Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Here
( what are we all doing here though )

Yep got the Squl error sending the original, and reply. Otherwise everything g worked fine.

Just sent you one. It is showing up in my outbox.

Well from the parts used, and the performance achieved I was impressed.

DIY airbrush!

https://youtu.be/ni4o_o5582Y

Talk about frugal airbrushing, but damned if that thing ain't impressive!

Oh you don't have a compressor you say? Got you covered there too.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0bnA_zfJ_m8&t=4s

I've used Easy-Off many times, Never on anything that old mind you, but it's never hurt the plastic at all. I just put the pieces in a Margarine tub and sprayed the stuff on till I couldn't see the pieces anymore, covered the container and let it sit. after a couple of days a toothbrush was all that...

I have a respirator and using it ain't no biggie for me.
If I could get my hands on Methylene Chloride (Dichloromethane) as easily I'd snap it up, but alas 'tis rarer stuff that.

I just use MEK -$17.00 (CAN) for 750 ml from just about any hardware store.

Thanks Wug. Actually it was Mr Budzick's video that got me thinking about them. just looking for anyone's hands on experience with them.

Thinking of getting an HPLV mini spray gun for large models, base coats and the like. Anyone here use one of those, or have experience with them?

Just Stunning!

I posted that back on Sep 18th in this thread.
http://www.starshipmodeler.net/talk/vie ... 6&t=124834

Great video showing a technique for how to make home made 'decals/transfers' with regular printer and regular paper.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IRgepSBdJLs

Wow! That is a really nice glow, it's a shame about the shrinkage.

No spam posts in <thunderdome> or <marketplace> . . . interesting.

As far as it's transparency from what I've seen the thinner you make it the more transparent the final product is. My understanding of the liquid is that it is used to alleviate the small whitish cracking that can occur when the clay dries. . If you are going to add colour to the clclay it is typica...

Have you checked out Sukeru-Kun transparent resin clay? It is not clear, more of a 'frosted' transparent look, but it does air dry. Chas, thank you so much! You are pointing me to so many products that are easily available to me. Typical feedback I get is usually suggesting stuff that is not availa...

Yeah this stuff softens in hot water so any material that generates too much heat when it cures won't do well. Now that I've said that I wonder if fiberglass resin might work as a casting material, can't remember if it heats up when it cures. It won't be water clear, so probably won't work for your ...

Searching for it leads me to something called SSP, but that involves a powder to activate it. From the video I saw, it seemed like Alteco Epo Putty is not as sticky as Tamiya 2-part epoxy putty. SSP-HG!!!??? I've wanted to get my hands on that stuff for years! I've seen it used by so many Japanese ...

That's the same material as OYUMARU that I've been using for a few years. I'm surprised you hadn't already discovered this stuff Greg. I first learned of it from seeing it being used on quite a few Japanese modelers' blogs. You might want to check around locally as it will most likely be cheaper for...

Stationary dept of your local Dollar Store. look for clear plastic page dividers in various colours.
Like this
http://www.staples.ca/en/Cardinal-Multi ... CA_1_20001

But don't pay that much. Check the dollar stores first.

At the very back of the airbrush body is there a knurled knob that tightens and loosens? If so that is probably what limits the travel of the trigger/needle assembly. Try loosening it ans see if that doesn't return things to what you are use to.

My results were not so good. It seems that every time I try and peel the parafilm off after painting the paint chips off as well. It's as if the paint doesn't want to stick to the resin.:( I've tried it twice with the same result. I did use a brand new blade so I would get the cleanest cut. I'm tem...

If you are using it as the final coat you may want to flatten it a bit (Tamiya flat base works) otherwise your ship will loose a lot of the sense of scale and end up looking like something from the 'Fast and Furious' franchise.

Thanks Joseph.
Did you get the metal or wood working Taig?

skymods wrote:Do you already have the mill?

No, but the versatility of this set up has me intrigued enough to be thinking about it.

For the Lathe you need to have the MILL:
http://vanda-layindustries.com/index.html
scroll down about one third of the page.

http://vanda-layindustries.com/html/mil ... ories.html
Scroll down to bottom of page.
Anyone have one of these? Tried one? What's it like?
Barring direct experience Perhaps someone more familiar with lathes could provide some guesses on performance based on the info provided in the link?

Quick and dirty mold making putty. Anyone try it?
http://alumilite.net/ProdDetail.cfm?Cat ... ld%20Putty

From what I saw fro google I suspected as much, hence the last part of my previous post.

Have you looked at the testors MM 2038?