Preventing spray can "orange peel"

Callandor · Post by **Callandor** » Mon Oct 27, 2008 9:54 am

What is the best way to prevent an "orange peel" texure with spray cans? I have been able to accomplish it on occasion, but it seems like you have to apply the paint at the perfect thickness which is hard to accomplish on larger models. Suggestions?

Gonzowerke · Post by **Gonzowerke** » Wed Nov 19, 2008 8:34 am

Go to a dollar store or I-love-china-more-than-AmericaMart and get a cheapie can to practice with. You will need to find the happy medium of distance from target VS application rate. The farther you are, the worse the peel gets as the paint that is in aerosol form will actually start to dry the second it leaves the can. Too close, and you fill in detail. Other than that, you can wetsand with 2000/2500 grit. Or, like I just did on a model I'm working on now where I got huge peel from my clear Lacquer, you can take a piece of old sheet, or pillowcase, any fabric with a smooth,tight weave, and dampen it with the thinner for the particular paint you are using. Note I said "Dampen", you don't want rivulets of thinner running down your model! Then just use fast, light passes of your damp cloth and it will smooth it down. It worked great on my 1/1000 Remora,but on something bigger may leave streaks, I don't know.

seam-filler · Post by **seam-filler** » Wed Nov 19, 2008 8:37 am

Orange peel can also be caused by not shaking the can hard enough for long enough. And don't spray for too long - pressure reduces as the can gets colder.

Kolschey · Post by **Kolschey** » Wed Nov 19, 2008 8:54 am

Weather is also a consideration. I've found that if the ambient temperature is too cold, you will get some rather particular "crackle" effects on the finished piece.

Stu Pidasso · Post by **Stu Pidasso** » Wed Nov 19, 2008 9:10 am

Here's what I do, works almost every time:

Warm the can up. I have a small hot plate on my bench I keep warm water in. I warm up the can, and then spray in light, even coats. Works both for the 50 cent Wal-Mart primer to the 7 dollar Tamiys cans.

Alvis 3.1 · Post by **Alvis 3.1** » Wed Nov 19, 2008 3:16 pm

What I do...

Step 1: Shake can for 60 seconds
Step 2: Place can in a sink of very hot tap water. leave in for about 2 minutes, or long enough to heat up the can.
Step 3: Shake can again for 30 seconds. If it fells like it's cooled off a lot, replace in water for 30 seconds or so.
Step 4; Hold at least 18" away from the model when spraying, light dusting coats preferrable.

Remember, don't try to rush it. Patience is the key.

Alvis 3.1

modelnut · Post by **modelnut** » Wed Nov 19, 2008 3:29 pm

Once I did that hot water trick and the concave bottom of my can --- TOINK! --- became convex!

Guess I got it too hot.

-Leelan

Newbie Doobie · Post by **Newbie Doobie** » Wed Feb 11, 2009 8:48 pm

Warming the paint can is good idea,but not hotter than to the touch. Do not try to achieve full hide right away,but coat it in several passes. Spray it lightly in three passes. Then,let it dry for a couple of minutes before spraying it again. Do this until you have even coverage,then spray it one last time evenly to avoid lap marks created by multiple passes. This always works for me.