Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

That's brilliant!
I'd never thought of that, for little bits like that I'd always just cupped my hand over it and hoped for the best.

This is why you should click on random threads even if you aren't sure they are of any interest to you.

What if you use something to mask the area around what you want to remove then lightly sand it back. If you're careful you should be able to take a fairly even layer off the uncovered bit before you go through the masking material. If you go over it lightly you should be able to take off a layer as ...

I haven't used them for panel lines but larger areas of scorching, smudges of leaky stuff and just highlighting raised detail and edges. I had some old watercolour pencils that were no good because the lead was broken every 5-10mm. While painting the larger Kazon ship I used a knife to scrape off th...

A pressurised chamber pot?

No actually I don't want to know.

If the fish bowl has a flat base, or top that is six inches in diameter,... Then that six inch diameter circle has an area of about 28.27 square inches. If you were to pull a full vacuum, that would be aproximately 15 lbs per square inch of atmosphere on the circle... Per Square Inch... 28.27 x 15 ...

Unless its something special (higher current) yeah hook up wire is what you want. The stuff I've got is sold as light duty hook up wire its 13 x0.12mm tinned wire strands and um... 26AWG. it was about AUD$4.50 for a 25m roll, and comes in about 8 colours of insulation if you want to make it easy to ...

I'm sure this have been covered before somewhere but I can't seem to find anything other than on vinyl figures which consists of fill the model to prevent movement and use the right primer. What I'm talking about is painting flexible rubber parts which can't be filled and may or may not end up being...

Yep its Pledge One Go, I found it in Coles after reading through this. Though I've only used it a couple of times diluted with some water and with some black ink mixed in, it seems to work just like people say. I haven't really tried anything else with it since the cheapo airbrush I had broke.

I built the hull except for the little red bar that goes across the front of the bridge section and the clear bits, I assembled the wings separately. Sprayed the base colours and painted major sections, then when they dried joined the wings to the hull (scrape off the paint in the joints so the glue...

The paint was Citadel Acrylic, from other discussions here I knew it would come off. It was the varnish I had used as a clearcoat/sealer (see earlier post) that I thought would be a real problem. I wasn't sure if it would be possible to remove it without using something that would dissolve the minia...

An update, I took the test minis out of the simple green after about 3 days and in about 10 minutes had removed most of the paint off of them both with an old toothbrush. I've chucked them back in to get to the paint left in the recessed areas but it looks like this will be the way to go. It even so...

I've got some GW miniaures that I want to strip the paint off, they were painted in Citadel spray undercoat and acrylics but I figure the clear coat will be more of a problem. At the time I was looking for a cheaper alternative to the Citadel spray varnish (almost $20 a can) and hadn't yet discovere...

Depends really, if you just want to run some LED's off of a battery pack then its like Dr Yo said, the hardest part will probably be soldering the connections together and that isn't too hard to learn. If you just want to experiment with some circuits you can even avoid the soldering by using a brea...