Painting on highlighter / marker plastic

This is the place to get answers about painting, weathering and other aspects of finishing a model.

Moderators: DasPhule, Moderators

Post Reply
CarlGo
Posts: 765
Joined: Thu Jul 05, 2012 11:30 am

Painting on highlighter / marker plastic

Post by CarlGo »

Hi all,

Kind of a weird question but does anyone know what kind of plastic highlighters are made of, and what paint would apply well to that kind of material? I want to attempt a Springfield-class build and according to this article the nacelles were made from "Stabilo" highlighter markers.
"What do you want, you moon-faced assassin of joy?"
--Londo Mollari

"There's coffee in that nebula."
--Kathryn Janeway
User avatar
Kylwell
Moderator
Posts: 29650
Joined: Sun Nov 02, 2003 9:25 pm
Location: Lakewood, CO
Contact:

Post by Kylwell »

The most common plastics are styrene, abs & acrylic for pens. All respond well to the usual run of paints. But, w/o having that particular pen I couldn't tell you exactly.
Abolish Alliteration
sbaxter
Posts: 6851
Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 3:42 pm
Location: Tallahassee, Florida

Post by sbaxter »

Considering the unknown composition of the plastic, it might be good to first coat it with some of the "Adhesion Promoter" sold with the spray paint at stores such as AutoZone or Pep Boys.

Qapla'

SSB
“The entire concept of pessimism crumbles the moment one human being puts aside thoughts of self and reaches out to another to minister to her suffering. The experience of either person can neither be denied nor adequately explained by a negative philosophy.”
-- Michael J. Nelson, Mike Nelson's Mind over Matters
User avatar
Lt. Z0mBe
Posts: 7311
Joined: Thu May 29, 2003 1:46 pm
Location: Balltown Kentucky, by God!
Contact:

Post by Lt. Z0mBe »

sbaxter wrote:Considering the unknown composition of the plastic, it might be good to first coat it with some of the "Adhesion Promoter" sold with the spray paint at stores such as AutoZone or Pep Boys.

Qapla'

SSB
I've used a lot of pens and markers over the years. I would try sbaxter's approach (or use a "hot" automobile primer) and add two more quick steps prior to spraying: 1.) Lightly wet sand the piece with some 400- or 600-grit paper, and 2.) wash it with some dish soap and a toothbrush.

I hope this helps.

Kenny

www.sigmalabsinc.com


Onward, proud eagle, to thee the cloud must yield.
User avatar
Kylwell
Moderator
Posts: 29650
Joined: Sun Nov 02, 2003 9:25 pm
Location: Lakewood, CO
Contact:

Post by Kylwell »

I'll typically test on an unseen area. If Tenax or ProWeld affect it, it's ABS or styrene. If CA grabs hold it's acrylic. If neither affect it go with a hot primer or adhesion promoter and hope.
Abolish Alliteration
sbaxter
Posts: 6851
Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 3:42 pm
Location: Tallahassee, Florida

Post by sbaxter »

Kylwell wrote:I'll typically test on an unseen area. If Tenax or ProWeld affect it, it's ABS or styrene. If CA grabs hold it's acrylic. If neither affect it go with a hot primer or adhesion promoter and hope.
That's a good idea. I don't yet have enough experience with adhesion promoter to say that if you use it on something like styrene (where it isn't necessary, of course), that it wouldn't make a less effective bond with paint than you'd get if you went without it.

Qapla'

SSB
“The entire concept of pessimism crumbles the moment one human being puts aside thoughts of self and reaches out to another to minister to her suffering. The experience of either person can neither be denied nor adequately explained by a negative philosophy.”
-- Michael J. Nelson, Mike Nelson's Mind over Matters
srspicer
Posts: 960
Joined: Sat Sep 08, 2007 8:01 am
Location: Pennsylvania
Contact:

Post by srspicer »

What I usually do is apply a good etch primer, automotive. Very light coats, you don''t want the primer to melt the plastic.

I would do the usual perp-work, strip the labels with coleman fuel, clean with soap & water & paper towel. Apply your primer next.

Images pls! :D
Post Reply