Decal Silvering (After gloss/micro SOL/SET)

[SJM]

Anyone still have silvering issues AFTER taking correct steps?

Have a R2 Excelsior model, decals went down fine and looked good after using the setting solutions, even during gloss coat phase they looked fine. But when I applied the dull coat there was all this reflective film over most of my decal surfaces. They only appear at an angle but it's there! I used plently of gloss coats before I applied decals so the surface should have been OK. Only thing I can think of is not having a wet surface on the model when appying the decal, I DO wet the surface only with Micro SOL (the blue one) Thats the only thing I could think of that's causing this - happened on my last two/three models!

May have to apply a gloss again and leave it slightly glossy as that's when the effect is less apparent

Any ideas?

[jpolacchi]

Silvering typically happens if you apply a decal to a rough or unglossed surface.There could be other problems,but as I recall,that's how silvering occurs.You need a glossed over polished surface to apply them.Perhaps someone else with more decal application experience will comment.Sorry I don't have more advice.Perhaps the decals didn't settle and lay down and got "air" under them,but that doesn't seem to be the case.

[admiralcag]

Only thing I can think of is not having a wet surface on the model when appying the decal, I DO wet the surface only with Micro SOL (the blue one) Thats the only thing I could think of that's causing this - happened on my last two/three models!

Micro Set is the blue bottle. It is a wetting agent and slightly softens the decal. It should be followed by Micro Sol, which is the red bottle. This will get the decal to snuggle down and eliminate silvering.

What you can do now is to pierce your decals with a pin or carefully slice them with a sharp knife, especially where the decal is silvered. Apply Micro Sol to the decal. The cuts allow Micro Sol under the decal. Let it dry overnight.

Bon Chance!

Vern

[jpolacchi]

I hope that works.I don't build allot of kits that utilize allot of decals,so I'm certainly "no pro" at applying water slide decals. I've heard that the "dry rub down" decals are better(although they may cost more?).I am not sure.

[TazMan2000]

Jpolacchi is correct. I either paint my model in gloss, apply the decals and spray again with DullCote, or, just paint the area where the decal will go in a Clear Gloss, apply the decal the overcoat the area with DullCote. Works like a charm.

TazMan2000

[SJM]

Thanks. I did end up using a sharp knife to pierce the clear coats and applied the SET, the effect improved slightly.

I've very puzzled because the surface was glossy and I've been doing this for years...very odd! May have to just live with it, the effect can only be seen from extreme angles.

[admiralcag]

To be clear, you want to use the SOL (red bottle). This is the secret sauce that makes it work.

Vern

[SJM]

Opps I meant the RED one. ^

[admiralcag]

Hmmm... Round2 decals?

[SJM]

Yup

[admiralcag]

Dang. Have you considered Solvaset?

Vern

[EVApodman]

Sometimes you just have a poor decal that will silver no matter how you prep it.

Silvering occurs when there is a tiny gap, maybe only 1/10,000" or less between the decal and the model that distorts the reflected light. A smooth glossy surface on the model can help prevent this compared the rough surface of a dull or matte finish.

One thing I've tried with older decals that have fallen off or loosened after applying, is to brush on a small amount of Future onto the surface, re-apply the decal and then brush some more over it to seal it in securely, then removing all excess. The Future is being used as a clear adhesive.