Gloss & Dull coats

[Captain Riker]

The "porthole" windows aren't as much of a concern as a little fogging wouldn't be an issue. as long as white light still got through, the dulling might just make it less bright. It's the arboretum, officer's lounge, nacelles, and deflector that would be at issue.

Think about it for a sec... how does a matte clear coat work?

TBH, I imagine it as clear, but less shiny. I can only imagine that it would block some light though and affect the color of said light. Like I said, I have no problem masking the areas mentioned above, but if I have to remask all the windows then I'm leaving it with a coat of Future and that's it.

sigh. maybe a shiny refit isn't so bad

[Kylwell]

As a note, if you're not looking for optically clear you can always hand brush a little clear gloss over the matte to restore the clear shine.

[Captain Riker]

How well does brushing Future work? Do I risk streaking? That might be an option for the areas I want to be careful about. Brush around them.

[Kylwell]

Future self levels very well. It only takes a bit.

[TurkeyVolumeGuessingMan]

I've had that happen, but with a batch of Flattened Future that wasn't fresh, from a bottle that's been sitting for more than a few months. Which is why I only mix as needed and don't re-use the remiander.

Oh, wow. This is news to me. I've had an unused, small glass bottle of Tamiya-flattened Future for a few years now and I have been thinking of using it again. I'll take people's word on this, but I don't understand why this would need to be fresh. It separates for sure, but I figured that as long as it is stirred up just fine, there wouldn't be a problem. Is there some sort of chemical interaction that transpires when Tamiya Flat Base and Future are mixed together?

I am VERY glad that I read this here before going ahead and using my mixture I've had for the past 2.5 years.

[Saturn]

I've been using Flattened Future for over 10 years. And I used a battery powered mixer too. The white blasting happened to me once and that was enough. And it only happened when I used a old batch instead of mixing fresh. (and no, I've never heard similar reports blaming on age)

When Flattened Future settles, it separates into three parts- Future, Tamiya carrier and the Tamiya flat base. I clearly saw that in the 1/4 oz bottle I had stored the batch in. Maybe that settling is what causes it.

[TurkeyVolumeGuessingMan]

So apparently the culprit is just that the flat Future wasn't mixed thoroughly enough then, right? I first learned about mixing up batches of flat Future on Swanny's page too, but he doesn't make mention of throwing unused portions away.

I have a super glossy enamel spoon I painted as a test piece a couple of weekends ago. I think I can test my old batch of flat Future on it and see if this happens.

[Saturn]

I use a Badger battery powered mixer for 30-60 seconds when I thin or mix. I'm fairly certain it wasn't because I didn't mix thoroughly.

I picked up the Flattened Future thing on rec.models.scale a jizillion years ago.

[crowe-t]

I've switched to using Testors Create FX acrylic Clear for dull coating models.

I was using Testors Acryl Flat & Semi Gloss Clear but it tends to be slightly yellow when it builds up.

Testors Create FX acrylic Clears are excellent. They are crystal clear and the finish is wonderful. They are similar to the old Polly Scale acrylics and maybe even better.

[willis]

I used some Mr. Hobby lacquer Gloss Coat after decals, got the dreaded orange peel. It was a bit humid outside, but never happened before. I am coating a small 1/144 millenium falcon. Is there any way the peel would be less noticable after dull coat and weathering, or will it still be there?

I am trying to decide if I should sand the gloss coat a bit carefully, around the decals, to try and remove it.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks,

[Kylwell]

What was the under paint?

[willis]

Tamiya flat rattle can lacquer

[Kylwell]

Have you had this issue before? Lacquer on lacquer can cause issues but not normally. Humidity can be an issue but usually too little IIRC.

[willis]

I have had an issue with humidity and acrylic clear making orange peel but that was when it was about to rain outside
Any ideas on how to help the model look better at this point? Thanks

[willis]

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/q68 ... aube2p.jpg

[willis]

accidental repost sorry

[crowe-t]

Has anyone had problems with acrylic clear not fully curing?

Sometimes when I spray Testors acrylic clear it stays soft.

Edit - This sort of cleared up for me.

[crowe-t]

Has anyone noticed that Testors Acryl Clears have a slight yellow tint?

[Kylwell]

Only when reeeeeeally old.

[SGCSG1]

I'm looking for recommendations on thinner ratio and PSI for the Tamiya clears.

Generally I thin Tamiya acrylic paint 2 parts paint to 1 part thinner and spray about 18 psi.

But people are suggesting thinning the clears 50/50 or even 20/80 (paint to thinner).

Any suggestions on using these?

[Lt. Z0mBe]

I'm looking for recommendations on thinner ratio and PSI for the Tamiya clears.

Generally I thin Tamiya acrylic paint 2 parts paint to 1 part thinner and spray about 18 psi.

