I just got back into modeling after 20 years and have to say you guys are doing some beautiful work and this site is amazing. I have learned so much from reading the posts on these forums. Here is my question. I have a number of Createx paints, not the Auto Air, just the airbrush ready paints in the 2 oz bottles. I like this stuff as it is not toxic and my wife won't kill me if I spray it in the house. I need to know if any one has tried theser over a primed model. I am building some Robotech models from the 80's and so far I have primed them with Tamiya spray primer, nice stuff by the way. I prefer to do these with flats. Back in the day when we use to build these we used to use Armory paints or Gunze with a Paasche H and we liked that sort of textured look.
I would like to use my collection of Createx paints if possible, I also have quite a few Badger Air-opaque paints and numerous airbrushes including an external mix, a Badger 200 and a Paasche VL. Need to know
1. will they stick to a primed model, if yes then what primer
2. what thinner for each
3. what psi and what airbrush is best for these applications
Thanks in advance for your answers
Createx colors NOT Auto Air also Bagder Air- Opaque
Moderators: DasPhule, Moderators
I've used the regular Createx paints with okay results. I do find them harder to work with than conventional acrylic model paints and have pretty much abandoned mine. The pigments are a bit thicker than dedicated model paints as well.
I thinned them with Future Floor Acrylic, about 4 parts paint to 1 part Future. Any thinner than that I had trouble with running. Multiple thin coats would have probably helped considerably. From what I recall, trying to mix Createx with alcohol results in an airbrush-clogging mess. I tried the Createx-branded thinner and varnish as well, but Future worked better. I'm sorry I don't seem to have written down what PSI I was using, but whatever it was, it was shot out of a Crescendo (Badger) 175. The paint is thick, so I suspect a single-action brush would have a tough time of it.
For primer, at the time I was using the cheapest automotive primer I could find. Heating the Createx paints after application really helped adhesion. In fact, I've got a couple test pieces rattling around my parts drawer that have no scratches after several years.
I thinned them with Future Floor Acrylic, about 4 parts paint to 1 part Future. Any thinner than that I had trouble with running. Multiple thin coats would have probably helped considerably. From what I recall, trying to mix Createx with alcohol results in an airbrush-clogging mess. I tried the Createx-branded thinner and varnish as well, but Future worked better. I'm sorry I don't seem to have written down what PSI I was using, but whatever it was, it was shot out of a Crescendo (Badger) 175. The paint is thick, so I suspect a single-action brush would have a tough time of it.
For primer, at the time I was using the cheapest automotive primer I could find. Heating the Createx paints after application really helped adhesion. In fact, I've got a couple test pieces rattling around my parts drawer that have no scratches after several years.
World's Tallest Jawa!
The regular Createx ummm, sucks.
I used to use a lot of it, would get frustrated, would get mixed results and I usually was not happy with it - before I discovered Tamiya acrylics.
The regular Createx turns into "pudding" in your airbrush, and I had countless clogs and did not enjoy using it very much. Then I started working with the Tamiya thinned with Tamiya brand airbrush thinner (very important lesson learned) and really started to enjoy airbrushing my models. The new Cratex Auto-Air is BEAUTIFUL paint to work with on just about any project - illustration, model, automotive, whatever.
Short answers to your questions
1. Yes it will stick to a primed model. $1 rattle-can sandable primer is fine
2. Use the manufacturer's thinner. DO NOT USE WATER, or some kitchen lab concoction of Windex, Washer Fluid, Alcohol, Tabasco Sauce or anything else!
3. Use the best airbrush you can afford. Iwata's have the lead right now.
Experiment with your air pressure on some illustration board. The lower the pressure, the finer line you can produce, but too low, and it will start spattering.
I used to use a lot of it, would get frustrated, would get mixed results and I usually was not happy with it - before I discovered Tamiya acrylics.
The regular Createx turns into "pudding" in your airbrush, and I had countless clogs and did not enjoy using it very much. Then I started working with the Tamiya thinned with Tamiya brand airbrush thinner (very important lesson learned) and really started to enjoy airbrushing my models. The new Cratex Auto-Air is BEAUTIFUL paint to work with on just about any project - illustration, model, automotive, whatever.
Short answers to your questions
1. Yes it will stick to a primed model. $1 rattle-can sandable primer is fine
2. Use the manufacturer's thinner. DO NOT USE WATER, or some kitchen lab concoction of Windex, Washer Fluid, Alcohol, Tabasco Sauce or anything else!
3. Use the best airbrush you can afford. Iwata's have the lead right now.
Experiment with your air pressure on some illustration board. The lower the pressure, the finer line you can produce, but too low, and it will start spattering.