Aztec Decals and Pearl

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Sloucher
Posts: 72
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Location: UK

Aztec Decals and Pearl

Post by Sloucher »

Guys

Hope someone can help. I need some advice regarding which method is best (for best, read simplest!) to produce the most accurate (or visually pleasing) aztec effect on the Polar Lights 1:350 Refit Enterprise.

You see, I have the later kit version that comes with the aztec decals, but do they produce as good an effect as using masks and paint?
  • If I do use the decals, do I airbrush some pearl over the whole thing after, or just specific areas (which?).

    If I go for the aztec mask version, whose are best (I don't currently have the supplies or facilities to use the templates available for download from this site).
I know this is probably a rather subjective question, unless someone has tried both methods!

Talking of pearl, I'll be using Vallejo acrylics on this model, has anyone tried their metallic effect? Can anyone suggest a source and brand of a suitable pearl (white or clear) here in the UK?

BTW,I've just finished my PL 1:1000 TOS Enterprise, please feel free to criticise!!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/38926882@N ... -starships

TIA!!
seam-filler
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Location: Aberdeen, Scotland

Post by seam-filler »

The full range of Vallejo paints are available in the UK from SnM Stuff. They are about the cheapest too.

If you spray the pearl over the aztec decals the whole model will be pearl - instead of just the parts you want. If you apply decals over pearl you will lose the pearl effect.

Which is better, decals or masking? Masking, IMO will give the best results (if done well), but it's a real marathon and tedious job. Decals will be quicker and somewhat easier, but mistakes won't be easily fixed. Unless you mask, you will not get the pearl finish.

I may be wrong, but I believe that the pearlescent finish was used only on the TMP & TWOK version of the model and that the effect was lost when they did the refinish for the Ent-A.
Last edited by seam-filler on Tue Apr 20, 2010 3:11 am, edited 1 time in total.
"I'd just like to say that building large smooth-skinned models should be avoided at all costs. I now see why people want to stick kit-parts all over their designs as it covers up a lot of problems." - David Sisson
ajmadison
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Post by ajmadison »

seam-filler wrote:
I may be wrong, but I believe that the pearlescent finish was used only on the TMP & TWOK version of the model and that the effect was lost when they did the refinish for the Ent-A.
S'kay, you have to an repentant refit addict to know some of these details. You're right & incorrect about the TWOK version of the FX miniature.

The short history of the FX miniature's finish is like this (and I'm shy on some details here as well)

ST:TMP: Pearlescent finish in all its glory
ST:TWOK: ILM did the effects. Because of their heavy reliance on bluescreen techniques, the pearlescent finish was hidden behind layer upon layer of dullcoat. Essentially the same miniature, but dullcoated.
ST:TSFS: various damage repair effects
ST:TVH/ST:TFF: refinished to remove damage effects and dash A added. IIRC, this is the point when the blue engineering strongback and plasma guide covers appears. Some parts of the miniature's paneling redone, e.g. area around the planetary sensor on the primary hull lower.
ST:TFF/ST:TUC: in one of these movies, the 'homage' to TOS-E bay doors on the secondary hull lower appears. Definitely TUC, but may have been added in TFF.
Sloucher
Posts: 72
Joined: Mon Dec 07, 2009 5:49 pm
Location: UK

Post by Sloucher »

@ seam-filler
Thanks for that link :thumbsup: I'm fairly stocked up on paint at the moment, but when the big E build begins - well, there's a different tale!

@ ajmadison
#-o Ah - I thought I knew which version I was going to build - now I'm not so sure :? Cheers for the info

Still, the question remaining for me is what pearlescent paint to get? Got to be gettable in the UK.
seam-filler
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Location: Aberdeen, Scotland

Post by seam-filler »

There's Daler Rowney FW Pearlescent, but this isn't suitable for finer airbrushes.

Createx do airbrushable pearls - just Google Createx (UK only) and you'll find a few suppliers.

I believe that Liquitex do an "Iridescent Varnish" also suitable for airbrushes.

If you have access to a good art or graphics store, try asking them. If you plan to use an airbrush, remember to mention this. Most pearl or iridescent paints actually contain minute flakes of mica which can clog or even damage an airbrush.

Don't bother looking for Tamiya's Spray Pearl White - it isn't legal in the UK.
"I'd just like to say that building large smooth-skinned models should be avoided at all costs. I now see why people want to stick kit-parts all over their designs as it covers up a lot of problems." - David Sisson
ajmadison
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Post by ajmadison »

seam-filler wrote:There's Daler Rowney FW Pearlescent, but this isn't suitable for finer airbrushes.

Createx do airbrushable pearls - just Google Createx (UK only) and you'll find a few suppliers.

I believe that Liquitex do an "Iridescent Varnish" also suitable for airbrushes.

If you have access to a good art or graphics store, try asking them. If you plan to use an airbrush, remember to mention this. Most pearl or iridescent paints actually contain minute flakes of mica which can clog or even damage an airbrush.

