What are u guys using to cut thick sheet styrene?

Dark Star · Post by **Dark Star** » Thu Jun 17, 2010 3:44 pm

How do you guys get those complex and perfect shapes using thick sheet styrene? I mean sheets more than 1 mm thick, I was trying to cut 2 mm thick sheets using a new X-acto knife and almost took my fingers off several times and broke a blade. I went slowely so I'm not rushing.

It took forever just to make small cuts. Are there other methods or tools you guys are using that I don't know about? Please share before I cut my hand off! Thanks!

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Thu Jun 17, 2010 3:47 pm

Scribe & pop.

Cut through a little & then bend the sheet to pop the cut.

Johnnycrash · Post by **Johnnycrash** » Thu Jun 17, 2010 4:56 pm

Just remember though, the break with scribe and snap isn't always clean. The snapped edge may have a slant to it. So, cut over sizes by just a little. Scribe, snap, and sand the edge back to the real dimension you want. It's just that easy.

Lt. Z0mBe · Post by **Lt. Z0mBe** » Thu Jun 17, 2010 9:19 pm

MEthods the others have mentioned and a sturdy pair of scissors for curved areas.

For perfect circles, I use an Olfa circle Cutter. Erin (Das Phule) turned me on to this. Use it backwards to scribe 90-percent of the way through and then cut the last little bit with the blade.

I hope this helps.

Kenny

Kolschey · Post by **Kolschey** » Thu Jun 17, 2010 9:51 pm

For straight edges, I use a dedicated plastic cutter that as specifically designed for cutting plexi etc.

Something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/P-800-Plastic-Lam ... B000BNLIKW

For .020 styrene etc, a #11 Exacto blade works, but for thicker stock, I find that you need a very different blade profile.

Andrew Gorman · Post by **Andrew Gorman** » Thu Jun 17, 2010 9:59 pm

I love this kind of plastic cutter:
http://www.amazon.com/Hyde-45730-Plasti ... 687&sr=1-5
Effective and easy easy to use. Makes a great scribing tool too!

DaveVan · Post by **DaveVan** » Thu Jun 17, 2010 10:06 pm

Score and snap......works great. A little clean up and you are ready.

Chacal · Post by **Chacal** » Fri Jun 18, 2010 7:58 am

I prefer my styrene scoring blades without a bevel, so my cuts are straight-sided. An X-Acto blade mounted the other way on the handle (with the tip in the holder and the 'butt' sticking out does the trick. The thicker the plastic, though, the thicker the blade I use.

First I do a rough shape cut, then I go in for indentations and curves (mostly with files and sanding sticks.

Dark Star · Post by **Dark Star** » Sat Jul 10, 2010 6:34 pm

Question for you guys who have or use some similar to this small table saw:

http://www.harborfreight.com/bench-top- ... 42307.html

Does it just cut short straight lines or can you cut curves with this thing? It looks like the handle with the blade saw just lifts up and down (like a waffle iron) so cutting fine detail or any curvatures would be a no go on this? Would one be able to slowly feed the sheets into this thing as the blade spins or no?

I need to cut long curved pieces (at least 9" to 10") out of a thick sheet of sheet styrene. If all this does is cut as you drop the hadle, it's going to be a PITA and difficult to keep any of the lines straight if I have to keep pulling out the styrene sheet and refitting it to cut!

Help!

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Sun Jul 11, 2010 10:36 am

It's just a chop saw... as in it chops things into smaller pieces.

en'til Zog · Post by **en'til Zog** » Sun Jul 11, 2010 6:52 pm

Many small straight cuts can make a rough curved shape. Then filing and sanding can smooth out the curve.

Slow? Yes.

But it works for thick stock.

Treadhead · Post by **Treadhead** » Thu Jul 15, 2010 11:27 am

Johnnycrash wrote:Just remember though, the break with scribe and snap isn't always clean. The snapped edge may have a slant to it. So, cut over sizes by just a little. Scribe, snap, and sand the edge back to the real dimension you want. It's just that easy.

Which is exactly what I do. Took me awhile to figure it all out though.

Mark Yungblut · Post by **Mark Yungblut** » Thu Jul 15, 2010 3:37 pm

I learned many years ago to draw two lines one for finish and one for cut (about 1/16th from the finish). When I worked for Kenner we used to scribe the finished line with an exacto and used a stump (think fabric bag with ground black pastel) to highlight the line. For curved I always used a band saw when applicable. I also use a jeweler's saw for my complicated cuts.

For precision work that is not over-sized I use my milling machine.

raser13 · Post by **raser13** » Fri Jul 16, 2010 11:35 pm

i use this baby!!

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af2 ... 001279.jpg

only works for straight cuts though. got it from a school rummage sale.