Gorilla Super Glue.

merkin63 · Post by **merkin63** » Sun Nov 20, 2011 11:05 pm

I tried this on some of the WOTW alien kits and it made a very strong bond but any gaps were filled with regular super glue gel because the Gorilla super glue has rubber particles embedded in it and when I tried testing it on ABS and styrene it gave a good bond but due to the rubber content you could not get the glass smooth finish because the rubber would ball up even wet sanding.I was just curious if anyone has been able to use this for final sanding and a primer coat.Thanks,in advance.

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Mon Nov 21, 2011 8:15 pm

Why would you use it as a primer? It's not self leveling and would require sanding the entire surface.

You an get a glass smooth finish with it, done it several times but it's a glue, not paint.

merkin63 · Post by **merkin63** » Tue Nov 22, 2011 12:39 am

Sorry,I didn't word it correctly.I'm not using the glue as a primer as I never tested the glue for filling gaps in kits.I do like the glue because it is slightly flexible which works great on thinner,smaller parts that are easily broken or subject to light bumps and knocks.I guess the real question is has anyone tried or had success sanding the Gorilla glue to a smooth glass like finish.I still use Ambroid pro-weld or Weld-on 3 for all non vinyl kits but tried this on the original WOTW alien and it worked very well but still used super glue gel for gaps and final wet sanding after not having great success when I was testing wet sanding the glue out on scrap styrene,ABS,and vinyl but this stuff is strong,it even bonded scrap vinyl from the kit with all of the mold release not washed off and I couldn't pull the pieces apart.I tried this glue for quick repairs before shows and the fact that it acts as a natural shock absorber during transport no matter how well you think you packed your kit.I now use krylon flat white primer in mist coats for priming and the final wet sanding before using a tack cloth and airbrushing unless I'm using Alclad 2 metallic paint. Sorry for the confusion and thanks Kylwell for letting me know that you have had success in sanding this to a smooth finish as I did not spend a great deal of time testing out the sanding as I was more concerned with the glue bond and learned the hard way to always test new glues and paint that I have never used before diving into the kit :~D

G-man · Post by **G-man** » Tue Nov 22, 2011 1:51 am

PErsonally I love the stuff.
Gorilla Glue, Blue top.
KylWell there turned me onto it some time ago, and I use it almost exclusively for most everything i do. ( some exceptions).
As a gap filler. Dunno, Normally when i glue stuff together there arnt much in the way of gaps. I'm guessing that could be in part because the Gorilla glue is gelatinous enough to help fill them in as i glue the parts together.

George

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Tue Nov 22, 2011 10:54 am

The big issue with rubber impregnated CA is that it hardens a bit sower and when used thick it'll form a shell with the interior still being liquid. Makes for a heck of a mess if you start sanding away and hit a soft area. It sands wonderfully and with polishing film or sticks you can get it glass smooth. It'll be harder than the surrounding plastic so scribing can be a little exciting as you transition from the styrene to CA.

Oh, and quick note, don't buy the Locktite rubber CA. Looks like it comes in a similar sized bottle as the Gorilla but it's mostly packaging as the tiny tube inside will rapidly run out.

G-man · Post by **G-man** » Tue Nov 22, 2011 2:46 pm

hmm.. Never had that issue with gorilla, But ..normally i spread it pretty thin, I am one of the "Sand it to fit" guys when ever possible.
I didn't realize it was rubberized though.
All gorilla glue? or just certain variations?
George

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Tue Nov 22, 2011 2:54 pm

It'll say "rubber toughened" or some such. The addition of the rubber increases the CA shear strength massively.

merkin63 · Post by **merkin63** » Tue Nov 22, 2011 3:47 pm

Thanks for all the input guys.I have used CA gel for years,just not the Gorilla brand before.I do love this stuff but it seems to take a bit longer to cure but I can live with that due to how strong and non brittle it is.I too try to sand and shave ejector pins to get the best fit but as we all know that isn't always possible with some kits.I really just try to use CA for final finishing due to time because of my hectic life.As pointed out CA will cure harder than the plastic,and if you can't find the time to get back to work after applying it for 24 hours it becomes a real pain to sand because it is harder than the plastic.Thanks again :~D