Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

A while back I visited a Facebook group that had files for parts for detailing Star Wars models and for scratch building them - anyone know the group I speak of?

What about model warship parts for scratch building the studio models?

okay. i use to lightly sand (with fine wet/dry sand paper) just scratch the surface and also to make micro scratches to help wick the glue further under the surfaces vs just having the edges being the only part being glued. on larger areas, i'd drill little pin-head holes and put a drop in it - sort...

I do apply way more of the cement than I would for a model kit, like 3-4 heavy coats in quick succession, until the surfaces are gooey. -Rog not sure if that'll work if i use armor plating from .010" sheet i thought maybe you just gave the surfaces a light sanding, held the part in place and g...

i have some of that on the bench now, i'll have to give it a try

do you lightly sand the surfaces before gluing?

thought it was a light saber at first

the old stand by orange filled tube of glue? would be nice as i was thinking of some .010" and .020" styrene (evergreen) armor plating on pvc

any chance of seeing some pictures?

(thinking now why i was thinking of ABS????.....)

i was looking to build a few things, but damn.....

and it's not like Home Depot or Lowe's sells pvc sheeting

(i think i asked this a while ago but) is there a good glue to bond ABS plastic sheeting to PVC? i'm having one of those creative moments again that requires gluing ABS plastic to PVC. it would have to be something really good but be workable long enough to position a piece of the ABS sheeting after...

and they are?

nothing wrong with adding an extra splash of the catalyst to the mix, specially in the winter

gyro-caps?

would you be willing to show up what your mastering? we might have some other ideas that may help you in your build

i'm taking the Sith battleship master out of the box again but i need some small radar arrays say from small/tiny warships.

anyone have any of these warship parts collecting dust that i could have?

i use that Plastruc liquid cement but i use a fine paintbrush to do so. when i glue parts together, i like to give the surfaces a light sanding (fine wet/dry sandpaper) and then put the parts together and then touch the brush along the edges. this will give you a much cleaner glue seam vs using that...

that's what i ended up doing. i started a small stash saving them in a small measuring cup only to bump it and lost them all to the basement floor but i still have the molds. i made them in different sizes via pin head size and pushing into the clay

i would think that would crack/crumble/break-up after a while

if he's doing just resin, that the same rubber material can be used as it doesn't need to be vulcanized and yes, centrifugal force could be your enemy - staying with a pressure pot would be simplere

and i need to find Vulcanize rubber (in it's liquid form)

why use the bumper primer? i would just use a regular automotive primer, just make sure you don't grab the sanding primer as it's be thicker and have a rougher texture to it.

i use regular auto primer for everything, plastics and metals, non of that water base primer here

the question needing to be asked is, do you have the rest of all of that, that these additional parts work with

google's asking for log in

ah, the mother ship

nice! now to see what i need

for the mast i have .032 brass wire that is perfect to build them from, but i can't find any small tubing that i can build it up with

so - any ideas for making the mast?

interesting...

after i posted this, i was thinking of something that looked like a tooth pick with a tiny sucking cut on the end - not sure if thats a real thing

i am looking to use some bits from some of my defective frets but how? i know i'll be using superglue to attach them, but these parts are tiny. normally with the plastic bits, i'd just tap the end of my hobby knife into the bit and either hold it in place and use liquid cement or dab it into a spot ...

if you have a very steady hand and have a source of heat (small torch) you could take a regular steal nail, file it square (or see if you can fine 1mm sq. steel stock - maybe hobby stock?) heat it up just a bit and melt it through the hull, then clean off the surfaced where it melted through ..........

well i know Krylon isn't effected by paintball paint, so that's good to use i'll have to look at that glue and i currently am trying to get that paper brick site to load up to see how that is. the pre-made surfaces, do you mean like Plastruct (sp?) where you can buy it by the sheet? i had thought ab...

ya, that's a mouthful and i'm not even sure i worded it right............ okay, here's my thinking - i am looking to make sore large 1:6th scale structures for the r/c tank club and i have been looking at some (scaled) paper craft structures that look like they might be practical (to build) and be s...

that spray sounds interesting, maybe regular (non sanding) primer - after a light sanding of the plastic sheeting first

i can't see using address labels as once they stick to something i don't know of any that come off easily, some don't like coming off even if placed on packaging tape

didn't think of photo paper, but that's a bit too thin for my (current) likes. as to the surface being too smooth, i all ready thought of taking my small sanding wet/dry pad pad and going over the surface where i'll be printing on (i'll know what area as i'll be doing test runs on paper first to mak...

a reply from Epson: Dear Christopher, Thank you for contacting Epson regarding your Epson WorkForce WF-2540. In response to your concern please be advised that, the use of transparencies is not supported with this printer due to the type of ink that it uses. The type of ink that this printer uses wi...