Ok so I have painted a long while, with my craft paint I used to just shake and paint out of the caps, on my model masters, I don't shake them I stir them to keep the over flow off the inside cap and sticking then usually let the extra drip onto some plastic surface to paint with.
Is this the best way to do it since pouring the paint out for very small applications it would dry out the whole bottle.
How do you paint?
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- southwestforests
- Posts: 3426
- Joined: Sun Oct 24, 2010 3:09 pm
- Location: Right smack in middle of Missouri
"Best way" in painting tends to usually work out more precisely as 'best way for your way of doing things given what you are doing at the time' but there actuality are some universal truths.
One being, the less air reaching the paint that's not actively in use, the better. And your Model Master paint method fits that perfectly. Plus, the less bottle tipping, the less bottle spilling.
One being, the less air reaching the paint that's not actively in use, the better. And your Model Master paint method fits that perfectly. Plus, the less bottle tipping, the less bottle spilling.
"There are a thousand things that can happen when you go light a rocket engine, and only one of them is good."
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- Mr. Badwrench
- Posts: 9587
- Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 6:31 pm
- Location: Wheatridge, Co.
With Model Master enamels, I put a small, stainless steel nut in the jar. (You can use BBs or steel shot, I use 1/4-20 nuts because I've got a bunch lying around). This helps agitate the paint when shaking, scrapes the pigment off the bottom and sides, really mixes it well. I use eye droppers to transfer paint into the airbrush, and also to mix thinner. So, a few drops of paint, about the same amount of thinner, (lacquer thinner works great with MM enamel), then squeeze it all in and out of the eyedropper a few times to thoroughly mix it. If I've got any paint on the threads of the bottle or lid, wipe it off before screwing the lid back on. I've heard some people smear on a little Vasaline around the lip of the bottle to help seal it, but that seems like going overboard to me.
I speak of the pompatous of plastic.
I did everything you're told not to do.
I thin in the jar.
I a/b @ exceeding low pressures.
No droppers, just pour.
Thin w/o measuring
I do though use a paint mixing pallet to thin oils for washes & Vallejo's for hand painting.
And no, I don't use craft paints. Tamiya, Vallejo, Gunze or Alclad II with occasional dipping into art inks & paints. Like the new Holbein Vernet oils... such nice oils..
I thin in the jar.
I a/b @ exceeding low pressures.
No droppers, just pour.
Thin w/o measuring
I do though use a paint mixing pallet to thin oils for washes & Vallejo's for hand painting.
And no, I don't use craft paints. Tamiya, Vallejo, Gunze or Alclad II with occasional dipping into art inks & paints. Like the new Holbein Vernet oils... such nice oils..
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- Lt. Z0mBe
- Posts: 7311
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- Location: Balltown Kentucky, by God!
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I keep a paint bible when airbrushing new brands of paint and mixing new custom colors, washes and glazes, complete with a color chip and formula. I use all kinds of paint - craft, Tamiya, Gunze, oil, Winsor & Newton, dragon poo, etc....
When mixing, I never put thinned stuff back in the jar so as to preserve the binders in the paint - not as much of an issue with water, but it's a good habit nonetheless. I use a dropper, counting drops to reach what my recipe says I need to get to for my color chip if I am going for a customer color. If mixing for airbrush, I do the same with paint, Future, Liquitex a/b medium, fluid medium and the like, starting with the formula I have on file for the given brand of paint and adjusting as I go. A lot of the time it seems like certain colors within a given brand have different consitencies, most likely due to the specific gravity of the pigment I have heard meaning Tamiya blue, for instance may need a little more isopropyl or less airbrush medium than Tamiya black.
Mixing paints in the bottle I do what works best for the paint type. For example, Valero paints obviously get shaken as do craft paints. Tamiya, Gunze and Testors I will usually stir in the bottle with a piece of sprue. I theorize stirring up the settled pigment and medium helps put off the dreaded clumping of medium and pigment seen over time, though I have no hard evidence to back this up.
I hope this helps a bit.
Kenny
When mixing, I never put thinned stuff back in the jar so as to preserve the binders in the paint - not as much of an issue with water, but it's a good habit nonetheless. I use a dropper, counting drops to reach what my recipe says I need to get to for my color chip if I am going for a customer color. If mixing for airbrush, I do the same with paint, Future, Liquitex a/b medium, fluid medium and the like, starting with the formula I have on file for the given brand of paint and adjusting as I go. A lot of the time it seems like certain colors within a given brand have different consitencies, most likely due to the specific gravity of the pigment I have heard meaning Tamiya blue, for instance may need a little more isopropyl or less airbrush medium than Tamiya black.
Mixing paints in the bottle I do what works best for the paint type. For example, Valero paints obviously get shaken as do craft paints. Tamiya, Gunze and Testors I will usually stir in the bottle with a piece of sprue. I theorize stirring up the settled pigment and medium helps put off the dreaded clumping of medium and pigment seen over time, though I have no hard evidence to back this up.
I hope this helps a bit.
Kenny
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- Spammer - Locked
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I also do it in the way you do it.I am satisfied by the output I get by this method.
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- Glorfindel
- Posts: 1549
- Joined: Sat May 02, 2009 7:00 pm
- Location: Long Island, NY
I like your style. It's like artistic licensing.....just wing it. Your AB-ing probably comes out great 99% of the time.Kylwell wrote:I did everything you're told not to do.
I thin in the jar.
I a/b @ exceeding low pressures.
No droppers, just pour.
Thin w/o measuring
Buck Laughlin: [after Beatrice the dog jumps up on the show judge] He went for her like she's made outta ham.
~Best in Show, 2000
~Best in Show, 2000
Its good style but before to pain anything you need to keep these points in mind:-
Remove all the possible dusts,
Wash object and painted place,
Go with proper sign,
Apply your selected paint,
Paint slowly and in a right way,
Remove extra paint and polish with clothe.
For more information
Remove all the possible dusts,
Wash object and painted place,
Go with proper sign,
Apply your selected paint,
Paint slowly and in a right way,
Remove extra paint and polish with clothe.
For more information
Last edited by Adamjohn on Fri Sep 26, 2014 2:06 am, edited 1 time in total.