Hey all. I'm in a position where all my local hobby stores have closed up around me, and my only options to buy paint locally are through the bigger box stores.
Has anyone used the craft paint (normally in a squeeze bottle) on their model kits before? I'm curious if anyone knows how well it ages or reacts with a primer base coat or sealer.
Obviously I'm thinking of testing before using it on any kits, but I was curious if anyone else has gone down this route before or has any experience with this type of paint. Thanks!
Craft Paint on Model Kits?
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Any brand in particular?? Because I've been using different brand craft store paint for the past 20 years, all of them are acrylic based, from local craft stores such as Craft Wearhouse and Michaels but non from a squeeze tube. Any way I've even mixed them with Model master acrylics with no problems. The only problem I've had was when I went and tried to thin a color to run through my air brush, got the paint too thin.
Normal?? What is normal??
- Lt. Z0mBe
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Re: Craft Paint on Model Kits?
For airbrushing tips, check out the "Frugal Airbrusher" thread in this forum. For brushing them on, I just add a bit of distilled water and/or Future floor polish. I too live a ways out of the way and can't always be running to a hobby shop or waiting on a delivery from Ebay. For the record, thinned properly, it works like a charm. I use them on every build in some fashion or another.nac359 wrote:Hey all. I'm in a position where all my local hobby stores have closed up around me, and my only options to buy paint locally are through the bigger box stores.
Has anyone used the craft paint (normally in a squeeze bottle) on their model kits before? I'm curious if anyone knows how well it ages or reacts with a primer base coat or sealer.
Obviously I'm thinking of testing before using it on any kits, but I was curious if anyone else has gone down this route before or has any experience with this type of paint. Thanks!
I hope this helps.
Kenny
- TurkeyVolumeGuessingMan
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I've used Delta Ceramcoat paints on figures. For hand-painting, they work great and auto-level very well. Jerry at HDA Modelworx thins these craft store paints with Future and has hand-brushed with fantastic results. He's been slowly working on the AMT cut-away Millenium Falcon and he hand-brushed the interior using such craft paints.
I could never figure out how to get Delta Ceramcoat paints to work in an airbrush, though.
I could never figure out how to get Delta Ceramcoat paints to work in an airbrush, though.
Greg
Plastic modeling and other nerd stuff in Japan on my YouTube channel
My WIP modeling page on Tumblr.
One day I was walking and I found this big log. Then I rolled the log over and underneath was a tiny little stick. And I was like, "That log had a child!"
Plastic modeling and other nerd stuff in Japan on my YouTube channel
My WIP modeling page on Tumblr.
One day I was walking and I found this big log. Then I rolled the log over and underneath was a tiny little stick. And I was like, "That log had a child!"
I use craft paints exclusively (well, spray paint too, but rarely on models), and they work great. For airbrushing you have to make sure they're fresh (no goobers) and it helps if you strain your mix when you put it in the airbrush. Since I've never used model paints I can't compare the process, but with craft paint you need it super thin, like skim milk.
-Rog
-Rog
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I've airbrushed Ceramcoat by thinning it heavily with Windex (or equal), ag Rogviler mentions it has to be very thin.
And do not try to thin it with rubbing alcohol, it just balls up, must have latex in it.
I find it must go over a light base and requires 6 or more thin coats to build up the color density. If you make a mistake like a spatter or blob you can't sand it out, you have to strip it and start over.
That said it can work when you're looking for an out of the bottle match for a project but it doesn't behave like Tamiya acrylics or any enamels you've sprayed.
Ken
And do not try to thin it with rubbing alcohol, it just balls up, must have latex in it.
I find it must go over a light base and requires 6 or more thin coats to build up the color density. If you make a mistake like a spatter or blob you can't sand it out, you have to strip it and start over.
That said it can work when you're looking for an out of the bottle match for a project but it doesn't behave like Tamiya acrylics or any enamels you've sprayed.
Ken
Lots of good YouTube videos out there on the subject.
I sprayed both black and yellow colors through my airbrush without much problems. Seemed to get dry tip more often if memory serves. I thinned them with Testors thinner and future. The future helps give the paint a harder finish when cured in my experience. If not the paint rubs off rather easily on plastic and resin.
I sprayed both black and yellow colors through my airbrush without much problems. Seemed to get dry tip more often if memory serves. I thinned them with Testors thinner and future. The future helps give the paint a harder finish when cured in my experience. If not the paint rubs off rather easily on plastic and resin.
That really was a Hattori Hanzo sword.
Thanks for all the feedback guys.
I especially appreciate the recommendations on the different ways of thinning it out. I ended up using some acrylic paint by Folkart and it came out of the bottle like tar. So thinning it was a bit more of an extensive process then what you get with Testors, etc... but so far so good!
I especially appreciate the recommendations on the different ways of thinning it out. I ended up using some acrylic paint by Folkart and it came out of the bottle like tar. So thinning it was a bit more of an extensive process then what you get with Testors, etc... but so far so good!
- Lt. Z0mBe
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Again, check out the Frugal Airbrusher thread.nac359 wrote:Thanks for all the feedback guys.
I especially appreciate the recommendations on the different ways of thinning it out. I ended up using some acrylic paint by Folkart and it came out of the bottle like tar. So thinning it was a bit more of an extensive process then what you get with Testors, etc... but so far so good!
Kenny