Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

I just noticed the robot from MST3K, Tom servo? And Croooow. I'm also a fan of the artwork. Only thing that bugs me is that I'm pretty sure the one droid's arm is in the wrong layer. It should be behind the torso layer, I would think. As a fellow graphic designer I 100% understand how that happens ...

No avatar pics?

Now I actually have to read usernames.

Keep in mind that at certain points in time this site was open to the internet so many of us were just lurkers. I know I was on here around 2000-2001, but didn't join until after it was members only.

I don't think its the plastic. Styrene is styrene, but I suppose different companies may have had "blends" of styrene used for their kits that may have either "some or more ABS added to it or acrylic"? I'm not sure? I don't know if they did that or really what other plastics the...

There's not a huge difference between ABS and plain styrene (that's what the "S" stands for, after all). In general you can treat it like a tougher version of kit styrene. I've always had it sand, glue, and paint just fine.

For very quiet you're probably on the right track with the cake decorating type. There are a lot out there, even Duff Goldman has one. I was looking at the pro Paasche compressors, like the DC850R, but they stopped making them I think. I've also been wanting to try making one out of a refrigerator c...

Well, it was started 2 years ago Right, and nobody responded for 2 years... Normally threads disappear after a month, so it was surprising. I see now that there are old threads in the Scratchbuilding subforum. Guess this section is spared from the incessant ax. Looks like Scratcht_Modding was scare...

How is this a post from two years ago?

Here's a good short video about XTC-3D. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GGk7PYkAl_w It's basically a resin that you can pour on 3D prints to smooth it out. It's kind of a niche product, either if you want to keep the raw print without painting or for like costume armor. But it is sandable. Also, I'v...

You guys are on three different topics here... The OP is talking about using filler primer on 3D prints, or other suggestions for this specific scenario. OP: I would go with a filler primer as you originally thought, unless you think you might want to try one of the 3D print "smoothers," s...

Oh yeah, she thicc. An alternative would be Duplicolor filler primer. Just keep in mind that they will both start to fill in details if used heavily. Great for print lines, not so good for fine panels.

Are you wanting to add to the stock paint or completely repaint over it?

On vinyl, I use an automotive primer designed for car plastic trims. I've heard that you can use enamels over this without damaging the vinyl, but I've never had the courage to try. I did not have good luck with that myself. It seems that the chemicals that interact with each other will eventually ...

No, sadly enamel is enamel. Your observation is correct that you can alter the drying time by using lacquer thinner or acetone instead of mineral spirits, but that's about all you can accomplish. Having made the enamel on vinyl mistake, I don't touch enamels with a ten foot pole when it comes to vin...

Ah, that makes sense. I thought they looked suspiciously similar.

seam-filler wrote: ↑Mon Sep 13, 2021 2:57 am Tamyia also do a router - (item number 74042) - has anyone given that a go?

I wonder what the difference is

I've had mixed success with sprue goo. If it dries then it's great, but if it doesn't then it seems to stay "rubbery" for quite some time. My advice is to use the hottest solvent you have so it evaporates quickly. Pure solvent is definitely better than, say, regular Testor's liquid cement....

I prefer filling with CA glue and re-scribing. Mainly because CA is hard so it's going to be a nice crisp line. Which is the problem with some putties, they can flake off or they're so soft that the scriber just wants to follow the old line. Other options: Fill with stretched sprue or sprue goo, whi...

Duplicolor Metalcast sprays will for sure. You can definitely decant them for use in an airbrush.

I would imagine the Tamiya clear colors will as well, but I haven't tried them personally.

It depends on the metal. If it's pot metal of some kind then forget it, you'll just end up melting it. If it's aluminum then you won't hurt it but I'm not sure you can get it to change color. I can't recall ever seeing that happen to aluminum. Steel or titanium, on the other hand, are really easy to...

Okay, so perhaps it's a question of spelling. I've never heard anyone pronounce it "gree-bull", only "gree-blee." As such, I wouldn't think to spell it any way other than greeblie. Spelling it differently than you would think it's pronounced is asking for trouble. I'm looking at ...

Greebles?? Who says that?

I would agree that "greeblies" is Star Warsian...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dncRHH9f6MI

Probably a Canadian says greebles, they say all kinds of weird stuff.

Dykem is a Prussian Blue stain - often known as "engineer's blue" and is used in metalwork to make marking-up easier. It is non-permanent on metal and polishes off very easily. The same cannot be said for skin or clothing and without due care it is a great way of ending up looking like a ...

Dykem layout fluid is very good for that. It comes in a spray or you can buy the bottle and airbrush it. Also comes in red, if the need arises.

You're welcome!

TLDR: I would use either of those products wherever I didn't need the properties specific to Future (clarity & gloss) in order to prolong my supply of NLA Future, such as a base for decals or, in my case, altering the properties of paint without watering it down. I'll keep an eye out for other s...

I ended up getting both of those products just because I always like a good taste test. Interestingly, they're both similar to each other in that they come out milky like Mod Podge, rather than clear like Future. The Weiman doesn't have as much of a smell but Quick Shine smells strongly. Both smell ...

Apparently Quick Shine has been used quite a bit in modeling so I'm gonna try some.

Anyone tried these? If not, I might. Both are water-based and look promising.

Depending on where you live your only option is likely disposal. I worked at a paint store that was also a PaintCare site, and per regulations we weren't allowed to take any paint for recycling that wasn't in its original container (which probably has more to do with hazmat transportation laws than ...