Monostable multivibrator problems
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- MillenniumFalsehood
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Monostable multivibrator problems
So I'm trying to get a strobe light working using a 556 chip. I have the A side wired up as an astable multivibrator, and it functions just fine if I'm interpreting my meter right (~10v on, 0v off on the output pin, at the correct frequency). The B side of the chip is wired up as a monostable multivibrator, but for some reason the LED that is connected to it is glowing solidly instead of blinking. Any idea what might be causing this?
Component values:
Resistor RA1: 82K
Resistor RA2: 82K
Capacitor CA1: 10uF
Resistor RB1: 12K
Capacitor CB1: 22uF
Component values:
Resistor RA1: 82K
Resistor RA2: 82K
Capacitor CA1: 10uF
Resistor RB1: 12K
Capacitor CB1: 22uF
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- MillenniumFalsehood
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The astable side is wired up like this: http://www.circuitstoday.com/wp-content ... brator.jpg
Then the output is connected to the trigger on the monostable side, which is wired like this: http://www.circuitstoday.com/wp-content ... brator.jpg
I've checked the wiring on both sides a hundred times. There are no shorts and the wiring is exactly as done in the diagrams.
Then the output is connected to the trigger on the monostable side, which is wired like this: http://www.circuitstoday.com/wp-content ... brator.jpg
I've checked the wiring on both sides a hundred times. There are no shorts and the wiring is exactly as done in the diagrams.
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- Richard Baker
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- SpaceRanger1
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- MillenniumFalsehood
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You two should have been in class the day the teacher introduced us to the monostable and astable multivibrator... Every single person in class was making... inappropriate jokes.
If a redhead works at a bakery, does that make him a gingerbread man?
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What strobe pattern is it you want to reproduce MF - single flash??
So if its just a single flash strobe you want to produce, then a single 555 could do the job.
R1 = 15k,
R2 = 220k,
C1 = 10uF
and a signal diode (say a 1N4001) across R2 would give you 0.1 sec high (on), 1.5 sec low (off) cycle
As a matter of interest, I made a whole bunch of boards using a 556 to produce both regular nav light flashing from one side and strobe effect from the other. Problem was that 50% of the circuits behaved in much the same way as your circuit does - one half the chip seemed to "lock-up". Not sure why, but it convinced me to use a ATTiny processor instead. Much better control over the flash rates (including double flashing) and other effects as well!
So if its just a single flash strobe you want to produce, then a single 555 could do the job.
R1 = 15k,
R2 = 220k,
C1 = 10uF
and a signal diode (say a 1N4001) across R2 would give you 0.1 sec high (on), 1.5 sec low (off) cycle
As a matter of interest, I made a whole bunch of boards using a 556 to produce both regular nav light flashing from one side and strobe effect from the other. Problem was that 50% of the circuits behaved in much the same way as your circuit does - one half the chip seemed to "lock-up". Not sure why, but it convinced me to use a ATTiny processor instead. Much better control over the flash rates (including double flashing) and other effects as well!
WiredFX
Small Lighting and Effects UK
Small Lighting and Effects UK
- MillenniumFalsehood
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Thanks for values. I think I have all those components other than the signal diode. Do you have a circuit diagram for how the components are configured? I cared about imitating the precise lengths of how long the flash was versus frequency, hence using both an astable and a monostable to accomplish this (they were the only ones I could find reliable frequency and duration formulas for). But I think at this point I'd rather just call it done and move on to my own projects.Sloucher wrote:What strobe pattern is it you want to reproduce MF - single flash??
So if its just a single flash strobe you want to produce, then a single 555 could do the job.
R1 = 15k,
R2 = 220k,
C1 = 10uF
and a signal diode (say a 1N4001) across R2 would give you 0.1 sec high (on), 1.5 sec low (off) cycle
As a matter of interest, I made a whole bunch of boards using a 556 to produce both regular nav light flashing from one side and strobe effect from the other. Problem was that 50% of the circuits behaved in much the same way as your circuit does - one half the chip seemed to "lock-up". Not sure why, but it convinced me to use a ATTiny processor instead. Much better control over the flash rates (including double flashing) and other effects as well!
I'd use a programmable chip, but for the fact that I suck at programming at the moment. I'll learn it eventually, but solid state CMOS chips work just fine for the moment for all the special effects I want to do.
If a redhead works at a bakery, does that make him a gingerbread man?
Ponies defeat a Star Trek villain? Give them a Star Wars award ceremony!
Ponies defeat a Star Trek villain? Give them a Star Wars award ceremony!
You've already seen the circuit
Its this one:
http://www.circuitstoday.com/wp-content ... brator.jpg
Note the addition of the diode across Rb (shown with a dashed line in that diagram)
There's some useful info here on how to calculate the values you want more accurately:
http://www.doctronics.co.uk/555.htm#astable
Have a look at section 4.1 Extended duty cycle astable
Hope that helps
BTW, learning how to program a microprocessor isn't that bad really. I mean, if I can do it, then it must be simple They're also small - I produce an effects board that is just 1 3/4" by 1 1/4" that has 8 different programmable outputs and three inputs. It only has 5 components and 3 of those are for voltage regulation!
Its this one:
http://www.circuitstoday.com/wp-content ... brator.jpg
Note the addition of the diode across Rb (shown with a dashed line in that diagram)
There's some useful info here on how to calculate the values you want more accurately:
http://www.doctronics.co.uk/555.htm#astable
Have a look at section 4.1 Extended duty cycle astable
Hope that helps
BTW, learning how to program a microprocessor isn't that bad really. I mean, if I can do it, then it must be simple They're also small - I produce an effects board that is just 1 3/4" by 1 1/4" that has 8 different programmable outputs and three inputs. It only has 5 components and 3 of those are for voltage regulation!
WiredFX
Small Lighting and Effects UK
Small Lighting and Effects UK
- MillenniumFalsehood
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Heheh, yeah, I know... I'm just putting it off because let's face it, laziness is the mother of invention. I do intend to learn how to program them, though. I have the intention, when I can afford the sheer amount of materials it would cost to build it, to build an AT-AT that is remote controlled and I'll need micro-controllers to coordinate the legs and interpret the sensor data. I just don't need to now because everything I need to do electronically can be accomplished by an IC and a few discreet components.
Lol, now I understand what you're talking about. XD I think I was just really tired when I asked that... But thanks for the link to that page, though! There's a lot of helpful information there.
Lol, now I understand what you're talking about. XD I think I was just really tired when I asked that... But thanks for the link to that page, though! There's a lot of helpful information there.
If a redhead works at a bakery, does that make him a gingerbread man?
Ponies defeat a Star Trek villain? Give them a Star Wars award ceremony!
Ponies defeat a Star Trek villain? Give them a Star Wars award ceremony!
- Pat Amaral
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I learned a huge amount of stuff from this thread
and the links within.
http://www.starshipmodeler.net/talk/vie ... hp?t=62848
It took me just a couple days to figure out everything I
needed.
And the controller boards cost just a few bucks!
and the links within.
http://www.starshipmodeler.net/talk/vie ... hp?t=62848
It took me just a couple days to figure out everything I
needed.
And the controller boards cost just a few bucks!
Pat A.
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50% Nerd, 50% Geek, 100% Cool
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50% Nerd, 50% Geek, 100% Cool