How to clean a file?
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How to clean a file?
I've got a ton of styrene stuck in all the ridges of my 6" file, and for the life of me, can't figure how to get it out. Along one edge, there's an inch long, 1/3" high strip of epoxy/green putty as well.
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Also known as a suede brush. You'll get more out if you rub the file with a stick of chalk first - preferably French Chalk.SCC-7107 USS Atlantis wrote:A brass-bristled brush is what I use to clean all my files
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I myself clean my files as I go along. If you don't let the buildup get too great, an old stiff bristled toothbrush will do. Also, As I have sweaty hands, I keep a bottle of rubbing alcohol (Isopropanol) to clean the skin oils, which can make the file glide over rather than grab and cut cleanly.
So I wet the toothbrush with alcohol and run it over the file every now and then.
So I wet the toothbrush with alcohol and run it over the file every now and then.
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I've used a wire brush for years and it works fine, every so often I'll have to dig out a chunk of epoxy or CA that wasn't quite set when I filed it, but I've never had a file gummed up to the point it took a lot of work to clean it.
I'd be careful with the fire trick, too hot and you'll take the temper out of the teeth.
Reading the part about the chalk reminded me of an old machinists trick when filing aluminum, rub chalk into the file before you start. Aluminum has a tendency to smear when filed, the chalk acts as a lubricant and also prevents the aluminum shavings from packing in tight between the teeth.
I'd be careful with the fire trick, too hot and you'll take the temper out of the teeth.
Reading the part about the chalk reminded me of an old machinists trick when filing aluminum, rub chalk into the file before you start. Aluminum has a tendency to smear when filed, the chalk acts as a lubricant and also prevents the aluminum shavings from packing in tight between the teeth.
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That's exactly where I learned the trick as an apprentice. I decided to try the same technique at home on the files I use for modelling. In many ways, plastic & resin behave in the same way as aluminium when filing.kenlilly106 wrote:Reading the part about the chalk reminded me of an old machinists trick when filing aluminum, rub chalk into the file before you start. Aluminum has a tendency to smear when filed, the chalk acts as a lubricant and also prevents the aluminum shavings from packing in tight between the teeth.
Frensch chalk is better than school or marking chalk as it is purer and has none of the binders which can actually make things worse.
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The problem with a file card is that the wire bristles are usually too large for fine needle-files, which is why I use a suede brush. I haven't tried soap myself, but I would think it works OK.
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I never thought about the similarities, I'll have to try it out.seam-filler wrote: That's exactly where I learned the trick as an apprentice. I decided to try the same technique at home on the files I use for modelling. In many ways, plastic & resin behave in the same way as aluminium when filing.
Where can you get it at retail?Frensch chalk is better than school or marking chalk as it is purer and has none of the binders which can actually make things worse.
Ken
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I've used soap to lubricate saws, even razor saws.Mr. Badwrench wrote:File card is the way to go. Like a brass brush, only it's wider and the bristles are only about 1/8 inch long. I've never heard of the chalk method, but I've used a bar of soap to do the same thing.
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Political unrest in dictatorships is rather like a round of rock-paper-scissors: The oposition goes on denouncing the regime on the papers, the regime censors the papers, rock-throwing ensues.
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In the UK it is readily available in better hardware and DIY shops, but I don't know about the US. Sports shops also often seel it, but it is already ground into a powder which is no good for cleaning files.kenlilly106 wrote:Where can you get it at retail?seam-filler wrote: Frensch chalk is better than school or marking chalk as it is purer and has none of the binders which can actually make things worse.
Ken
Another alternative is tailor's (or dressmaker's) chalk. It isn't as good as french chalk, but way better than scholl chalk.
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Get a fine brass brush and a fine steel wire brush. Use the brass on the finer files and the steel on the courser. I avoid using thinners at all costs as they tend to melt the plastic and leave a residue in the deep recesses that may never come out.
If you are going to be in the modeling hobby for any length of time you need to invest in good files. They cost a lot more but maintain their sharpness for most of a lifetime.
As to fire yeah try it and then wait till your file breaks cause you have totally screwed the temper on the thing. Not a good idea...
Mark
If you are going to be in the modeling hobby for any length of time you need to invest in good files. They cost a lot more but maintain their sharpness for most of a lifetime.
As to fire yeah try it and then wait till your file breaks cause you have totally screwed the temper on the thing. Not a good idea...
Mark
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From what I can find, dressmakers chalk is French chalk. Found a nice supply of chalks here along with waxes & what-not.
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I say if you're only going to be in the hobby for like 10-15 minutes, files made from chewing gum with sand stuck in it work nicely. Cheap and disposable, that's the ticket!Mark Yungblut wrote:If you are going to be in the modeling hobby for any length of time you need to invest in good files.
-Rog
Use a small butane torch or gas ring to heat the file. This will burn the crud out but don't get it too hot or you'll alter the temper of the file. You should then be able to brush the remains out. For really stubborn dirt, try filing a piece of mild steel 'edge on' to remove the accumulated crud.
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If you can find it, get a tube of the wax jewlwers use to lubricate a jewlwers saw. I will occasionally rub a file with this wax if i know the material I am filing is soft.
If you can't find that get machinists grade bee's wax.
Cheers,
Mark
If you can't find that get machinists grade bee's wax.
Cheers,
Mark
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