Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

They work fine in enamels though. I use BBs in my paint too.

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It softens the decals so that they conform better to irregular surfaces.

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I don't know the brand, but I've seen decal printing paper in the model section at Hobby Lobby. They have white and clear.

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Paint is something that I try not to be cheap on. It's worth buying the good stuff IMO.

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big-dog wrote:VERY carefully applied epoxy should work, hold anything pretty much forever, and doesn't fog.

That's what I use on clear parts. I mix a little on a scrap of styrene and then use a toothpick to apply a drop where needed, which will really help you control where it goes.

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TER-OR wrote:This is why I use Aves Epoxy putty for most tasks. Frequently I won't need to sand.

I just recently started using Aves products. I'm pretty sure the squadron putty that I have on hand will dry out before I use any more of it. Should have switched years ago. Aves is fantastic stuff.

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I'd guess the problem is the compressor too. Have you tried spraying just thinner or water to see if it still sprays the same? Just trying to eliminate the possiblity of the problem being that the paint isn't thinned enough.

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darth_daniel wrote:I´m afraid Revell colours (which are the only ones to fit into my airbrush)

I don't understand this statement. What kind of airbrush will only use paint from one manufacturer?

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Without clear coat they should come off by simply holding a damp cloth on them for a bit until they soften enough to come off. If you intend to strip the paint too, then don't worry about the decals, they'll come off with the paint.

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Thanks, I'll look for that next time I'm in the hobby shop.

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Is there something that can be added to Future to make it flat or at least matte? Th reason I ask is that someone recently mentioned in another thread something about giving a model a falt coat of Future.

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I suspect that the problem may be that since your first coat was not terribly heavy, it ended up being slightly translucent. This allows the color under to show through somewhat, effectively lightening the color. Your second coat, going on top of the first did not have this translucency, and so appe...

what can he use as an adheasive that will either dry clear or white that won't react badly to 'baking soda' Diluted white glue?? Elmers and water. That's exactly what I've used for years to make snow, diluted white glue and baking soda. Looks great. Also works well for making pavement, but of cours...

Stingray, if you're in OKC go out to Regal plastics on Reno near Morgan road. You can also buy styrene there in the 5 foot sheets, that'll last you awhile. That's where I got the glue and applicator bottles. Actually, I'm in the Tulsa area, but I've found a local plastics shop that sells styrene in...

TER-OR wrote:http://www.spacemodelmania.com/models/w ... chlist.doc

There's my decal watchlist.

Interesting read. Thanks.

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Gonzowerke wrote: I want instant gratification and can't have it!!!

That's the only part of this hobby that I don't like. When I'm really rolling, I hate to have to wait for paint to fully cure. That's why I usually have a couple kits going at once.

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woozle wrote:... drill holes in the wings and through the body and put a coat hanger through it. .

Paper clips also work well if the parts are too small for coat hangers.

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I never see those syringes at generic hobby shops like Hobby Lobby. You have to get them at a shop that specializes in scale models.

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I use yellow 3M vinyl striping tape.

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Is this resin or styrene? I always use commercial mold release remover on resin. Those kits always seem to have more or stronger mold release agents on them.

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Generally speaking I'll dull down the finish either a little or a lot depending on the model.

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Chalk pastels are available at Hobby Lobby as well.

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