finish window lines after removing masks?

wallawally · Post by **wallawally** » Sun Dec 08, 2013 2:40 pm

This is my first model kit project and I have learned a lot about what not to do. But now I'm stuck at the window lines. What is the best way to clean up the areas where paint ran under the mask and where I messed up removing the maskes? I primed with acrylic rattle can primer, then 2 coats acrylic in airbrush then I sealed it with krylon crystal clear. I think it was to thick around the windows and now there are very hard lines. I would be very greatful for any help.

http://imageshack.us/a/img855/5025/yvo3.jpg

SpaceRanger1 · Post by **SpaceRanger1** » Sun Dec 08, 2013 3:34 pm

Maybe it's the camera angle, but it looks to me like you've applied the paint way too thick to start. That's easy to do with a rattle can. I'd suggest, as you have an air brush, to use nothing else and apply the paint in very light coats.

What did you use to mask the windows? In spite of some of the newer products, I've always had good luck with good ol' Scotch brand Magic tape (the green-label regular tape of the blue-label low tack variety). Because they are frosted, it's easy to see where they have not been burnished down completely.

But back to the problem of removing the paint where you don't want it. Put a brand-new #11 X-Acto blade (or similar) in your hobby knife and lightly scribe along the window panels where the paint has slopped out onto the windows. Then make a chisel by sharpening the end of a toothpick. Moisten the sharpened end in acrylic paint thinner or Windex and use it to carefully scrape away the unwanted paint. This may take several tries, but it can be done.

Above all, don't get discouraged, especially if this is your first model; just use it as a learning experience. We've all been there, and nobody builds a perfect model. I've been building models for over fifty years and still make mistakes!

wallawally · Post by **wallawally** » Sun Dec 08, 2013 3:51 pm

Thank I will try the toothpick. I used the rattle cans because I had them on hand and didn't have anything to put in the airbrush. I used testors masking tape for the windows and it was horrible getting it off. I think another problem was my inpatients. I don't think I let anything cure enough before moving to the next step.

CePeAi · Post by **CePeAi** » Sun Dec 08, 2013 7:20 pm

And remove the inline images, not permitted as per Agreed Forum Rules.

Rocketeer · Post by **Rocketeer** » Mon Dec 09, 2013 11:35 am

I've come to prefer Tamiya masking tape. It has just the right amount of tack, and it's possible to get very crisp lines using it. Since it's expensive, I only use it for the edges, and then fill in the larger areas with ordinary blue painter's tape.

It also helps to go around the edges of your masking with a toothpick, making sure the tape is pressed down firmly, before painting.

You should also remove the masking after the paints is no longer runny, but before the paint dries completely; it come off much easier and the edges are crisper. You've got to keep your fingers out of the soft paint, though

Don't mask again until the paint is thoroughly dry; be patient. (This is why Olde Crusty Modelers all have several projects going at once-- work on one while the paint dries on another. Well, that and attention deficit disorder.)

dizzyfugu · Post by **dizzyfugu** » Fri Jan 03, 2014 5:49 am

Rocketeer wrote: You should also remove the masking after the paints is no longer runny, but before the paint dries completely; it come off much easier and the edges are crisper. You've got to keep your fingers out of the soft paint, though

Best method in order to avoid hard edges!

And agree to the toothpick method for cleaning up paint residue - safest way, I even try to get along without any thinner at all, avoiding chemical reactions and cleaning mistakes mechanically. Takes some experience and feeling for the stuff, but works fine.