Problem With Trekmodeler Plug In Play Light Kit
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Problem With Trekmodeler Plug In Play Light Kit
I have big problem here. Everything was working perfectly when I installed all the electronics, sealed up the model, puttied and wet sanded all the joints, and put the whole thing together. Now all of a sudden Warp Mode doesn't work. When I flip it on everything shuts down and the flood and thruster lights start blinking in rapid pulses. Standby Mode works but the running lights don't blink. I can no longer accesses any of the components without completely ripping the model open and destroying it. If this isn't something real simple that corrects itself I'm gonna be in deep sh!t since there is no time to start over and I will end up loosing this commission and end up getting screwed. Anyone else have a problem like this? I e-mailed Trekmodeler but haven't gotten a reply yet.
Thomas E. Johnson
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Re: Problem With Trekmodeler Plug In Play Light Kit
My guess is that was the step that bit it, some bundle of wires got pinched in the process of snapping major subsections together, and or while clamping parts together while the glue set.Thomas E. Johnson wrote:I have big problem here. Everything was working perfectly when I installed all the electronics, sealed up the model, puttied and wet sanded all the joints, -snip-.
If you tested the electronics after the first step of fitting everything together and they worked, that was a good second test.
But then as you clamped and glued you need to have the effects basically running continuously or you will miss the final pinch point that actually bit through the insulation, this is the cirtical third test.
The only thing left is if some water got in there during the sanding process and deposited some bit of wire snipping or solder tidbit across a critical junction, pretty hard to do but not impossible.
<a href="http://www.kc6sye.com/2_wheresaneatpart.jpg" target="_Sparky">Is this plastic thingy on the counter a neat part?</a> <a href="http://www.kc6sye.com/1_casting_inprogress.jpg" target="_Sparky">Let's cast it.</a>
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Inspect for wires that were pinched hard enough to be cut, depending on the gauge wire , you can pinch cut them with a plastic edge. Ribbon cable like what is used for older Internal hard drives, I have personally seen pinch cut while dry fitting models together.
<a href="http://www.kc6sye.com/2_wheresaneatpart.jpg" target="_Sparky">Is this plastic thingy on the counter a neat part?</a> <a href="http://www.kc6sye.com/1_casting_inprogress.jpg" target="_Sparky">Let's cast it.</a>
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I moved the main relay in the saucer around and re-fixed it so there was more slack on the wires. I resealed the saucer, and both modes are working. Once the cement is set I will have to fill in the seam with some Aves. Still no blinking running lights though. The formation lights work just fine. I spoke with Trekmodeler's tech guy on the phone a few minutes ago and he said the circuits that control the running/formation lights are on the board in the bottom of the secondary hull, and that something in there may have gotten wet, and to let it dry for a day or 2 then see if the lights are working again. K hope thats the case, since I can't get the secondary hull open without destroying it. The seams are to well bonded.Sparky wrote:Inspect for wires that were pinched hard enough to be cut, depending on the gauge wire , you can pinch cut them with a plastic edge. Ribbon cable like what is used for older Internal hard drives, I have personally seen pinch cut while dry fitting models together.
Time for a trip to the liquor store.
Thomas E. Johnson
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before aves' it test again, if possible leave them running will clamping and gluing, since its the clamping that's likely to gouge or pinch a wire bundle.
<a href="http://www.kc6sye.com/2_wheresaneatpart.jpg" target="_Sparky">Is this plastic thingy on the counter a neat part?</a> <a href="http://www.kc6sye.com/1_casting_inprogress.jpg" target="_Sparky">Let's cast it.</a>
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Yeah I did that. Its working still. All Aves up now and waiting for a final quick sanding. I'm still waiting for the running lights to return to normal. Since the component that controls them isn't related to the problem with the saucer relay junction, I'm guessing that Trekmodeler is correct and some water got inside a chip and it needs to dry out. Perhaps I should hook up my airbrush hose and blow some air in through the deflector housing?Sparky wrote:before aves' it test again, if possible leave them running will clamping and gluing, since its the clamping that's likely to gouge or pinch a wire bundle.
Thomas E. Johnson
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Air brushes blow cold air, having to do with air pressure/volume changes....It could also help dislodge any bits of wire or solder that floating across connections though. Make sure you at least have a moisture trap on the line. Hate to add water to the interior.
<a href="http://www.kc6sye.com/2_wheresaneatpart.jpg" target="_Sparky">Is this plastic thingy on the counter a neat part?</a> <a href="http://www.kc6sye.com/1_casting_inprogress.jpg" target="_Sparky">Let's cast it.</a>
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Ya! did you use the air brush on the secondary hull avionics bay?
<a href="http://www.kc6sye.com/2_wheresaneatpart.jpg" target="_Sparky">Is this plastic thingy on the counter a neat part?</a> <a href="http://www.kc6sye.com/1_casting_inprogress.jpg" target="_Sparky">Let's cast it.</a>
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