Shapeways Materials

[its-jess]

I see this question asked quite frequently. Perhaps it is deserved of a Sticky here....

"How do Shapeways materials look?"

I do have SOME experience with different materials, but perhaps others would like to chime in (especially if you can provide links to "in hand" examples"). I know there is at least one modeler here who has purchased multiple models in different materials. Here is my take:

WSF (White, Strong, and Flexible): The cheapest. NOT recommended for fine detail, and NOT recommended for a smooth surface. Will be a little rough and require sanding. "soaks up paint" is a common comment, although at smaller scales (1/2500 Starships) you can achieve acceptable results after sanding, priming, and painting.

WSFP (White Strong and Flexible Polished): as above, but it will come to you a little smoother. Think of getting this material if you basically just want less sanding before priming.

Any of the "Detail" Materials: More expensive, but better results. This is where you will get finer details, smooth surfaces, and takes paint well. People usually describe it as brittle and very fragile, but I have had no issues with breakage (although admittedly I have never conducted a "drop test").

Also, most items, even the "Ultra Detail" may require SOME sanding, as the printing process will sometimes leave "resolution lines". Also note that these materials, in general, are harder than styrene and sanding may be also!

Another common issue is placing an order, then being told that it cannot be processed. This is usually the result of a 3D file that has an error somewhere, that the seller isn't aware of until Shapeways attempts to print it- this has happened to me on several occasions. I use multiple programs to check my files for water tightness, minimum dimensions, etc, but occasionally something gets past their initial check that still cant be printed. Be aware that if you order something and it wont print, Shapeways offers you a CREDIT, not a refund. What is more difficult is that they do not give the ability for the seller to easily see who the buyer is, so even when a credit is issued and the seller reworks the file, notifying the buyer that there is a viable replacement ready can be difficult.

Anyone have more to add?

[Joseph Osborn]

I've only gotten FUD (frosted ultra detail) parts from Shapeways. In my opinion, the quality of this material is good but not great. It's a good compromise between cost and quality. When/if they ever give us a chance to specify the printing orientation, parts in FUD will be a great choice.

[Squall67584]

I just got in a couple of test parts in made from Frosted Detail. Seems fairly smooth, and though I can see the resolution lines, I can't feel them. I didn't have a problem with minimum thickness, cause I took that into account when designing the part. I'll have to redraw them since I got a few things wrong, but it was pretty cool to hold something I drew in my hand.

[Redgriffin]

I got the white plastic models bottom of line they were a like rough but all I needed to do was work they with a very fine sandpaper or steel wool and rub it with a tack cloth and they were ready for paint. So Quality is very good enough for a static diorama.

[nicholassagan]

Before I really got into it, I had a couple of things printed in WSF and they do NOT clean up nicely for masters. Good for small one-offs if you just want some army builders, so to speak.

Now I always go with FUD. Hands down the best they offer. My Gozanti (350+2256), Dreadnaught (4222+10k), ISD Domes in 4222 and Consular refit parts were all in that material. I also have some other masters on my bench in the same...My experience is that if the file is good, the print will be.

Also, if there is a surface that has a lot of detail, say a Star Destroyer trench or droid strip on an X-Wing, it's best to separate those areas as their own piece and face the detail upwards. The printers they use handle detail better at the lateral orientation as opposed to vertical.

Usually when I get a print I'll wash it up (they've been more, um, relaxed about that as of late) and then hit it with a light coat of primer. That will reveal any smaller imperfections or resolution lines. Then I sand away to get surfaces totally smooth! FUD also scribes really nicely if you're careful.

I also go through PCS and they have a material that is comparable, if not the same as FUD. However Jeff is much more considerate with the files and cleanup and results in a better product for not that much more cost.

[Peter Sarkisian]

Hi, i saw in your comment that you use PCS as an alternative to Shapeways. Can you tell me what PCS stands for, and might you have a link to their website? A google search turned up nothing.

also, any info on additional online 3D printing services would be awesome.


Thanks very much, Peter

[nicholassagan]

PCS Engineering http://pcsenginc.com/

[Tankmodeler]

PCS Engineering http://pcsenginc.com/

Good people! They printed the master for the Ithacus pattern I made for Fantastic Plastic

[Squall67584]

Hmmm, apparently, I became a victim of Shapeways "one minute its printable, the next its not" phenomena. Last month I had a model printed, and after looking at it changed a couple of features, and resubmitted it. However, now they're saying that it's unprintable, and when they highlight the area in question, it's no where near any of the parts that were edited and the model checks out the same way it did before... Perhaps I'll give PCS a go.

[DeltaVee]

I always go up on material quality if it's just $2-3 between WSF and WSF Polished. Sometimes it's $10 or more, and I'm not gonna do that unless the subject is "grail" status to me. Not sure what accounts for the difference in what's charged.
The material is pretty tough. I've bent parts accidently that would snap if it were injection plastic. So that's good. But it is harder to sand.
In general more detailed models and recessed detail like windows are harder to bring up to typical scale model standards.
I've had good results with Gunze Mr. Resin Primer Surfacer in the spray can and bottle on models with larger detail. But you tend to lose windows on 3-4-inch starships and inside surfaces - think STNG Romulan Warbirds - are harder to reach and coat.