Couple questions on Clear canopies
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Couple questions on Clear canopies
Ok, after the debacle of my Tempest bomber and the attempt at doing the canopie there, i need to ask some questions.
1) What can be used to attach clear parts without fogging them? Preferably something that dries matte incase some leaks into the cockpit.
2) Is there a good way to fill any gaps that may be present after attaching said clear parts to kit?
3) after dipping in future, will masking tape (ie Tamaiya tape) affect/mar up the coating?
4) any other tips on how to handle clear canopies?
I don't usually do kits with them, but i have a few in line and am nearing the stage where i need to attach one to my Valkyrie and i dont want to f-it up. and i dont want to opaque it like i had to with a few other kits cause i spent alot of time on the cockpit/pilot.
Thanks!
mrn
1) What can be used to attach clear parts without fogging them? Preferably something that dries matte incase some leaks into the cockpit.
2) Is there a good way to fill any gaps that may be present after attaching said clear parts to kit?
3) after dipping in future, will masking tape (ie Tamaiya tape) affect/mar up the coating?
4) any other tips on how to handle clear canopies?
I don't usually do kits with them, but i have a few in line and am nearing the stage where i need to attach one to my Valkyrie and i dont want to f-it up. and i dont want to opaque it like i had to with a few other kits cause i spent alot of time on the cockpit/pilot.
Thanks!
mrn
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Ad 1 and 2: try white glue for wood/paper (water-based). It is clear after it dries out, doesn't fog or eat plastics and fills the gaps, if they are not too wide. The joint is not too strong, one may not grab the model by the canopy, but no one would do that anyway. And if something breaks inside the cockpit one day, you can simply tear the canopy off without damaging it and do the repairs.
...to boldly glue what no man has glued before...
I like this a little better than regular "Elmers White Glue". It dries to more of a "clear" than white glue which can have a milky tint to it.
http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/mer ... ct_Count=3
http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/mer ... ct_Count=3
Tamiya tape won't mar a thing, much less a Future coated canopy.
CA may fog the canopy as it cures so it's best to avoid using it unless you absolutely have to (and then keep you fngers crossed). That being said I've used the Wave Black CA for canopies a few times without issue. I normally just use the Testors Canopy Cement.
CA may fog the canopy as it cures so it's best to avoid using it unless you absolutely have to (and then keep you fngers crossed). That being said I've used the Wave Black CA for canopies a few times without issue. I normally just use the Testors Canopy Cement.
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but does it dry matte?robiwon wrote:I like this a little better than regular "Elmers White Glue". It dries to more of a "clear" than white glue which can have a milky tint to it.
http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/mer ... ct_Count=3
ive used this as well, on my Horton kit, but it dried glossy, and when it leaked into the interior of the cockpit, i have a glossy ring around the inside of the interior. i may have been a little heavy handed applying it in that case.I normally just use the Testors Canopy Cement.
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Jeweller's cement (aka Crystal cement).
Much better than Elmers, any PVA glue and even stronger than Microscale's Krystal Klear. Usually comes in a neet needle-dispenser.
Google "crystal cement"
Much better than Elmers, any PVA glue and even stronger than Microscale's Krystal Klear. Usually comes in a neet needle-dispenser.
Google "crystal cement"
"I'd just like to say that building large smooth-skinned models should be avoided at all costs. I now see why people want to stick kit-parts all over their designs as it covers up a lot of problems." - David Sisson
It dries to a semi matt finish I would say. But the trick is to use only enough to do the job. If you have any glue oozing out between parts, your using to much. A thin film is all that's needed. If you need to build up or fill in small gaps do so a little at a time. Just as if you were puttying. This will prevent runs.
This is the stuff you need.
http://www.gssupplies.com/cement_hypo.html
Jewellers use it to anchor gems in metal. I bought some a few years ago, and have only just run out. It even comes with its own applicator that does not clog up. It's awesome stuff!
http://www.gssupplies.com/cement_hypo.html
Jewellers use it to anchor gems in metal. I bought some a few years ago, and have only just run out. It even comes with its own applicator that does not clog up. It's awesome stuff!
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It's actually the stuff I use too, it's readily available in the UK.Old Wombat wrote:PetarB, do you know of any Aus-local suppliers or do I need to buy on-line?
In Australia... http://beadsisters.com.au/glue/g-s-hypo ... od_86.html
Google' a wonderful thing
"I'd just like to say that building large smooth-skinned models should be avoided at all costs. I now see why people want to stick kit-parts all over their designs as it covers up a lot of problems." - David Sisson
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- Old Wombat
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