Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

I didn't try it with paint but it'll blow air through an airbrush below 5 psi.

I just picked up the Tooty model, with tank, from No-Name. Yes the No-Name brand. I can't seem to make a link to Amazon for it, but it goes for about $115, pressurizes up to 60 psi, and is very quiet. Supposedly around 60 decibels. It's quieter than my old old Pencraft compressor anyway. Which only ...

gsb5w wrote: ↑Tue Feb 27, 2018 7:29 pm Somebody might make one.

Uhm ... Grex, Badger, Iwata, Paasche. Lots and lots of knockoffs.

Realistically dual action airbrushes are more often used like a single action. It's not that one is so much better than the other, but you can get more out of a dual action when modulating air and paint. And yes there are airbrushes than can lock the triggers but that's more for consistency than a m...

Can the forum text be made a bit larger? It seems a bit small in 1920 X 1080.

It's under the Pledge line now. Something like Pledge with future shine on the label and make sure it's says acrylic.

Can't say about airbrushing it as I haven't tried to.

Primer as the final(ish) coat? Yeah sure. If it's a bit rough for your taste just buff it with a paper towel. Clear coat when you feel you need to.

Adding a regulator would be the inexpensive option. Being able to turn down the air pressure and moving closer to your work may be what you need. Granted I can't say how hard that would be for your situation but I'd think all you would need is some basic plumbing bits. While I have an Iwata, it's a ...

I really haven't found any painting differences. Yes there are examples of bad resin pieces that misbehave but for the most part just wash and prime like any plastic kit. Resin is heavier and there can be sagging issues.

Well, disregarding the spelling bit. I just bought a couple of eyedroppers at the local store. Just a suggestion as opposed to the whole mailed from another country thing.

I think that happens a lot as airbrushes age. All the removing and replacing messes with the threads. If the cap is clean, try rubbing some wax from a candle over the threads to seal it up. I've borked one of mine up enough where I had to buy a replacement part. I don't know what badger calls the pa...

Black is a good base for some metallics.

I think I remember something about clear coats yellowing which was easier to see on white paint. It was a car model related thing and they used car wax instead.

1. Less than you think you'll need. Especially with a gravity feed. Yeah that's vague but you'll begin to get a feel for it. I don't think I've ever used a full cup for a paint session.

2. I use plain old glass eyedroppers as they clean up easily.

My old paasche (vsr90) came with a flyer showing them painting fingernails with it. I thought it odd enough to show it to the ladies at work.

Rustoleum sandable automotive primer. Rattle cans can be found at walmart for 4 or 5 bucks. Goes on light, dries fast.

I realize people can get hung up on brand names and that's fine. After all use what works for you. However I use rustoleum or krylon sandable automotive primer. You can pick it up everywhere in larger cans for less cost. It goes on light and dries fast. And it's pretty much the exact same stuff as t...

I prefer to go the wet sand and car wax route myself. You can polish up your flat blue but it might not be what you were looking for.

I'm not sure if it's the same thing but I use Krylon Matte Finish 1311. It goes down decently and looks ok. I've used it on various spray can paints, model master and craft paint without any problems. I don't like the Krylon gloss though, it doesn't go down smooth.

Rustoleum sand able automotive primer. Which I've used on many kits Krylon metallic gold as a base coat for everything but the skin. Model Master acryl for color coats. Testors steel for the blade. Krylon matte for the skin and future for the rest of the gloss coat. As for the technique, if you have...

Well I was planning on posting a finished kit, however after my final clear coat (future) I found this. http://s320.photobucket.com/albums/nn337/Vetter96/?action=view&current=cutey1.jpg http://s320.photobucket.com/albums/nn337/Vetter96/?action=view&current=cutey2.jpg I was trying a technique...

I ordered some new parts. It's usable except for the fine control stuff.

Don't know how I didn't see it but I found the back of the nozzle cap wasn't totally smooth any more. Some gentle work with a file looks like it took care of the air backing up into the cup. It still sputters a bit but not as bad. Guess I'll let the body and nozzle cap soak if I can get the packings...

I have a paasche vsr 90 (gravity feed, dual action) that "sputters" and blows air into the cup, even with water. The nozzle cap is snug and everything seems clean. I'm trying to use a paint that clogs up my Iwata and this has a larger needle and tip. Yeah I know use another paint but I'd l...