I've heard that Testors Decal Bonder can be sprayed over decals after they are applied onto a model to seal them and hide the decal film edges.
Does this work?
In the past I've sprayed Future over the decals after they are applied on a model and still see the edges. I've had to use micro mesh polishing cloths to polish the Future to hide the decal edges but it's a lot of work and handling of the model.
Will Testors Decal Bonder sprayed over the decals hide the edges.
When using Round 2 kit supplied decals they tends to be thick and even Walther's Solvaset won't dissolve the clear film.
Testors Decal Bonder...
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- TurkeyVolumeGuessingMan
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I'm not sure about Testors's products. I have a small bottle of Testors "Decal Set," but I think that's just for setting the decal. This product you speak of probably does not need to be sprayed; you just brush it on. Here's what I do know:
1. Give the model a gloss clear coat.
2. Micro Set/Mr. Mark Setter: Brush this onto the decal area first to prepare the surface for the waterslide decal. This allows you to easily reposition the decal as necessary once applied.
3. Micro Sol/Mr. Mark Softer: This melts the decal onto the gloss coat.
4. Give the model another clear coat, whether gloss or flat or whatever. This seals the decal into place, and when using the decal melter and sandwiching the decal between the two clear coats, the outline of the decal will either disappear completely or be pretty hard to see.
Some more experienced modelers can chime in here and provide better information than this.
1. Give the model a gloss clear coat.
2. Micro Set/Mr. Mark Setter: Brush this onto the decal area first to prepare the surface for the waterslide decal. This allows you to easily reposition the decal as necessary once applied.
3. Micro Sol/Mr. Mark Softer: This melts the decal onto the gloss coat.
4. Give the model another clear coat, whether gloss or flat or whatever. This seals the decal into place, and when using the decal melter and sandwiching the decal between the two clear coats, the outline of the decal will either disappear completely or be pretty hard to see.
Some more experienced modelers can chime in here and provide better information than this.
Greg
Plastic modeling and other nerd stuff in Japan on my YouTube channel
My WIP modeling page on Tumblr.
One day I was walking and I found this big log. Then I rolled the log over and underneath was a tiny little stick. And I was like, "That log had a child!"
Plastic modeling and other nerd stuff in Japan on my YouTube channel
My WIP modeling page on Tumblr.
One day I was walking and I found this big log. Then I rolled the log over and underneath was a tiny little stick. And I was like, "That log had a child!"
- Joseph Osborn
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Testors Decal Bonder is meant to be used as the top sealing coat for inkjet- printed decals. It is not intended for spraying decals that have been applied to a model. I guess you could, since the can I have seems to be nothing more than glosscoat lacquer. The trick to hiding the edges of decals is to apply them to a glossy surface and use a setting solution, then applying another clear coat after the decals have dried. Some kit decals, like Round 2's, are so thick that the edges are virtually impossible to hide.
They claim it can also be used to strengthen an old, dry decal sheet, but I personally think that Microscale's liquid decal film is a better choice for that job.
They claim it can also be used to strengthen an old, dry decal sheet, but I personally think that Microscale's liquid decal film is a better choice for that job.
<i>Fireball Modelworks</i>
- TurkeyVolumeGuessingMan
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Have you heard of Tamiya's Mark Fit Strong? I understand that it is designed for tough decals like that.Joseph Osborn wrote:Some kit decals, like Round 2's, are so thick that the edges are virtually impossible to hide.
I just realized that I have Testors Decal Bonder. I've used it to keep brittle decals intact. Even fairly new decals. I built a Tamiya car model and the decals for that were extremely brittle. I sprayed them with Testors Decal Bonder and they worked well. This won't be a good replacement for a decal melter like Microscale's Micro Sol, Mr. Hobby's Mark Softer, or Tamiya's Mark Fit.Joseph Osborn wrote:They claim it can also be used to strengthen an old, dry decal sheet, but I personally think that Microscale's liquid decal film is a better choice for that job.
I haven't tried Microscale's liquid decal film. I just did a quick search and saw that it comes in the same size bottle as their other stuff. So you just brush it on, huh?
Greg
Plastic modeling and other nerd stuff in Japan on my YouTube channel
My WIP modeling page on Tumblr.
One day I was walking and I found this big log. Then I rolled the log over and underneath was a tiny little stick. And I was like, "That log had a child!"
Plastic modeling and other nerd stuff in Japan on my YouTube channel
My WIP modeling page on Tumblr.
One day I was walking and I found this big log. Then I rolled the log over and underneath was a tiny little stick. And I was like, "That log had a child!"
I'll try some Tamiya Mark Fit Strong and see if it kelps with the decals.TurkeyVolumeGuessingMan wrote: Have you heard of Tamiya's Mark Fit Strong? I understand that it is designed for tough decals like that.
I just realized that I have Testors Decal Bonder. I've used it to keep brittle decals intact. Even fairly new decals. I built a Tamiya car model and the decals for that were extremely brittle. I sprayed them with Testors Decal Bonder and they worked well. This won't be a good replacement for a decal melter like Microscale's Micro Sol, Mr. Hobby's Mark Softer, or Tamiya's Mark Fit.
I haven't tried Microscale's liquid decal film. I just did a quick search and saw that it comes in the same size bottle as their other stuff. So you just brush it on, huh?
You just brush on Microscale's Liquid Decal Film and it dries flat with no brush strokes. I've used it many times on Laser printed decals and it keeps the printed toner from lifting. It's also real thin and works great.