Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Hello all! I'm currently building a 1/350 Constitution Class Refit and am using the Paragrafix photoetch set with it. My question is I'm trying to get a certain effect with the Impulse Engine Grills. I actually like the brass color and feel it would fit in. However, I want it to look like its had to...

Hello. I'm trying to build a 1/1000 Refit from Polar Lights. I am trying to decide what sort of glue to use to mount the LEDs. I obviously don't want to fog them and something like hot glue is just too thick. Any suggestions would be appreciated. (I think this is the right board as this has nothing ...

Hello again. I did solve the problem. I did use a Lacquer gloss unintentionally. I nearly did the same thing again trying to use Tamiya pearl Lacquer on another refit. Thanks for all the help to all here.

Ok, I'm building my second 1/1000 Refit, using Tamiya Acrylics. My first one I using a gloss coat to provide a smooth surface and the results were... catastrophic. It practically washed away the paint. Any advice on trying this again or just don't this time? I'm building this as a gift and I'm tryin...

With my local hobby store closing (*sob!*) I'm now looking for a commercially available primer for fine detailed models. I've normally used Tamiya Fine Primer and anything that might be somewhat usable in that fashion and available at Walmart, Meijer, or any Hardware Store would be appreciated. Than...

I'm pretty sure it was to think. I tried using a regular brush and when I cleaned it the paint globbed up even in simple green as opposed to almost immediately dissolving. Thank you all!

Tonight my airbrush (paasche vl double action) was giving an uneven flow, like it was having to spit (my description) about every second or two. I know the pressure was constant and I had properly cleaned it when I finished using it last. My best guess is the paint (tamiya red, X-7) straight out of ...

I'm attempting a large scratch build (1/350 Excelsior from Star Trek) and I'm thinking of modifying my work area. I use portable folding tables as my normal build surface but, with having to scratch build I want to work on a more consistently straight, flat and level surface with as little deflectio...

Unfortunately that's what I thought. I was hoping for a minor miracle. It looks like the best option might be to teach my wife how to tear it down and clean it in case I need to run. Thank you.

Here's my scenario: I work at a hospital and am on call most nights. If I'm called in, I have to be in the ER within 1 hour. I live about 55 minutes away. So, to make it there in time I have to leave real quick. I have hours of time available and I want to work on my projects. However, it takes seve...

Thank you all. I tried a lot of your suggestions, but I think I permanently killed her. :( So, I got a new one to replace her. Same type, so I don't have to get all new equipment, but brand spankin' new. In addition, I'm not a complete neophyte this time so hopefully I'll be better to this one and g...

Wel they stick to each other? Can I put down a layer of acrylic followed by a layer or detail painting of enamel? Thank you!

Would the Simple Green and/or the Windex be enough to disintegrate the seals and gaskets?

Tamiya Arcylics and occasionally Testors Model Masters Acryls. Nothing else.

I have a Paasche VL, double action airbrush. I was cleaning it about a week ago. I thought I left it soak in water (supposed to be only overnight). I left it soak for nearly a week. And it was in a mix of Simple Green and Windex, my normal airbrush cleaning solution. So I rinsed it out best I could ...

On the Excelsior-refit/Enterprise-B? How bad? I mean mildly inaccurate or "they had no idea what they were doing" inaccurate? I am not too concerned about this model, as it's just a test or prototype to work out the bugs for building (either scratch building or who knows) a 1/350 Excelsior...

I'm building several 1/1000 Star Trek starships (a Miranda and an Excelsior Refit-class). I'm going to have to drill it all the windows for the fiber optics I plan to install. My question is if I apply the decals, can they be used as a template to guide my Dremel tool? If so, any suggestions to make...

Years ago I read and article that said the best way to paint a model, if you intend to light it, is to use the following layers to block light from escaping and color the outside (I'll hopefully be able to simulate and sum up what was said): Outside of model Outer paint layer Coat of flat black Coat...

I'm looking for an opinion. Considering the size and detail on small scale kits, like 1/2500 Star Trek ships, would it be better to not use a primer for fear of losing some of the finer details. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thank you.

I'm constructing a paint booth in my basement on the cheap. Is there any advantage or disadvantage to mounting the fan so it draws horizontally across the table as opposed to vertically over the table? Thanks!

I don't know if this is the right thread, but what would be a good brush to remove softened paint. I've had my Excelsior soaking for a week in Simple Green and the paint is now soft enough to remove with a fingernail, which I was able to do for a while. However, it would be so much easier with a bru...

Thanks for all the help!

It'll remove the stain w/o harming the paint. If you want to strip it just get some Simple Green and soak it for a week. Oooh! I'll take that option! The paint is old and was applied with spray cans and I've moved up to an airbrush now! Just so long as the Simple Green won't hurt the styrene, corre...

Ok. So the 409 will remove the paint and mold without damaging the styrene, correct? And the Pine-sol will do the same, but will alter clear styrene, correct? Would these two be my best choices?

Kylwell wrote:Bathroom cleaner.

Spray on, let sit a moment to soak in, then gently spray off with warmish water.

Which ones, for example? Or a better question might be what active ingredient to look for that will kill whatever is there, maybe strip off the paint, and leave the styrene intact? Thanks!

irishtrek wrote:Do the clear parts have mold on them???

They do not appear to

Ok. I have an old ERTL Excelsior kit that I've had in my basement for years. It is unassembled, but I had started some of the painting. I found it a few weeks ago and there is some mold on at least the saucer halves, and most likely on other parts of the kit. So here's my question: how do I get rid ...

A VL can push a lot of paint. You can probably thin the paint as much as 50:50, drop your pressure to 20-24psi and still get decent coverage. What kind of primer did you use? White really needs to go over a white or light gray primer so that you're not building up too much paint in an effort to ach...

This looks like a good, similar topic to enter this discussion. I've a Paasche VL and I'm painting a AMT Refit. I'm using Tamiya white and am going through the stuff like it's going out of style. I read that Tamiya can be airbrushed directly out of the bottle, but I'm gonna go bankrupt buying so man...

So, um... Yeah... I guess it really helps if I remove the protective cap first before trying to use an airbrush... Sorry everyone... I'm a total noob or nugget when it comes to airbrushing... Thanks for all the help, though. My airbrush now works perfectly and is REALLY clean. *Gibbs slaps self*