Paasche airbrush bottle cap for Model Master jars?

Callandor · Post by **Callandor** » Thu May 20, 2010 9:36 am

Does the Paasche 1/2 oz jars for the model H airbrushes screw directly onto Model Master paint jars? I have a few 1 oz jars and I am tired of pouring paint back and forth between jars.

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Thu May 20, 2010 1:02 pm

Find a Paasche lid with a bolt on siphon and transfer it to the lid from a dead bottle of MM. Did it for years with Tamiya jars.

psytce · Post by **psytce** » Thu May 20, 2010 4:30 pm

The Model Master jars can be used with the 1/2 oz top, but you still have to thin the paint, and you might have to cut the plastic tubing from the 1/2 H-lid.
I used the 1/2 jar assembly with the Model master jars a while ago so I'm not sure if I had to trim the inside tube or not.

Thanks!

davehal9000 · Post by **davehal9000** » Thu May 20, 2010 5:01 pm

I always just drill a hole in an extra bottle lid

Lt. Z0mBe · Post by **Lt. Z0mBe** » Fri May 21, 2010 4:03 am

Don't thin the paint in the parent jar. Don't dump thinned paint back into the parent jar. It will go bad within a matter of months. The solvent will break down the binders, leaving you with clumpy little balls of pigment and polymer at the bottom of the jar you cannot stir up.

I hope this helps.

Kenny

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Fri May 21, 2010 12:03 pm

I've been thinning Tamiya in the jar for years with Tamiya thinner and have never had the issue you describe.

Then again I live @ a high altitude and very little humidity.

Lt. Z0mBe · Post by **Lt. Z0mBe** » Fri May 21, 2010 4:58 pm

Kylwell wrote:I've been thinning Tamiya in the jar for years with Tamiya thinner and have never had the issue you describe.

Then again I live @ a high altitude and very little humidity.

A little bit doesn't necessarily hurt. But if you're thinning in the amounts necessary for airbrushing, the thinner will necessarily act on the binding ability of the polymers, as they become so dissolved/frayed in the solution, they cannot form the medium length chains necessary for wet paint or the long (crosslinked) chains necessary for dry paint.

In the jar, the unlinkable small pieces of polymer fall to the bottom because, again, so much solvent has acted on them and broken them down to the point they can't link up with their buddies.

On the plus side, you do get one spare mixing jar out of the deal.

Kenny

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Fri May 21, 2010 7:35 pm

If you say so.... Never had an issue, usually thin about 50/50. When it gets down to some 80/20 you've got to be careful of your distance and pressure to avoid instant spiders but other than that..

Lt. Z0mBe · Post by **Lt. Z0mBe** » Fri May 21, 2010 11:18 pm

Kylwell wrote:If you say so.... Never had an issue, usually thin about 50/50. When it gets down to some 80/20 you've got to be careful of your distance and pressure to avoid instant spiders but other than that..

Your Iwata can conjur instant spiders?

Kenny

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Sat May 22, 2010 1:25 am

Yup, it's special.

iSteve · Post by **iSteve** » Sat May 22, 2010 9:19 pm

Kylwell wrote:If you say so.... Never had an issue, usually thin about 50/50. When it gets down to some 80/20 you've got to be careful of your distance and pressure to avoid instant spiders but other than that..

Agreed, never had what Kenny described either, using MM acryls.