Don't bother looking for Tamiya's Spray Pearl White - it isn't legal in the UK.
Liquitex makes an Iridescent Airbrush Medium. Medium is another way of saying 'carrier'. So in this case, this particular product should be compatible with airbrushes. I've done some experiments with it, and you can just hand brush it over a previously painted base coat. Another trick is take the straight Iridescent additive and mix it with, what you call Johnson's Kleer (what us 'Yanks' call Future Floor Wax). This can be hand painted over a previously painted base coat.
seam-filler
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Post by seam-filler »

Great though Liquitex is, it is not widely available in the UK. Some really good art shops stock it (or some of it) by Windsor & Newton and Daler Rowney have the lion's share of the market here.
"I'd just like to say that building large smooth-skinned models should be avoided at all costs. I now see why people want to stick kit-parts all over their designs as it covers up a lot of problems." - David Sisson
Sloucher
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Joined: Mon Dec 07, 2009 5:49 pm
Location: UK

Post by Sloucher »

Thanks for the recommendations guys :tu: .

I'll do some searching for Liquitex and Createx and see what I can find. Maybe one of the additives in a medium if its fine enough, as I do intend airbrushing it. I was wondering what the Vallejo metallic medium was like, but I'll soon find out as I've got some coming.

Coincidentally, after some detective work, :holmes: ,I've managed to get some Klear from our local B&Q this afternoon. However, its not actually called Johnson's Klear anymore. Johnsons discontinued it in the UK back in 2008, but what I have managed to get is Pledge Multi Surface Wax (there's no wax in it really). It says on the bottle that "The improved formula Klear is now....."
According to here:
http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html
its the same as the original Klear (Future).

:holmes:
Randal
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Location: Northern Ireland

Post by Randal »

I found Pactra Pearl White for R/C models locally. RC5201 R/C ACRYL PEARL WHITE in a 1 fl oz bottle. Haven't got round to experiment with clear coats yet but it sprays on resonably well.
Kirk: "Scotty, do you allways multiply your repair times by a factor of four?"
Scotty: "Of course sir, how else do ah keep mah reputation as a miracle worker?"
seam-filler
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Location: Aberdeen, Scotland

Post by seam-filler »

Sloucher wrote:Coincidentally, after some detective work, :holmes: ,I've managed to get some Klear from our local B&Q this afternoon. However, its not actually called Johnson's Klear anymore. Johnsons discontinued it in the UK back in 2008, but what I have managed to get is Pledge Multi Surface Wax (there's no wax in it really). It says on the bottle that "The improved formula Klear is now....."
According to here:
http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html
its the same as the original Klear (Future).
I understand that the new version is perfumed. Klear can still be seen in several places... ASDA and Wilkinsons for a start. Klear is at the old price, about a quid cheaper than the new version.

PS - I would have thought that Pactra R/C paint might be too 'hot' for styrene as it is intended for polycarbonates. Worth an experiment, though.
"I'd just like to say that building large smooth-skinned models should be avoided at all costs. I now see why people want to stick kit-parts all over their designs as it covers up a lot of problems." - David Sisson
Sloucher
Posts: 72
Joined: Mon Dec 07, 2009 5:49 pm
Location: UK

Post by Sloucher »

seam-filler wrote:I understand that the new version is perfumed.
Hehe, you're right there. I may not end up with the most accurate refit model, but its sure going to smell nice!
seam-filler wrote:ASDA and Wilkinsons for a start. Klear is at the old price, about a quid cheaper than the new version.
I don't have an Asda near to me unfortunately, but I know a man who has! I'll get a colleague to check for me. As for Wilkinsons, I didn't try our local branch, as Wilkinson's have delisted Klear from their website, and I thought I'd save myself a wasted walk. I'll get the same colleague to do the legwork for me!

I've eventually ordered some Createx pearlescent white from...errr, somewhere - I've forgotten where :roll: ! I'll just have to wait until it arrives to find out! I'll report back on its effectiveness.
Floyd Walker
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Location: Columbus, Ohio USA

Post by Floyd Walker »

I have some Golden's "Iridescent Pearl" that looks to have quite a fine grain to it.
Just thin it with Future (Klear, whatever), add a couple drops of retarder and you should be good to go.
(This should also work with other non-model brands of acrylics. "Airbrush medium" is effectively clear acrylic paint with a retarding agent, so I decided that I could make my own :) )
Randal
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Joined: Sat Jul 13, 2002 9:53 pm
Location: Northern Ireland

Post by Randal »

Seam-filler wrote:
PS - I would have thought that Pactra R/C paint might be too 'hot' for styrene as it is intended for polycarbonates. Worth an experiment, though.
I used Halfords rattlecan white plastic primer on mine and the Pactra R/C paint hasn't harmed the plastic.
Kirk: "Scotty, do you allways multiply your repair times by a factor of four?"
Scotty: "Of course sir, how else do ah keep mah reputation as a miracle worker?"
Sloucher
Posts: 72
Joined: Mon Dec 07, 2009 5:49 pm
Location: UK

Post by Sloucher »

Hi Guys

As an aside to the previous mention of Liquitex, I contacted Herman Reich at Liquitex and he has confirmed that the mica chips in their iridescent Medium are fine enough to go through an airbrush, even a fine point, when thinned with the airbrush medium.

Seems there's quite a few places stock it in the UK as well.

Slouch
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