How to Remove Paint Ridges from Second Coat when Aztecing?

strangelove · Post by **strangelove** » Sun Jul 26, 2009 10:25 pm

I took a shot at aztecing my 18 inch AMT TOS Enterprise. From a distance it looks fine, but up close in the glare of the light it looks like it has seen many battles -- scrapes from my fingernail (from removing the tape bits), and many ridges from the second coat.

Will the fine marring from fingernails disappear during the finishing stage?

Is there a way to eliminate the paint ridges?

Keeping in mind that I am using rattle cans, what went wrong here? Too much paint = ridges?

I found it all but impossible to lift the tape without touching the paint in some manner.

Some blurry photos of the work can be found here.

My apologies for the stream of questions. each new step generates new issues for me.

mech · Post by **mech** » Mon Jul 27, 2009 3:54 am

Once it's good and dry, run some ultra fine wet sanding paper, say 2000 or so, over the surface. Just a pass or two should knock down the ridge between the masking lines. What kind of tape did you use? I ask because I used to paint cars and was instructed to never lay the masking tape first. 3M makes a specific masking tape for painting that reduces the masking ridge significantly. Goes around corners like butter too.

strangelove · Post by **strangelove** » Mon Jul 27, 2009 7:38 am

I used Painter's Mate Green tape.

seam-filler · Post by **seam-filler** » Mon Jul 27, 2009 8:30 am

Painter's Mate is intended for decorator or DIY use - i.e. painting your house with a brush or roller. Even though it is thinner than most decorators tapes, it's still a lot thicker than detailing masking tape as used for modeling or car customising. This may well explain the ridges you've got.

Mech's suggestion of £m is good, but a particular favourite here is Tamiya masking tape (available from the SSM store).

strangelove · Post by **strangelove** » Mon Jul 27, 2009 9:50 am

I'll pick up the Tamiya tape and toss the Green tape in my general tool box.

Thanks for explaining why (thinner) -- nothing helps more than 'why'.

mech · Post by **mech** » Mon Jul 27, 2009 9:59 am

strangelove wrote:I'll pick up the Tamiya tape and toss the Green tape in my general tool box.

Thanks for explaining why (thinner) -- nothing helps more than 'why'.

The Tamiya tape is good stuff, but I have found that it does not go around, round, complex bends as it is a paper based tape. The 3M is more a "plastic" type tape. Extremely thing and when you "pinch" the tape and the bend, you can stretch it around the shape in question. It does not gap or deform or rip.

MillenniumFalsehood · Post by **MillenniumFalsehood** » Tue Jul 28, 2009 2:33 am

I would suggest also don't pick at the edges of the tape. Scratching it gently on the surface near the edge will work great to bring it up without damaging the underlying coat.

modeler1964 · Post by **modeler1964** » Tue Jul 28, 2009 8:23 am

Rattlecans also are very hard to work with when aztecing. The main problem is that you cannot regulate the amount of paint going down. Airbrushes (double action) allow the paint to be applied in a controlled fashion, spray cans do not afford you this option I'm afraid. Try some of the solutions suggested here and you should be able to correct the situation. Good Luck!