New Mold + Clear Resin = Yellow?

Got a question about techniques, materials or other aspects of physically building a model? This is the place to ask.

Moderators: DasPhule, Moderators

Post Reply
User avatar
suwalski
Posts: 1326
Joined: Wed Jan 03, 2007 12:29 am
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Contact:

New Mold + Clear Resin = Yellow?

Post by suwalski »

Hi guys,

I have a question that maybe one of you more experienced folks can help answer.

I recently finished new molds for my parts (used Alumilite QuickSet). The molds turned out really well, and the opaque SmoothOn comes out really nicely.

However, when I used my water-clear Alumilite, I got a goopy, yellow mess. The next time I was more careful, and it was less goopy, but still very yellow. The third time around I decided that maybe I'm just having really bad luck with this fresh batch of resin, and I cast in the new and the old mold from the same mix:

http://pat.suwalski.net/temp/refit1000/ ... yellow.jpg

The new one's on the left, and it turned out less yellow and firmer than the previous castings, but the old mold still produced a significantly clearer and harder casting.

Is this normal for clear resins to need a broken-in mold? Is there some logical explanation to all this?

Thanks guys.
User avatar
modelnutz
Posts: 1598
Joined: Fri Aug 12, 2005 11:43 am
Location: behind the big desk

Post by modelnutz »

Good chance you're dealing with alcohol leaching from the new molds.
Try baking the molds in an oven at 180 deg. for an hour....let them cool and apply a good coating of mold release.
User avatar
Ziz
Posts: 9374
Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 9:24 pm
Location: Long Island, NY
Contact:

Post by Ziz »

Or just cast some more regular parts from the molds to naturally leech out the alcohol, then try a few clears.
Modular
Models

Build your fleet
YOUR way.

http://www.modular-models.com
----------------------------------------------------------
"I know you think you understand what you thought I said, but I'm not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant." - Alan Greenspan
____________________________________
"The customer that spends the least complains the most."
User avatar
suwalski
Posts: 1326
Joined: Wed Jan 03, 2007 12:29 am
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Contact:

Post by suwalski »

Thanks for the advice. I actually did bake them at 175 for about an hour before that last casting and that helped a little. I always use Stoner.

I noticed that the colour of the rubber is starting to fade in places. I assume this means it's stabilizing. I guess when the fresh rubber smell goes away I'll know it's ready.

I guess I'll start building up the opaque inventory, then. Thanks, guys.
User avatar
USS Atlantis
Posts: 2388
Joined: Sat Sep 08, 2007 6:44 pm
Location: Galaxy 217, Orion Arm, Sol System, Sol III, 44° 53' N 93° 13' W (Local coordinate system)
Contact:

Post by USS Atlantis »

Ya, if you're still smelling 'fresh rubber" it's still leeching

If I'm doing clear parts, I'll do a 2-3 hour bake of the mold at 150 before any casting
Atlantis (Ken)

Build Blog
User avatar
Umi_Ryuzuki
Posts: 3841
Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 2:22 pm
Location: PDX, Oregon
Contact:

Post by Umi_Ryuzuki »

I leave my molds to set for seven days, minimum before casting clear resin.

:wink:
'
"I have to go now,... because my life is stupid and leprachans are dorks."
Nyow!
/
=^o^=
User avatar
suwalski
Posts: 1326
Joined: Wed Jan 03, 2007 12:29 am
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Contact:

Post by suwalski »

All excellent advice. I'm surprised they don't list this in any of the FAQs out there. Thanks a bunch, guys.
Post Reply