The best glue?
Moderators: DasPhule, Moderators
The best glue?
What is the best glue to use on models, so a few years from now the model is not falling apart? Thanks
Which material? Everything is relative... and you will certainly receive a dozen of replies!
DizzyFugu - Reporting from Germany
http://www.flickr.com/dizzyfugu
http://www.flickr.com/dizzyfugu
-
- Posts: 3204
- Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2005 7:37 pm
- Location: Fremont, CA (near Milpitas north of Golfland USA)
- Contact:
For styrene plastic kits, Testors brand plastic cement works great to fuse the plastic. Get the red tube though rather than the blue if you have a choice. You can also get it as a thinned liquid in a bottle for brushing along joints.
For clear parts not undergoing any stress I like canopy glue which is basically thinned white glue. Otherwise I use Testors cement, being careful not to use too much so as not to get glue smudges on the visible areas of the clear part.
CA (or Superglue) is great for joining dissimilar materials, like brass or metal to plastic, but it doesn't fuse the parts together so won't take a lot of flexing. It also dries fast especially if you use it in tandem with an accelerant. CA also gives off fumes which will fog clear parts so use it with caution on windows. Some modellers will paint clear parts with an acrylic clearcoat like Future acrylic floor finish (although I think it's sold now as Pledge with Future Shine or somethng like that). The acrylic coat acts as a barrier layer to protect the clear plastic from fogging.
For clear parts not undergoing any stress I like canopy glue which is basically thinned white glue. Otherwise I use Testors cement, being careful not to use too much so as not to get glue smudges on the visible areas of the clear part.
CA (or Superglue) is great for joining dissimilar materials, like brass or metal to plastic, but it doesn't fuse the parts together so won't take a lot of flexing. It also dries fast especially if you use it in tandem with an accelerant. CA also gives off fumes which will fog clear parts so use it with caution on windows. Some modellers will paint clear parts with an acrylic clearcoat like Future acrylic floor finish (although I think it's sold now as Pledge with Future Shine or somethng like that). The acrylic coat acts as a barrier layer to protect the clear plastic from fogging.
"Well--we'll be safe for now--thank goodness we're in a bowling alley--"
Not to mention those bonds created with Toluene-based tube glue can become brittle with age. I still have the Ent-D I built in 1988, and none of those original tube-cemented joints held in the first ten years.Kylwell wrote: Testor's tube glue takes to long and the fumes give me splitting headaches.
Using liquid cements (Testors, Tenax, Ambroid) does have a learning curve, but it's far better for build longevity. (unless you're flying your models around the room with swooshing and pew pew sounds)
"Of all the chili that I've eaten in my travels, this has the most.......Cumin."