Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Sounds like that would be unrealistically bright. Even regular LEDs need to be toned down for realism, even for fiber optics.

I've used them to prime, and the white is the only white I've found to do a good job.

You can also use a bigger resistor to tone down the light, saves battery too.

Mr. Badwrench wrote:The only trick to it is patience. Instead of trying to cut a single piece of tape to mask the whole thing at once, use many small pieces, butted into the corners one at a time. Spend a couple hours masking, and two minutes painting, ain't that always the way?

Now that's a great tip, thanks!

They're molded together, one piece, like steps, with ribs molded in too. The trick is painting the steps butted against the ribs. Masking would be very difficult; you'd have to make a tiny stair-shaped mask or something. There must be some trick to it...

Anyone have any tips for painting the louvres on the Cylon Raider kit?

Hmmm, that makes a lot of sense!

Looking at the 30th Anniv. Revell Viper, the main display is set up for lighting. I figure I'd epoxy a flat top LED (green?) to the back of the clear part, over which the display decal goes. Howver, from behind I'm thinking there would be a light in the nose area. Would this be an issue? Could I jus...

Yes, if they're wired in series. Here are some good sites I've hearned from:

http://www.theledlight.com/ledcircuits.html
http://ledcalc.com/
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/mh_led.htm
http://white-leds.co.uk/led-wiring-guide.htm

Cross posted in BSG viewtopic.php?t=62763