez is often quite small. So I outsource. Don, or anyone else ...

I feel obligated to mention that "For Sale" signs and their ilk at big box discounters are styrene and cheaper than Evergreen. And there is a direct relationship between the size of the sign and the thickness, albeit cost per square inch goes up as the sign gets smaller. Still, my go-to th...

Micro-Mark recently announced a desktop Laser-engraver at $2K. Admittedly, I've priced out a system that is compatible with my Mac and not require expensive CAD software, but you'd have Micro-Mark's customer support behind this tool. But I've seen no discussion of it here. Is $2K way too rich? I can...

FWIW, not very many complete engines. I know I collected a set of 1/72 exhausts for a B-58 project. I will assume the same is true for Revell's 1/48 kit. Perhaps trolling on ebay, especially if you can find an assembled kit on the cheap.

All of this takes me back to when I was a tweener, and I'd take my Aurora model of a subject and hold it relative to a picture of, as some like to say, 'the prototype'. I would pose the model until I could dart my eyes between it and the picture and see where there were differences. Admittedly, most...

...trial and error process depending what materials, equipment and budget you have access to. Modular Models has written a critical phrase that the rest of us has assumed, or taken on faith. Its a concept or variation on that theme, I've been repeating for awhile now. Some construction techniques w...

There are a variety of solutions for this problem. The simplest is to buy the small punch & die set from Micro-mark. However, be forewarned, despite being just small pieces of metal rod, a metal plate with holes in it, and a plastic sheet with holes in it, this tool set, on sale, is approximatel...

There is a styrene solution. And there is no shame in not wanting to go this route. The only reason I could or would even try something like this, is I become fond of smaller scale 1:1000 for capital ships (1:144 for airliners) and started honing my skills and sensibilities for very small details. S...

I have been scratchbuilding for the last 20 years. If you start out from the beginning, and on your first effort, to accomplish *everything*, you will fail. First off, I have found that, all things being equal, scratchbuilding the major structure/s is relatively easy to construct. I build up profile...

In light of the scale, and the fact that the parts that are "open" are the Star Wars variants of "Jet Engines" you should be able to still use the frame/rib & skin method. Once built, carefully cut open the intakes and insert suitable air flow shock cones. Might want to simul...

Yep, took stock yesterday and I gots .020 in stock as well. Like the idea of glue tabs, I can see a definate need for that. I started out on a little project yesterday using leftover bits laying on the bench just to exercise the skills a bit....... http://i1353.photobucket.com/albums/q669/shayguru/...

ooooh yeah man that is the ticket........ Love the way the catamarans came up, what didja use to skin those suckers? Thats pretty much what I had envisioned on the viper nose. Truley an inspirational build.... Heres to hoping the packages I have floating around out there hit dirt today so I can sta...

VERY NICE AKIRA!!!!!! Thats the kinda build I like to do!!!! What scale is that in? As for the .040 I wasn't thinking of using it as a wrapper, but doing the curves along the longitudinal axisin 8 facets then using Aves and some sanding to get the final contour around the diameter..... Hopefully th...

I have built both the solid version, albeit, with bulkheads, and the spaces between frames filled with A+B Epoxy (similar to Aves), and have built skinned versions. You *can* do the solid version and still have a cockpit (or landing gear bays, pod bays, etc, etc.) but you must build, at least, the s...

Oh, and if using the plaster & lath method, the frame and skin should be made of at least .030" (.75mm) sheet to help prevent the putty from flexing & cracking while you sand it. The putty should be about a mm (.040") thick, as well or more. Paul What Tankmodeler said. I made this...

I have built many subjects that involve compound curves. Of a variety of dimensions. The poster who recommends carving a 'buck' and vacuforming a shell. But the shell itself has issues, since it does not have structural strength. Great for a car body, not so good for any subject with details hanging...

From what I've heard, a female mold for a vac-form is actually alot like making a regular mold for a resin casting. e.g. 1. build a prototype, understanding that you cannot have any undercuts from an individual axis. 2. make a mold of prototype. 3. drill holes in the mold to provide plenty of source...

I get ideas from a couple of sources. For images of pure imagination, I go to conceptships.blogspot.com.

For confirmation or deeper thoughts that I'm on the right track I go to whatifmodelers.com

And wish I had actually found these sites on my own. Other posters here on S-M recommended them to me.

IMSI sent me their semi-annual sale brochure begging me to spend money on software I don't need (or to upgrade) and there was a link in the email that caught my eye. http://www.turbocad.com/3DPrinters/RapMan31SingleHead/tabid/1936/Default.aspx This 3D printer is in the almost affordable range, albei...