Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

mech wrote: 4. I like pie.

See? There's your problem. CAKE. The answer is ALWAYS CAKE!




Seriously, it sounds like you do everything I do. Have you tried using pastels chalk to blend the edges in a little bit?

Dunno man, I am sure one of these other cats could help a lot more.

TER-OR wrote:Slick, ain't it?
Oven degreaser doesn't affect it, but alcohol takes it right off.

Yeah, I Was shocked! I had it in degreaser for over a week, nothing. Kept it in rubbing alchohol for 5 minutes, wiped right off.

So 91% alchohol will do it? Just let soak in it? Its been on there for about 6 months as primier. I will give it a shot. Thanks! It should work. The alcohol method works to remove Mr. Surfacer from seams. teh trick is to let the alcohol soften the Mr. Surfacer. A rag with more alcohol on it can the...

I have been letting the model sit in Prestone degreaser all week and its barely made a dent. I just sanded a lot off, but there is a lot to go. Any suggestions? Should I be soaking it in lacquer thinner instead? denatured alcohol works well - either soak the model in the alcohol, or pour some over ...

I have been letting the model sit in Prestone degreaser all week and its barely made a dent. I just sanded a lot off, but there is a lot to go. Any suggestions? Should I be soaking it in lacquer thinner instead?

ok i tried out some of the PNT decals and they seem to be working much better. i gave up on the JT Graphics set when one of them tore and fell apart as soon as i took it out of the water. has anyone else had this problem? the thing literally disintegrated as i tried to get into position to slide of...

ok, i bought a set of JT Graphics Galaxy class decals for my Ent-D kit and i am having a hell of a time putting these things on. No matter what i do they rip and tear, it doesn't matter how gentle or careful i am. i am a little pissed off at the moment, just tore my fifth decal, is there something ...

Kylwellâ„¢ wrote:Well, you can just wait overnight to make sure (I've had to do this when I glopped on too much) or gently press with a fingernail or something to see if it leaves a mark. Mr Surfacer is pretty hard when fully cured so if you can dent it, it's not done yet.

Makes sense! Thank you!

Kylwellâ„¢ wrote:You'll need to use laquer thinner to smooth it.

Set up time for the 500 is a bit longer than the other primers due to it's thickness. For a big glop it takes a few hours. The thinner the coat the faster it'll dry.

Interesting. How will I know when I can procede?

How long does Mr. Surfacer need to set up? In other words, how long do I need to wait to add my primer coat (I am using the 500 for some gap filing). Also, do I just smooth it over with water and a brush?

Let me add a wrinkle here: I only use Acrylics, but Acryl clogs up my airbrush everytime and is a pain to clean up. It is suspposed to be good for blowing right out of the bottle, but I thin it anyways because of teh luck I had. It doesn't matter. I mention this because I blew some acryl this weeken...

Depends on the effect you are trying to create. For a completely solid fill, it doesn't really matter. But if you want some mottling in there, each way will produce different results...and where the spray actually falls (mostly on the tape, overspray only on tape, etc). Hate to say it, but grab a s...

or any weathering where you put down tape to create a fine line, I know the airbrush is supposed to be at a 45 degree angle. Do you brush up the side of the tape, or away from teh side of the tape?

TER-OR wrote:I say give it a try, see how it works!

W'll do. When it is done I will post pics!

Blappy wrote:

justcrash wrote:

Blappy wrote:How big is this part?

You might want to try building up the depression with some Mr.Surfacer 500 and then smoothing it out.

It is a 1400 Romulan TOS BOP if that helps.

OK then the Mr.Surfacer 500 method should work fine.

Do you just brush it on?

Blappy wrote:How big is this part?

You might want to try building up the depression with some Mr.Surfacer 500 and then smoothing it out.

It is a 1400 Romulan TOS BOP if that helps.

Ok, I THINK this is what is called a "seam". It is on the nacelles of a resin kit I am working on. It sort of has a dip in the circle. I've tried sanding it down even but can't quite get it. Is putty the way to go? I have Aves Magic Sculpt, would that work? I've made a crude image in illus...

Several gradations of paint colors - gradually whiter might work best, that way you can ensure a smooth transition. The 360 should give you a pretty good line. I was thinking of doing the white underneath, and then gradually decreasing the color from the nacelles until I hit the tip of the bussard ...

As the big dog said, it's probably flash. But, you can still do it. I assume you have a DA airbrush, and not an SA?You need to be able to regulate paint flow as well as airflow. Go get a few ping pong balls, and cut them in half. No, you won't be able to see your results well, but it will still all...

kylwell wrote:US Plastics. Yeah the minium length is 6 feet, but they're cheap. And you can get acrylic cabachones too.

Thank you! What do you guys use to cut them with? What kind of glue (if used) do you use?

Where do you guys buy your aryclic rods for displaying your models. I have a few I don't wish to drill, I just want to set them on some Rods.

I bought some of the new colours two days ago, while their old paints were all enamels the new ones are acrylics. Haven´t tried them yet but they look very nice and the cap of each tin is designed as a small bowl for mixing colours. So, what´s better, acrylics or enamels? A matter of preference, ...

kylwell wrote:He's not talking about the paneling but the bussards.

Bingo! Thanks!

http://www.starshipmodeler.org/gallery8/ks_ent.htm

Specifically, the bussards. I've seen others too, where they kind of haze from an orange into a white. I think it looks cool, but I have no idea how to do it.

Doesn't 2 whole bottles add up to something less than 6 bucks? The only time I've seen Acryl is in an airbrush set I got. I don't think there is a real equivalent, Testors have a far broader range of acrylic paint than do Tamiya. Then again I much prefer Tamiya paints. Can't get them around here th...

Can anyone maybe give me a "close enough" recommendation for a Tamiya equivalent of camo gray and light sea gray? I am doing my 1/1400 runabouts and I hate to buy 2 whole bottles of paint for those tiny things.

I put some micro mask on a base display that I primered, base coated and futured over a year ago, and masked off what was left, sprayed, pulled off the micro mask, and the paint underneath was soft and came off with it as well. The micro mask was only on it 2-3 hours tops.
What did I do wrong?

That is a perfect explanation, thanks Zombe. What brand of pastel chalk do you use and is there an online source for it? I went to a couple art supply stores and all they carry are the oil-based pastels and I'm pretty sure these won't work for this technique. I have a full artist's set of "Alp...

TER-OR wrote:You might have applied too much, or didn't have a clear coat. I highly recommend overcoating your paints - even gloss ones with a fine coat of Future. I can see how solvaset might be a bit rough, but I use bot types on acrylics without problems.

I probably applied too much.

So how many people put a gloss coat on their base coat to seal it, before they do the finer detail painting? I usually do and I found my next set of colors has nothing to grip (takes more coats). However, the future allows me to (quickly) correct any mistakes I may make with some water and a toothpi...