Is there a good way to smooth out visible brush strokes?

Callandor · Post by **Callandor** » Thu Jan 01, 2009 6:49 pm

Since I do not have an airbrush, I have to brush-paint my models. Most of the time, the brush strokes are not too visible, but occassionally the paint will have very noticable brush strokes when I am done. Is it possible to smooth these out, perhaps by buffing the area with a rag with a bit of thinner? Do you guys have any suggestions to prevent the strokes from being too visible to begin with?

photoguy · Post by **photoguy** » Thu Jan 01, 2009 7:34 pm

1. Buy an airbrush

or

2. Use a retarder medium to slow the drying time. This should give the paint time to level out before it gets tacky.

shotgunlebowski · Post by **shotgunlebowski** » Thu Jan 01, 2009 8:49 pm

Use some very very fine sandpaper to help with that. Just go over it very lightly

hackercat13 · Post by **hackercat13** » Fri Jan 02, 2009 12:20 am

Whatever mixing or thinning meduim you are using (water, acrylic flow release, ect.) add 1 drop of future floor wax. It self-levels, and makes brush strokes a thing of the past. It can make your paint appear a bit glossy, but I assume you dull coat everything when done anyway.
Chris

Callandor · Post by **Callandor** » Fri Jan 02, 2009 2:31 pm

Would the curing time of the base coat underneath effect the top coat as well? The area with which I had the most trouble had been painted with a base coat 2 or 3 days earlier, but the sections that had been painted much earlier have done better. What is a good retarding medium to use for Testor/MM enamels?

shotgunlebowski · Post by **shotgunlebowski** » Fri Jan 02, 2009 3:03 pm

Eh Maybe if it is really cold where you are. I would guess that 3 days later the paint would be pretty well cured. Could be the brush you are using too thats causing the prolems. Did you prime the kit?

Can you take a photo of what it's turning out like?

John

Newbie Doobie · Post by **Newbie Doobie** » Fri Feb 13, 2009 8:35 pm

Do you have a harbour freight store near were you live? They sell DECENT-NOT perfect airbrushes for $10.00. I have one,but it's fairly crappy quality,and I only use it to do all over paint finishes,like for model cars,but not to do any fine details. The head on it is designed for wide spray only,and is not replaceable for fine detail. I usually use water based acrylics diluted with water,so that I don't have brush strokes as bad. I use flat colours,and it's easier to keep from getting lap marks in it than with gloss. I spray clearcaot over this if I need to.

Pandaphil · Post by **Pandaphil** » Mon Sep 21, 2009 1:12 am

Bumping.

I'm kinda in the same boat here with the cockpit canopy of my TOS Cylon Raider. The way its shaped its almost impossible to mask for airbrushing, so brushing it is. Since its flat black, the fine scratches are only noticable when the light hits it the right way. Hoping some fine sanding and a couple layers of dullcoat will smooth things out.

seam-filler · Post by **seam-filler** » Mon Sep 21, 2009 2:28 am

If the brush marks aren't too bad, try old denim. It's rough enough to smooth out the brush strokes but gentle enough not to damage the finish.

If you can, bleach the denim so there is no chance of colour-bleed.

Pandaphil · Post by **Pandaphil** » Wed Sep 23, 2009 4:50 pm

Helped a little bit, but also removed paint from the edges and some of the thinner spots. :p

Would a couple coats of Future, with an overspray of dullcoat to knock down the shine do the trick?

Lt. Z0mBe · Post by **Lt. Z0mBe** » Fri Sep 25, 2009 7:32 pm

Pandaphil wrote:Helped a little bit, but also removed paint from the edges and some of the thinner spots. :p

Would a couple coats of Future, with an overspray of dullcoat to knock down the shine do the trick?

Dullcoat is going to frost your canopy. You mention masking is a problem. Two thoughts:

1.) Silly putty. Prod it into difficult places with the blunt ends of paint brush handles. To "crop" it away from an edge that's in a weird spot, but that you don't want to mar (one that's been painted, fer instance), make a little spatula out of old credit cards, hotel room keys, or approximately .020-inch sheet styrene junk.

2.) Liquid latex. Go to Wal-Mart. Get a product called "Castin Craft Liquid Latex mold builder" Apply with a brush. If masking over acrylics, make sure they're really well cured. TEST IT FIRST when using with said acrylics, as it will, like most liquid latex products, frost some latex/acrylic paints.

I hope this helps you out.

Kenny