Quick and Dirty Resin Casting?

[Tchail]

I have EnviroTex Lite bi-part resin, and I'm wondering if there's a way to make a quick and dirty resin cast of a model part. Perhaps using Super Scupey as a mold.

I'd like to make clear domes for my 1/2500 Romulan Bird of Prey, and there's also a ladder-pattern on the engine of a 1/1000 Klingon BOP that I'd like to duplicate so I can add missing detail on the kit.

Thanks in advance for a any tips!

[Joseph C. Brown]

I was about to yell "NO! Not EnviroTex - it'll melt your model!"

Then I realized that the last time I personally used EnviroTex was back in '81, so I have no clue what the EnviroTex Lite may do. Maybe another, more recent user of it will surface?

[Kekker]

Instead of Sculpy or some other heat curing polymer, use a two-part putty like Milliput, Aves, or even epoxy putty for the mold.

I did this for the little domes on the Excelsior, and then just melted the end of a clear sprue and squash molded new ones.

Just make sure you use some kind of release so it doesn't stick!

[TER-OR]

Super Sculpy? I'd be careful.

At craft stores you can get silicone mold putty, it comes in two jars. You knead and then press over the part - or vice versa.

There's also an interesting heat-melt mold which is very promising.

Remember Envirotex Light take quite a while to cure unless it's a thin layer, so put it in a safe clean place for a couple of days.

[Rogviler]

For quick stuff, I like to use silicone caulk. Make sure it's 100% and the clear stuff. The trick is to mix in a pea-size amount of acrylic paint, like you'd mix body filler. Then it sets up within minutes.

Fair warning: it'll make the house reek of vinegar, so do it outside if you care.

-Rog

[Tchail]

I was about to yell "NO! Not EnviroTex - it'll melt your model!"

Then I realized that the last time I personally used EnviroTex was back in '81, so I have no clue what the EnviroTex Lite may do. Maybe another, more recent user of it will surface?

Don Matthys, over at DLMParts, used to have a web page with tips on lighting the non-clear Enterprise-D. He suggested drilling out the windows and then using EnviroTex Lite to fill them.

I tried it with an Enterprise-D kit, and it does work without melting you model. After all, it's just casting resin.

But the main drawback is that cutting out the windows an insane amount of work.

It really makes me wish that Round 2 would do another run of the clear kits...

[tetsujin]

You know, since the windows on the Enterprise-D kit are recessed, I wonder if it might make sense, instead of drilling out the windows, to cut away material from behind the window instead? Still a lot of individual windows to deal with but you wouldn't have to cut out the window's shape - just thin down the part until the window's no longer blocked.

[modelnutz]

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[outlander]

How big are the holes? I mean if you're wanting to make domes, you could just look it up online, or go to your local hobby store. They have plastic domes, or look for cabochons somewhere. You can mold it from just about anything, but sulpher free clay is the best way to go with this one. You can use it around silicone rubber, and polyurethane resin without any problems.

[TazMan2000]

I have EnviroTex Lite bi-part resin, and I'm wondering if there's a way to make a quick and dirty resin cast of a model part. Perhaps using Super Scupey as a mold.

I'd like to make clear domes for my 1/2500 Romulan Bird of Prey, and there's also a ladder-pattern on the engine of a 1/1000 Klingon BOP that I'd like to duplicate so I can add missing detail on the kit.

Thanks in advance for a any tips!

Short answer. Yes you can. Just be careful when you press in and remove your parts from the clay. But, like you say...it's quick and dirty.

TazMan2000