Epoxy question

Squall67584 · Post by **Squall67584** » Mon May 18, 2009 9:32 pm

I'm about to start assembling a resin model, and was wanting to find a type of epoxy that I could get locally at a hardware store. Is there a type that I can find there that someone here would recommend, or is any of the liquid kind good?

seam-filler · Post by **seam-filler** » Tue May 19, 2009 2:02 am

Joy!!! Someone else who thinks epoxy's better for resin kits than CA!!!

I hate CA with a passion and I will only use it when absolutely nothing else will do - and that's very rare.

I use 2 types of epoxy, both of which should be available at any hardware store. For most things, I use 5-minute epoxy and 1-hr epoxy for larger or stronger joints. The brands I use - Araldite & Unibond (I don't know if these are available in the US) come in a double syringe that allows you to squeeze out a small quantity of both components in equal measure. This not only make mixing easier, but also saves on wastage. When I've mixed what I need, I use a cocktail stick, toothpick or MicroBrush to apply it. The only things you have to watch for are stringing and that fact that epoxy is very sticky. I keep some isopropyl alcohol (IPA) around to clean up any excess, strings or stickiness - you can use this for cleaning 5-minute epoxy for about 1/2 hour.

Even 5-minute epoxy is far stronger than a CA joint and is less prone to aging the way CA does.

photoguy · Post by **photoguy** » Tue May 19, 2009 7:52 am

Probably very similar to Loctite brand here in the U.S. Very strong, turns a little yellow when dry. I found some Great Planes epoxy at the local hobby shop that was a little lower viscosity and dries almost completely clear. I experimented with casting a few parts with these, and they were quite acceptable.

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Tue May 19, 2009 2:02 pm

seam-filler wrote:Joy!!! Someone else who thinks epoxy's better for resin kits than CA!!!

I hate CA with a passion and I will only use it when absolutely nothing else will do - and that's very rare.

I use 2 types of epoxy, both of which should be available at any hardware store. For most things, I use 5-minute epoxy and 1-hr epoxy for larger or stronger joints. The brands I use - Araldite & Unibond (I don't know if these are available in the US) come in a double syringe that allows you to squeeze out a small quantity of both components in equal measure. This not only make mixing easier, but also saves on wastage. When I've mixed what I need, I use a cocktail stick, toothpick or MicroBrush to apply it. The only things you have to watch for are stringing and that fact that epoxy is very sticky. I keep some isopropyl alcohol (IPA) around to clean up any excess, strings or stickiness - you can use this for cleaning 5-minute epoxy for about 1/2 hour.

Even 5-minute epoxy is far stronger than a CA joint and is less prone to aging the way CA does.

Which is really funny because I'm just the opposite. Hate epoxy glue with a vengeance and love my CA.

Joseph Osborn · Post by **Joseph Osborn** » Tue May 19, 2009 7:22 pm

JB Weld's quick-setting epoxy is really nice because it's a little thicker than some other epoxies, it's cheap, and it's available just about anywhere. As mentioned by photoguy, Loctite makes several different formulations of epoxy and is usually easy to find at hardware stores and home centers. You can mix fillers like microballons and cabosil into epoxy to make a paste, too. One thing about working with epoxy is that it's best to roughen the mating surfaces to get a good bond (but this is true of almost any adhesive). Probably the only thing I don't like about epoxy is that is doesn't immediately fix the part into position, so it's not good if you are impatient

kenlilly106 · Post by **kenlilly106** » Tue May 19, 2009 8:19 pm

I'm another fan of JB Weld quick-set, sets rock hard and I've never had a joint fail. Probably the biggest drawback is that once set it can take a bit of sanding to get it to shape, I use a moto-tool with sanding or cutting bits to rough off the worst of the excess, then working my way through various grit sandpapers. Auto-body putty sticks to it fine, along with lacquer primers and enamel paints.

JB Weld also makes a 12 hour cure epoxy available in large tubes (4-5oz I think) that you can get from Autozone.

I've learned that masking tape can be applied around a joint to contain the epoxy, apparently the adhesive on the tape will not bond to JB weld.

I've also used different varieties of hard-ware store epoxies throughout the years with good success, I use 5-minute all the time to glue on landing gear so I can get the "sit" right.

Ken

Post by **TER-OR** » Tue May 19, 2009 9:00 pm

Remember to pin the parts wherever possible. If they are going to support any kind of load, don't rely on CA or epoxy cement. Mechanical support is paramount.

Spacephrawg · Post by **Spacephrawg** » Sat May 23, 2009 6:40 pm

I know with other kinds of glues and other surfaces, that the more contact area there is, the better the hold. perhaps that rule is universal. Well what if I want to use epoxy to hold together some really small things? Would it work for that?

Squall67584 · Post by **Squall67584** » Sat May 23, 2009 10:35 pm

I've only used it twice so far, and from what i can tell, depending on how small the parts are, it might be too hard to apply it without just making a mess. I got the Loctite 5 minute kind, and while I really like how strong it is, the smell is horrid. Oh well, at least it works.

kenlilly106 · Post by **kenlilly106** » Sun May 24, 2009 8:39 am

Regular 5-minute epoxy works well for small parts, the biggest challenge is applying enough of it to the part without making a mess.

As noted above, I use 5-minute epoxy to glue on aircraft landing gear parts so I can get the alignment right before the glue sets, the bonding surface is just a fraction of a square inch and I haven't had any problems in terms of longevity.

Ken

Spacephrawg · Post by **Spacephrawg** » Sun May 24, 2009 12:49 pm

Squall67584 wrote:I've only used it twice so far, and from what i can tell, depending on how small the parts are, it might be too hard to apply it without just making a mess. I got the Loctite 5 minute kind, and while I really like how strong it is, the smell is horrid. Oh well, at least it works.

Does loctite work on plastic or just metal?

Squall67584 · Post by **Squall67584** » Sun May 24, 2009 10:47 pm

The loctite 5 minute epoxy is just typical regular epoxy, not the loctite stuff you put on screws to stay in better. Now, that blue stuff made for screws doesn't do a darn thing for plastic.. trust me, I found that out at work a few months back.