Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

I mostly lurk. Occasionally post. I guess I will make it official.

**raising hand**

Here!

So I heard that Quick Shine is a good replacement for Future for dipping canopies after sanding and polishing them. I bought some last night and it seems cloudy and not quite the same as Future, and when I tried it on a spare canopy and vacuformed canopy, it beaded up on the sanded surface and made...

I'll be there again, manning tables 29 & 30 (right next to TAG Team/Iwata). Stop by and say "Hi". I might even have something you just can't live without.

Mike
Rhino's Hobby Tools & More

Great job, John! I was starting to go into withdrawals.

I just looked at the link you provided that uses https: and if you look very closely, the scales are there. The problem is, the text is black on a dark blue background which makes it almost invisible. The non-secure address has white text for some reason. Anyway, the data is there, just REALLY hard ...

Is this the list you're looking for?

http://www.starshipmodeler.com/trek/trekscales.cfm

The included Tamiya collets measure 5.97 mm / 0.235 inch in diameter, while the Dremel collets are 4.34 mm / 0.171 inch in diameter. The conical tip is what allows other brands of collets to work in the Handy Drill. When you tighten down the chuck, the conical shape helps center bit as well as tigh...

When you say they are too small, to you mean the shafts are too short for the chuck to tighten down on them?

I personally have this set in addition to the Dermel collets and they work in my Tamiya drill and router

The Handy Drill runs at about 800 RPM (due to the gearing) and the Router runs at about 1400 RPM. I have used both for drilling plastic going as small as a #80 bit. The trick is to place the drill bit exactly where you want the hole, then hit the trigger. The drill bit should pull itself into the pl...

Thanks for all the replies. I had assumed (my bad...) that putting the decals down on gloss paint without a gloss clear coat would have been sufficient. Live and learn. It was a good thing this was mostly a test build anyway. It makes a nice 6 foot model, but taught me a lot of the issues involved w...

I have finally gotten around to building the 1/1000 PL TOS Enterprise kit and I am having a bad problem with the decals silvering. They went down on top of a pretty good gloss coat of paint and I used Micro Set, Micro Sol and Mr. Mark Softener, and none of them seem to affect the clear carrier film....

Depending on how deep the scribed line is, I will run a line of Tamiya Thin glue down the scribed line. It melts all the excess back into "trench" and leaves a nice clean scribe line. Unfortunately, if the scribed line is very shallow, it can fill in your scribing efforts. However, this ca...

Does anyone have any comments on Gorilla Glue?

I know it foams as it cures, but I am interested in other people's experiences.

irishtrek wrote:Got any photos?

Not yet...

irishtrek wrote:And is it an original series base star?

Yes.

The "warping" is actually more of a slight twist in the saucer halves. Very fixable, but as I stated earlier, I am concerned that there is enough of a twist to cause the seams to pop over time.

I am in the process of constructing a RM Cylon Basestar, and the saucer halves are slightly warped. Gluing the saucer in sections should allow me to allign the parts that need alligning :?: but I am curious as to which would be a better gluing method. On styrene, I love Tamiya Thin, and use it for j...

Ive have one in my hands to buy on several occasions, but I just cant seem to pull the trigger. No pun intended? :D Some paints, mostly acrylics seem to resist going down smoothly with a brush (I have never had good results with Tamiya acrylics and a paint brush) where using an airbrush can lay dow...

Supposedly, the car guys use it all the time. Nice cheap source of enamel paint that comes in a lot of interesting colors. Thin with acetone, and away you go!

The issue I have with laquer thinner is the Acryl paint forms little balls or globs when I put the laquer thinner in the color cup. I use a stenciling brush to swish the thinner around in the color cup and loosen the paint off the sides of the cup. But the laquer thinner doesn't seem to break down t...

Any recommendations on what blow through my airbrush to clean out ModelMaster Acryl?

I have tried isopropyl alcohol, Windex, water, lacqer thinner, Testors Universal Airbrush Cleaner (#50497) and EZ Air Environmentally Safe Airbrush Cleaner.

Bottom line is, none of them seem to work for crap.

If you have a Michael's or Hobby Lobby, check there. Try and find
something other than the Badger brand though. I'm sure it works fine, it
is just incredibly expensive. Or check an art supply store as well.
Something that carries airbrushing supplies.

Good Luck.
Mike

I had a similar problem with my Iwata. Much like Vince's statement, I
had air leaking around the o-ring that seals the air cap to the body.
Once I tightened the air cap onto the body, I had no more problems with
air bubbling back into the cup.

I had a similar problem with my Iwata. Much like Vince's statement, I
had air leaking around the o-ring that seals the air cap to the body.
Once I tightened the air cap onto the body, I had no more problems with
air bubbling back into the cup.