But people are suggesting thinning the clears 50/50 or even 20/80 (paint to thinner).

Any suggestions on using these?

I can't tell you the mixture for Tamiya clear coat - I use Future for gloss and Liquitex matte for flat. But, I can recommend how you can find out. Go get some plastic, disposable spoons and give them a quick cleaning with Windex or alcohol. Airbrush their undersides the smoothest, blackest black you can and allow them to cure. Then, start out at 50/50 and see how the clearcoat airbrushes over the black spoon at say 20PSI. Dump out mixture and try again at 60/40, then repeat at 30/70 and so on until you get smooth clear coats with minimal frosting. This is how I add entries to my Paint Bible. Though it's time consuming, it is worth it in the long run.

I shoot clearcoats at 20-to-22 PSI with success. For me, the biggest concern, even with Slow-Dri and Flow-Aid is the distance from the target. Too far, and your clearcoat frosts but if you're too close, you can get puddling or softening of the color coats.

I hope this helps a bit.

Kenny

[Jimmer]

I got into modeling last year and have a question regarding the finishing coat I plan to use on my current build, was hoping for a little input if anyone has the time.

I'm currently building the Bandai R2-D2/R5-D4 kit (which is excellent in my opinion) and am completing the R5 droid first to help iron out any building issues before completing R2.

I painted all silver metallic parts with Testors Spray Enamel Metallic Silver 1246.

Following steps I plan on are:

1. giving model a gloss coat with Pledge Future.

2. applying water slide decals with Micro-Set and Micro-Sol.

3. sealing decals with 2nd coat of Future.

4. weathering with panel line wash and Tamiya weather master kit.

5. sealing model with a dull coat

My question is, I have a can of Model Master Lusterless Flat Lacquer Clear Coat and didn't know if this would be safe to use as a final coat.

I have read that clear coats will react badly with the Testors Silver spray paint. Also, the Model Master lusterless is made by testors but seems to be from a separate "line" than the silver paint. I hoped that the layers of future I plan on using would protect the silver metallic paint but thought I might check with the experts here to see if anyone might have suggestions or warnings.

I would have stayed away from the Testors Metallic Silver but I didn't read about the potential for damage from clear coats until after I had used it. (Also, I do plan on allowing 48 hr cure times with the Future before applying decals and before 2nd coat of future).

Thanks for any advice.

Jim

[Saturn]

Clearcoats and Natural Metal Finishes usually aren't a good idea. You could get away with it, But testing on a piece of scrap plastic would be advisable.

But I would mask the metallic parts prior to your overcoating the rest of the model. (low tack material so you won't damage the NMF, like post it notes)

[Jimmer]

That's what I was afraid of. A couple of waterslide decals have to go on areas that I have painted metallic silver, so I guess I will apply Future to those spots (and use Micro-Set & Micro-Sol). Afraid to apply the decals without a gloss finish.

Thanks for the info.

[Saturn]

any metallic paint (Testors, Alclad, Tamiya) will lay down smoother than flat paint. You can skip the Future coat as decal prep on NMF.

But I would trim the decal as close as I can eliminate carrier film.. And knock it down with Solvaset.

[battlestar62]

wow the more I learn the less I understand.

[EVApodman]

When you apply pastels to a model and then seal it in you want the powder to remain fixed to the model without disturbing it.

I made the Millennium Falcon when it first came out I used pastels for weathering it. I used a can of Dullcote, but when I applied it it did it too heavily and the pastels puddled in places. I should have applied it in several light coats from a distance to secure the powder in place.

However this will leave the model with a very grainy feel and appearance. I suggest that after you are certain the powder is securely in place to use a large, flexible brush like a Floquil or make-up brush and lightly brush the surface to remove loose particles of spray with out disturbing the pastels underneath.

Once this is done you can apply another coat of matte to further seal in and even out the look of the coating.

[seam-filler]

I made the Millennium Falcon when it first came out I used pastels for weathering it. I used a can of Dullcote, but when I applied it it did it too heavily and the pastels puddled in places. I should have applied it in several light coats from a distance to secure the powder in place.

You need to watch what type of pastels you buy. For them to "puddle", I presume that you have inadvertently bought soluble pastels. The ne I get are specifically called "chalk pastels" in the UK and are non-soluble. I grind them onto medium sandpaper which gives a very fine dust and never results in graininess (in look or feel). I brush or even blow away any excess.

Having said that, it is still far better to apply light coats of your chosen flat finish rather than one thicker coat.

[EVApodman]

They were artists pastels and I still have them from over 30 years ago. This was my first attempt at weathering a kit.

[starmanmm]

So I picked up a bottle of Testor's Dullcote Top Coat (1160X). My question is what would you cut this with to shoot it thru an air brush and at what PSI?

Thanks