Anyone use Alclad II Lacquer Metallics?

[No_6]

I'm considering trying these out due to the amazing range of colors they have. My other option is Tamiya rattle cans. However, I've never run anything but acrylics through my airbrush. Thoughts? Suggestions? Is it difficult using laquer metallics?

[Joseph Osborn]

These are the best metallic hobby paints you'll ever use. They shoot through the airbrush like a dream and cleanup is easy with hardware store lacquer thinner. You don't have to thin them! Follow the directions and you won't have any trouble. Heed the warning on the new bottles about avoiding decal setting solutions, too.

[Kylwell]

Lacquers, besides the fumes, are easier than enamels when airbrushing. Alclad II are the finest metal simulating paints out there (there are some slightly better mirror chrome paints but they can be a pain to find).

As with more lacquers, surface prep is paramount. Because lacquers actually shrink when curing they will show any surface flaws. Which is why for the polished metals it's recommended that you lay down a coat of gloss black before hand. I have used Tamiya gloss black acrylic & I have used Alclad II's gloss black base. Both seem to work equally. If the plastic is already black, you can cheat and hit it directly with the metal paint but you'll find the gloss coat helps hide those microscopic flaws you may have missed.

When applying Alclad II you need to work in thin coats and never let it build up on an area. WHen you first start to use it you will go though bottles like mad. The more you get used to how it works the less you expend getting a good coat of paint.

Cleaning is a breeze, provided you have an airbrush that can handle lacquer thinner. Most can now-a-days but check your manual or contact the manufacturer.

The reason it's a breeze is that lacquer based paints, unlike other solvent based paints, will totally re-energize by adding lacquer thinner. So all you need to do is spray a few (I usually do 3) cups (your color cup, not a measuring cup) of lacquer thinner and you should be good. Wipe the bowl clean and (or @ least I do) spray some regular acrylic cleaner through to lube things a bit and that's it.

[No_6]

Thanks for the advice! Well, I'm due to buy a new airbrush/compressor anyhow...

[Joseph C. Brown]

Any data on what psi to shoot it with, or approximate distances to the model? I have a few models in the build pipeline that are almost ready to be painted, and I'm also planning to give Alclad a try.

[Kylwell]

The lower the better.

Being lacquer it damned near dries instantly so the trick is learning what psi and how close.

[TER-OR]

What Robb said.

The chrome and polished aluminum are sensitive to pressure, drying very quickly. Lower is better, and keep your color cup mixed as they can settle out.

Best metallics out there, very durable and easy to use. Like most lacquers, they airbrush like a dream, but are stinky and like most metallics will stay in an airbrush for a long time - I use one of my older brushes exclusively for metallics now...

[Devin]

I really like them as well. I did my Cylon Raider in about four different shades (hard to make out in the photos) and it turned out really well. Super easy to use, dry fast, and stick like glue.

[Mr. Badwrench]

As others have mentioned, airbrush at low pressures, and use small batches. I use a siphon feed airbrush, (old Badger 150), and can only get the pressure down to maybe 7 or 8 psi, but with a gravity feed brush you can go lower. Since the metallic pigments like to settle quickly, just use a few drops at a time, and shake the bottle frequently.

Alclad responds really well to preshading. With the chrome and aluminum colors, a black undercoat will render a very bright, shiny finish. I've heard that the gold colors work better over a red or yellow undercoat, but I use first black, then chrome, then gold, and man I like the results. I've tried painting over gray or white, with black preshading in certain areas, and it shows up well under the Alclad.

[PetarB]

Interesting, I've never thought of preshading Alclad, must give it a go.

[Kylwell]

You can also use a matte black base and end up with a nice matte metal finish.

And yes, you can gloss coat then matte @ the wear areas to get a mutli-sheen finish.

[Scanam2006]

I agree that Alclad provides a great durable finish. As Kywell points out, you can go through a lot of bottles of it so spray lightly. Due to the amount of paint used Alclad can become very expensive for a large model

[Dukat, S.G.]

I love the stuff. I spray at about 12-15 psi. (My pressure gauge is old and not very precise below about 20 psi, so I'm guessing on that count.)

I'm working on a Klingon subject right now that has an Alclad II chrome base color (my thread about that one might still be buried somewhere here in Finishing). I found applying it over Mr. Surfacer 1200, which I "polished" with a decent toothpaste scrubbing, was darned-near flawless. But YMMV. To be safe, I'd go with a gloss black.

Anyhow ...

Since I need a flat coat atop the chrome to do several oil filters, I experimented with a few different ways to protect the Alclad. Dullcote on the Alclad was a no-no. (Testor's even put a warning on the rattlecan to the effect that it shouldn't be used over certain types of metal colors.)

But hand-paint a layer of Future atop the Alclad, let that cure for a few days, then go for a few light misting "Dullcotes." You'll be very happy with the result. If anything, the result looks even MORE like real metal.